2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
Hi All,

I have a 2016.5 Mazda Cx5 with 63k miles and I was planning on doing a transmission drain and fill along with replacing the transmission filter but I just had a few questions:

1. How long do you need to wait for the Silicone to cure or dry before putting the pan back on? I asked my dealer what type of RTV they used and they mentioned Mazda Rtv Silicone 0000-77-1217-ES.

1a. Can you torque the bolts on criss cross pattern after it dries or do you need to wait "x" amount of time?

1b. Is the best way to apply the sealant in a straight line with no breaks or can I just apply it and spread it evenly? I know it'll compress anyways but just wanted to know the best method.

2. How do you clean off the RTV sealant on mounting surfaces of the pan? I saw that some people recommended scotch bright but then others said that the dust wouldn't mix well with the transmission and it would cause contamination.

3. How do you clean off any residue or crud left inside the oil pan? I saw people using brake fluid but wouldn't that leave behind some residue? Can anyone confirm if brake cleaner is safe?

4. My manual recommends to wait until the temperature reaches 122F, but what if my car goes beyond that temperature? I know it has something to do with the fluid rising.

5.. Couldn't I just drain the fluid when the car is off and then pour the exact same amount back in using a measuring glass?

6. Is the best way to measure the ATF temperature using an OBD II tool?

Please let me know if there's any other tips/advice.

Thank you
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
There have been many discussions here about ATF change, but I haven’t seen anyone did the AT filter cartridge change and post his detailed experience here. Here are several threads related to ATF change and you can read them and find your answers there.

ATF Drain/Fill Docs

ATF Drain/Fill

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

Anyone found an OBD2 phone app that will read transmission fluid temp?

You’ll see how this guy did it applying the RTV to the ATF pan @6:25 mark.

I definitely won’t use brake cleaner to clean off any residue or crud left inside the oil pan. Are you going to pour in brake cleaner into the ATF fill-hole to clean the inside after you installed the ATF pan? What is going to happen on those loose residue or crud cleaned off from inside?

All these worries about applying RTV to form a good ATF pan gasket is the main reason people are hesitate to change the ATF filter cartridge. And the ATF filter cartridge should be fairly clean based on a few reports who did the filter change at more than 100,000 miles.

My suggestion is you do the ATF drain-and-fill without filter change at 63K miles. This is good enough and forget about the filter cartridge change at this time. Do 2 ~ 3 rounds of drain-and-fill if you want to.

And never just drain the ATF and then pour the exact same amount back in. The reason? Those who bothered to check the factory ATF level before the drain-and-fill, all have found the ATF was under-filled from factory!
 
:
2013 Mazda CX-5 Sport FWD Auto
Hi All,

I have a 2016.5 Mazda Cx5 with 63k miles and I was planning on doing a transmission drain and fill along with replacing the transmission filter but I just had a few questions:

1. How long do you need to wait for the Silicone to cure or dry before putting the pan back on? I asked my dealer what type of RTV they used and they mentioned Mazda Rtv Silicone 0000-77-1217-ES.

1a. Can you torque the bolts on criss cross pattern after it dries or do you need to wait "x" amount of time?

1b. Is the best way to apply the sealant in a straight line with no breaks or can I just apply it and spread it evenly? I know it'll compress anyways but just wanted to know the best method.

2. How do you clean off the RTV sealant on mounting surfaces of the pan? I saw that some people recommended scotch bright but then others said that the dust wouldn't mix well with the transmission and it would cause contamination.

3. How do you clean off any residue or crud left inside the oil pan? I saw people using brake fluid but wouldn't that leave behind some residue? Can anyone confirm if brake cleaner is safe?

4. My manual recommends to wait until the temperature reaches 122F, but what if my car goes beyond that temperature? I know it has something to do with the fluid rising.

5.. Couldn't I just drain the fluid when the car is off and then pour the exact same amount back in using a measuring glass?

6. Is the best way to measure the ATF temperature using an OBD II tool?

Please let me know if there's any other tips/advice.

Thank you

I agree with Yrwei, I wouldn’t bother changing the filter this time.
 
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2014 mazda cx-5 touring FWD
I wouldn't change the filter yet either.I may do mine around 90k-100k miles.If you're concerned you could attach a few strong magnets to the underside of the tranny pan.I think there is only one (which is normal) inside the pan.
 
:
2016 Mazda, CX-5 GT
I did a drain and fill at 50K, 75K and then pulled the pan and changed the filter at 105K. From memory I got about 3.5 or so quarts on the drain and fills out. When I pulled the pan and then the old filter and let it drain overnight I think I got closer to 6 quarts. I got the filter from Rock Auto and it had a new pan gasket.
 
:
16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
There have been many discussions here about ATF change, but I haven’t seen anyone did the AT filter cartridge change and post his detailed experience here. Here are several threads related to ATF change and you can read them and find your answers there.

ATF Drain/Fill Docs

ATF Drain/Fill

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

Anyone found an OBD2 phone app that will read transmission fluid temp?

You’ll see how this guy did it applying the RTV to the ATF pan @6:25 mark.

I definitely won’t use brake cleaner to clean off any residue or crud left inside the oil pan. Are you going to pour in brake cleaner into the ATF fill-hole to clean the inside after you installed the ATF pan? What is going to happen on those loose residue or crud cleaned off from inside?

  1. All these worries about applying RTV to form a good ATF pan gasket is the main reason people are hesitate to change the ATF filter cartridge. And the ATF filter cartridge should be fairly clean based on a few reports who did the filter change at more than 100,000 miles.

My suggestion is you do the ATF drain-and-fill without filter change at 63K miles. This is good enough and forget about the filter cartridge change at this time. Do 2 ~ 3 rounds of drain-and-fill if you want to.

And never just drain the ATF and then pour the exact same amount back in. The reason? Those who bothered to check the factory ATF level before the drain-and-fill, all have found the ATF was under-filled from factory!

Thank you for the links! I went through a few of the threads you posted and I see that it is pretty much impossible to flush the transmission since there's no inlet/outlet lines leading from the transmission to the cooler but in my service manual there appear to be an oil cooler with an inlet/outlet that's mounted onto the transmission but it has nothing to do with the automatic transmission I think? I did some more reading and it appears that the drain and fill method only removes 30-40% of the fluid and I don't know how effective doing this 2-3 times would be and I rather do it correctly the first time so I was thinking of alternative ways to do a flush to get rid of 90-95% of the fluids.

Would it be possible to use a long slim tube and then insert it inside the transmission dipstick and siphon out all of the transmission fluid, drop the pan and drain the rest? Not sure if this is a possible thing to do but might work?

I did some more research on the RTV gasket, it doesn't seem too hard to perform after knowing the instructions and what it entails. It's simply just applying RTV in a straight line, going around the bolt holes and making sure that there's enough to prevent leakage.

I also watched a few dozen videos on YouTube about the transmission pan drop and in most of the videos I saw, there's a lot of crud and other buildup on the transmission pan itself and also the magnet so I was thinking it would be a good idea to drop the pan, clean it up and make it look nice and take a look at the condition of everything. I agree with that last part about not pouring the same amount back in so I purchased a 12 quart food container with the measurements on the side.

In addition, I saw that most people recommended replacing the transmission pan bolts and I purchased those as well. If anyone is interested, here are the part numbers for the items that I've purchased. Hopefully it makes it easier for anyone else reading (Item/Mazda Part#):
  1. Transmission Pan Bolts: 9YA0-10-615A
  2. Transmission Filter Bolts: 9945-40-616
  3. Automatic Transmission Fluid Type FZ: 0000-FZ-113E-01
  4. Automatic Transmission Filter/Strainer: FZ01-21-500
  5. Oil/Transmission Drain Plug Gasket: 9956-41-400
  6. OEM RTV Silicone Gasket Maker: 0000-77-1217-ES
For #6, I opted to go for Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV Sealant (3 oz.) instead because I wasn't able to see the instructions on the OEM RTV packaging such as how long to let it cure for and other details like the maximum temperature that the RTV is rated for.
 
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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
I did a drain and fill at 50K, 75K and then pulled the pan and changed the filter at 105K. From memory I got about 3.5 or so quarts on the drain and fills out. When I pulled the pan and then the old filter and let it drain overnight I think I got closer to 6 quarts. I got the filter from Rock Auto and it had a new pan gasket.

How was the condition of your fluid at 50 and 75k? I see that there's approximately 8.2 quarts for the ATF fluid so 6 quarts would be about 73%. I just wish it would be possible to do it all at once with a flush.

Do you think if you let it sit for another day, it may have drained the full ~8.2 quarts?

1599282773952.png
 
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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
I agree with Yrwei, I wouldn’t bother changing the filter this time.

I'm just extremely OCD haha. To me, this is very similar to doing an oil change but if I wasn't changing the filter as well, I feel like I'm not doing the job 100% correctly. Might be a waste of money but I guess I can sleep better at night knowing it's fresh :LOL:
 
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2016 Mazda, CX-5 GT
I think 6 quarts was it for what would drain out. I would not do a power flush. Puts a lot of stress on the seals. The fluid was a brown color when I changed it. There were no particles in the tranny pan when I pulled it which was good.
 
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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
I think 6 quarts was it for what would drain out. I would not do a power flush. Puts a lot of stress on the seals. The fluid was a brown color when I changed it. There were no particles in the tranny pan when I pulled it which was good.

I wasn't planning to do a power flush, maybe something along the lines of using one of the cooler inlet hoses and a bucket but since I read that the CX-5 doesn't even have that, then maybe I could get a syringe or a manually powered suction tool to extract the fluid?

Do you drive aggressive or are you more on the light footed side? Not sure if this would cause more or less shavings but I figure it would.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Thank you for the links! I went through a few of the threads you posted and I see that it is pretty much impossible to flush the transmission since there's no inlet/outlet lines leading from the transmission to the cooler but in my service manual there appear to be an oil cooler with an inlet/outlet that's mounted onto the transmission but it has nothing to do with the automatic transmission I think? I did some more reading and it appears that the drain and fill method only removes 30-40% of the fluid and I don't know how effective doing this 2-3 times would be and I rather do it correctly the first time so I was thinking of alternative ways to do a flush to get rid of 90-95% of the fluids.
For SkyActiv-Drive transmission an ATF cooler is piggybacked to the transmission. The difference comparing to other automatic transmission is Mazda pulls engine coolant into the ATF cooler to cool down the ATF which is also circulating into the ATF cooler "internally". Two lines attached to ATF cooler outside are engine coolant instead of ATF lines circulating out into an external ATF cooler found on most other vehicles. The commercial fluid exchange machine relies on those external ATF lines to intercept fluid and replace with fresh fluid. Since SkyActiv-Drive transmission doesn't have that, thus the fluid exchanger is useless for the purpose of ATF exchange or flush. Unless the Mazda dealer uses a special ATF cooler adapter, which is rare and is not approved by Mazda, with additional ATF inlet and outlet hence they can be hook up by the fluid exchanger.

Would it be possible to use a long slim tube and then insert it inside the transmission dipstick and siphon out all of the transmission fluid, drop the pan and drain the rest? Not sure if this is a possible thing to do but might work?
Even if you do that, you still can't get about a half of the AFT out because the AFT inside of torque converter and valve body will be staying in there, you simply just can't suck them out or drain them out.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
How was the condition of your fluid at 50 and 75k? I see that there's approximately 8.2 quarts for the ATF fluid so 6 quarts would be about 73%. I just wish it would be possible to do it all at once with a flush.

Do you think if you let it sit for another day, it may have drained the full ~8.2 quarts?

View attachment 226808
Even if you let the CX-5 sit for several days, you still can only drain about 3.5 ~ 4.0 quarts of old ATF out based on member's reports here. There's no way you can drain the full ~8.2 quarts out. Those ATF staying inside of the torque converter, valve body, and some on the ATF pan due to the drain is not flush with the pan, can't never be drained out through the drain hole. With fluid exchanger, transmission has to be running letting the ATF pump to circulate out through the ATF line and into the exchanger, then feed the fresh ATF back into the transmission. Notice that this process still would mix fresh ATF with old ATF inside of the transmission during the circulation, in essence this is a bit similar to the process of doing drain-and-fill multiple times. Since each drain-and-fill should replace about a half of the ATF, doing it twice should make about 75% content of fresh fluid, doing it 3 times should make about 87.5% content of fresh fluid. Even if you do it once with 50% fresh Mazda ATF FZ fluid, it's still better than not to change it like Mazda recommended.

The video in post #2 showed he drained 4,200 cc / 4.438 quarts with pan drop and filter cartridge change. And the ATF pan cork gasket available from after-market has its drawbacks. It requires re-torque the pan bolts from time to time, or it's prone to leak. That's why most transmission now switched to RTV to form the ATF pan gasket, so as the engine oil pan.
 
:
16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
For SkyActiv-Drive transmission an ATF cooler is piggybacked to the transmission. The difference comparing to other automatic transmission is Mazda pulls engine coolant into the ATF cooler to cool down the ATF which is also circulating into the ATF cooler "internally". Two lines attached to ATF cooler outside are engine coolant instead of ATF lines circulating out into an external ATF cooler found on most other vehicles. The commercial fluid exchange machine relies on those external ATF lines to intercept fluid and replace with fresh fluid. Since SkyActiv-Drive transmission doesn't have that, thus the fluid exchanger is useless for the purpose of ATF exchange or flush. Unless the Mazda dealer uses a special ATF cooler adapter, which is rare and is not approved by Mazda, with additional ATF inlet and outlet hence they can be hook up by the fluid exchanger.


Even if you do that, you still can't get about a half of the AFT out because the AFT inside of torque converter and valve body will be staying in there, you simply just can't suck them out or drain them out.

1599334824374.png


I saw this transmission adapter on another thread that was posted a while ago. Out of curiosity, how would this be any different from using the "Round Transmission Cooler" which Mazda refers to it as the "Oil Cooler" aside from the fact that it is considered an adapter and it's machine serviceable? It seems to go into the exact same mounting ports. Not sure if anyone has purchased and used this either...


Even if you let the CX-5 sit for several days, you still can only drain about 3.5 ~ 4.0 quarts of old ATF out based on member's reports here. There's no way you can drain the full ~8.2 quarts out. Those ATF staying inside of the torque converter, valve body, and some on the ATF pan due to the drain is not flush with the pan, can't never be drained out through the drain hole. With fluid exchanger, transmission has to be running letting the ATF pump to circulate out through the ATF line and into the exchanger, then feed the fresh ATF back into the transmission. Notice that this process still would mix fresh ATF with old ATF inside of the transmission during the circulation, in essence this is a bit similar to the process of doing drain-and-fill multiple times. Since each drain-and-fill should replace about a half of the ATF, doing it twice should make about 75% content of fresh fluid, doing it 3 times should make about 87.5% content of fresh fluid. Even if you do it once with 50% fresh Mazda ATF FZ fluid, it's still better than not to change it like Mazda recommended.

The video in post #2 showed he drained 4,200 cc / 4.438 quarts with pan drop and filter cartridge change. And the ATF pan cork gasket available from after-market has its drawbacks. It requires re-torque the pan bolts from time to time, or it's prone to leak. That's why most transmission now switched to RTV to form the ATF pan gasket, so as the engine oil pan.

I guess if you put it that way, the drain and fill + pan drop doesn't seem so bad. Maybe an alternative would be to drain 1 quart at a time through the dipstick and pour in exactly 1 quart, drive the car and repeat? There seems to be so many different answers regarding the transmission flush/change with some saying that if it's burnt, then it's probably too late to do a flush and if you were to do a complete flush or pan drop, you might cause some debris or dirt to get stuck somewhere it shouldn't.
 
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2013 Mazda CX-5 Sport FWD Auto
I think there’s a lot of overthinking here. Change the transmission fluid like you would an oil change. Unscrew the drain plug, drain. Replace plug, fill, drive to mix. Repeat 2 more times. After the third drain, remove the pan, replace filter, reinstall pan. Fill, done!

if for some reason you don’t want to remove the shroud to drain the fluid, you can suck the fluid out through the dipstick instead of draining through the pan. I don’t think anybody has tried the adapter due to cost and extra effort. It might be worth it for a shop that does this all the time but for something you’ll do once every 4 years? Just drain and fill.
 
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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
I think there’s a lot of overthinking here. Change the transmission fluid like you would an oil change. Unscrew the drain plug, drain. Replace plug, fill, drive to mix. Repeat 2 more times. After the third drain, remove the pan, replace filter, reinstall pan. Fill, done!

if for some reason you don’t want to remove the shroud to drain the fluid, you can suck the fluid out through the dipstick instead of draining through the pan. I don’t think anybody has tried the adapter due to cost and extra effort. It might be worth it for a shop that does this all the time but for something you’ll do once every 4 years? Just drain and fill.

You make a good point, I think I am definitely overthinking this but I just wanted a method where I can do it all in one go without having to go under the car multiple times, rinse and repeat the same procedure but I guess it's not possible. Oh well, I'll just give up and do the drain and fill procedure. I bought 9 quarts for $10.88/bottle so I'm thinking I'll only do this twice with the second time with the pan dropped and cleaned with the filter replaced. When I pick up my parts from Mazda and perform this task, I'll make sure to take pics/vids so you guys can critique :)

Kinda wish I read about the ATF fluid replacement sooner because the manual didn't mention anything about it and I do want to keep the car for a long time. Only issue so far with the car is the seats kinda suck and the heater smells like a$$ every winter.
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
View attachment 226809

I saw this transmission adapter on another thread that was posted a while ago. Out of curiosity, how would this be any different from using the "Round Transmission Cooler" which Mazda refers to it as the "Oil Cooler" aside from the fact that it is considered an adapter and it's machine serviceable? It seems to go into the exact same mounting ports. Not sure if anyone has purchased and used this either...
The ATF cooler adapter plate you saw has 2 ports. But don’t get confused with these 2 ports on ATF cooler. These 2 ports on adapter plate is the ATF outlet and inlet ports instead engine coolant ports found on ATF cooler. The ATF pump does feed ATF into the ATF cooler from inside of transmission to cool down the circulating fluid by engine coolant. The adapter plate provides ATF ports which are not available on ATF cooler to let fluid exchanger hooking up and exchanging the ATF. While doing that, you just let ATF cooler hang to the side by the engine coolant lines with transmission running.

I guess if you put it that way, the drain and fill + pan drop doesn't seem so bad. Maybe an alternative would be to drain 1 quart at a time through the dipstick and pour in exactly 1 quart, drive the car and repeat?
Why do you want to extract old ATF through the dipstick hole? Drain the ATF through the drain hole to promote more tiny debris or dirt if any coming out with old fluid as those usually will stay at the bottom of the pan. If you’re draining old ATF through dipstick hole, the sucking power usually only stays at one area near the pan, which is not as effective sucking most of debris or dirt out. This’s similar to engine oil change. Some like to extract used oil out through the dipstick channel, so that they don’t need to go under the car. But how are you going to know you actually got all the oil out as the suction tube may not land at the lowest point on the pan, but the drain plug is.

The alternative, to drain 1 quart at a time through the dipstick and pour in exactly 1 quart, drive the car and repeat, would be worse than a simple drain-and-fill. Because once you pour in a quart of fresh ATF after you extracted one, it’s mixed with the rest of old ATF immediately in the pan, then your next quart extracted will contain some fresh ATF after you drive around several miles, which is definitely a waste on time and money. Not to mention it’s too much hassle. Do normal drain-and-fill, you for sure have about 3.75 quarts of old ATF drained, and the similar amount of fresh fluid been poured in.

There seems to be so many different answers regarding the transmission flush/change with some saying that if it's burnt, then it's probably too late to do a flush and if you were to do a complete flush or pan drop, you might cause some debris or dirt to get stuck somewhere it shouldn't.
Personally I’m not afraid of doing the first ATF change closer to 100,000 miles. My 1998 Honda CR-V has 75,000-mile ATF change interval recommended by the manufacture. But the risk is there as the cleaning agent in fresh ATF may wash some accumulated residue or crud off and gets stuck somewhere in the valve body, although the ATF filter should do the job to stop that.

Changing the ATF or not really depends on how long you’d like to keep the vehicle. Most people get rid of the vehicle before reaching 100,000 miles, or they’re not interested to be a DIYer, then I’d say don’t worry about changing the ATF. That’s the next person’s problem unfortunately.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
You make a good point, I think I am definitely overthinking this but I just wanted a method where I can do it all in one go without having to go under the car multiple times, rinse and repeat the same procedure but I guess it's not possible. Oh well, I'll just give up and do the drain and fill procedure. I bought 9 quarts for $10.88/bottle so I'm thinking I'll only do this twice with the second time with the pan dropped and cleaned with the filter replaced. When I pick up my parts from Mazda and perform this task, I'll make sure to take pics/vids so you guys can critique :)

Kinda wish I read about the ATF fluid replacement sooner because the manual didn't mention anything about it and I do want to keep the car for a long time. Only issue so far with the car is the seats kinda suck and the heater smells like a$$ every winter.
If I were you I’d get 4 more Mazda ATF FZ and plan to do the drain-and-fill 3 times to achieve 87.5% replacement ratio as some have mentioned this’s standard procedure stated in Honda and Toyota’s shop manuals. You’d need about 3.75 quarts ATF for the first 2 drain-and-fill’s. And the 3rd time you drop the pan、clean-up the old RTV (a tough job if you don’t want to scratch the contacting surface)、clean-up the pan and magenet、install a new filter cartridge、apply the RTV (carefully)、and put the ATF pan back with new drain plug washer. Not sure if you need to use new pan bolts. Check Mazda Factory Workshop Manual and hopefully it’ll show if you need new bolts with a “R” symbol on the diagram and the bolt tighten sequence map. Do take some picture and post a write-up. You’ll be the first one here to do this. :) Find out how much ATF you really need after the pan drop because there’s discrepancy about this, 4.438 quarts? 6 quarts? And the specs from Mazda don’t help either by providing a wide range, 3.7 ~ 5.1 quarts!

The reason why Mazda owner’s manual doesn’t say anything about ATF change is because Mazda believes it’s not necessary before their maximum CPO powertrain warranty coverage, 100,000 miles, expires. Mazda Factory Workshop Manual doesn’t say too much on this either, only mentioned ATF level check and drain-and-fill procedure.
 
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:
2016 Mazda, CX-5 GT
I wasn't planning to do a power flush, maybe something along the lines of using one of the cooler inlet hoses and a bucket but since I read that the CX-5 doesn't even have that, then maybe I could get a syringe or a manually powered suction tool to extract the fluid?

Do you drive aggressive or are you more on the light footed side? Not sure if this would cause more or less shavings but I figure it would.
We actually drive the car pretty easy most of the time. In it's 119K lifespan the first 105K miles were 80% highway. Now my wife uses the car to drive back and forth to school and it's about 30 miles a day round trip more stop and go. Still averaging 28 mpg at least on the display.
 
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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
If I were you I’d get 4 more Mazda ATF FZ and plan to do the drain-and-fill 3 times to achieve 87.5% replacement ratio as some have mentioned this’s standard procedure stated in Honda and Toyota’s shop manuals. You’d need about 3.75 quarts ATF for the first 2 drain-and-fill’s. And the 3rd time you drop the pan、clean-up the old RTV (a tough job if you don’t want to scratch the contacting surface)、clean-up the pan and magenet、install a new filter cartridge、apply the RTV (carefully)、and put the ATF pan back with new drain plug washer. Not sure if you need to use new pan bolts. Check Mazda Factory Workshop Manual and hopefully it’ll show if you need new bolts with a “R” symbol on the diagram and the bolt tighten sequence map. Do take some picture and post a write-up. You’ll be the first one here to do this. :) Find out how much ATF you really need after the pan drop because there’s discrepancy about this, 4.438 quarts? 6 quarts? And the specs from Mazda don’t help either by providing a wide range, 3.7 ~ 5.1 quarts!

The reason why Mazda owner’s manual doesn’t say anything about ATF change is because Mazda believes it’s not necessary before their maximum CPO powertrain warranty coverage, 100,000 miles, expires. Mazda Factory Workshop Manual doesn’t say too much on this either, only mentioned ATF level check and drain-and-fill procedure.

I just placed an order for (5) more quarts. I think I'm going to go broke doing this ATF change LOL... I have scotch brite, the supposedly "non-scratch" version on hand so let's see how it holds up to the claim and considering it's used on dishes and pans, Might get a putty knife or a plastic scraper as well. I think it should work fine unless I'm being too heavy handed. For the new pan bolts, I did not see anything about that being mentioned but when I was doing my research, another Mazda forum member said to use new bolts and I guess there would be a reason for that (i.e. locking washers) that can be used only once.

I couldn't see what it looks like in the YouTube tutorials but here's what it looks like.
1599399042386.png



I'll definitely do a write up and be as thorough as possible to give everyone a good idea of how much fluid is needed after the pan drop but I feel like that would vary depending on if the people at the Mazda factory were feeling generous during production day :). I didn't know that they had a 100k warranty, when I checked the Mazda site, they only mentioned 5 year/60k and yeah I'm guessing they anticipated people to just toss away their vehicles and get a new one after the warranty expires or as mentioned previously, deter people from servicing their transmission because they could screw up the RTV install process.

Mazda Warranty
 
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16.5 CX-5 Tour/AWD
We actually drive the car pretty easy most of the time. In it's 119K lifespan the first 105K miles were 80% highway. Now my wife uses the car to drive back and forth to school and it's about 30 miles a day round trip more stop and go. Still averaging 28 mpg at least on the display.

It does sound like your car has had an easy life compared to mine. I think in the first 24k miles, I was having a little too much fun and my gas mileage wasn't so great.
 

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