Guide: 2016~2021 CX-9 DIY Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill + Filter Change

:
Mazda CX-9 Signature
Items needs:
1) 8MM Hex Bit
2) Drain plug gasket ( 9956-41-400)
2) 10MM socket
3) Phillips head screwdriver
4) Loooong skinny funnel
5) Atf Type-Fz - Mazda (0000-FZ-113E-01)
Approx 5-6qt per drain

I warm the vehicle to operating temperature to get the fluid circulated before draining for 2hr. Total capacity should be 8.5qt and I drained 5qt. This is highly YMMV. Please do take into account that fluid will expand with heat.

Before you start, you can consider the following:
The fill plug sits VERY VERY low so you have two options to fill:
A) To avoid removing the airbox, you can go under the car and use a fluid pump
B) Remove the airbox and get a loooooooooooong funnel. To get an idea of how long, you can refer to my picture. With the fully extended spout + the long funnel combo, the top of the funnel was at the level of the framerail.

Steps:
1) Unscrew hose clamp (see attached picture) and decouple the intake hose from air box
2) Remove 2 10MM bolt that hold the snorkel
Be mindful of the MAF sensor harness!!!
3) Pull the entire airbox/snorkel unit upward
You should have enough space to rotate the unit away. Tape the intake hose shut to prevent dust from entering.
4) Locate the fill hole, and remove a 10MM bolt holding down the plastic dipstick
The dry o-ring on the dipstick was stubborn, so I twisted the dipstick back and forth and used a tiny bit of force to pull it out. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNOCK ANY DUST OR DEBRIS into the transmission fill hole.
5) Use 8MM hex bit to remove drain plug and replace washer
6) Let the fluid cool down to retract and measure
7) Use a loooong funnel to replenish the same amount that was drained out
 

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Thanks for the write up, I hope you don't mind me adding some screen grabs to this instructional again. The more we have the better for those who will follow along.

I grabbed a screenshot of the dipstick location and drain bolt location:
Transmission dip stick.jpg

trans fluid drain bolt.jpg


Once replaced run the vehicle until the ATF fluid is 122' F (50'C). remove the dipstick with the engine idling on a flat surface and verify the level is within the range on the dipstick as shown below:
dipstick marker.jpg

Once in the marker range reinstall and tighten the bolt to 71-97 in/lbs (8-11Nm)
 
:
Mazda CX-9 Signature
This is part 2 where I did another drain & fill along with filter change. Drain & fill you can refer to the first post. This post is for changing the filter. Please note I drained a total of 6qt after removing the filter.

Items needed:
1) Strainer aka filter (FZ01-21-500)
2) 10MM socket
3) Mazda Silicone Gasket (TB1217E) or equivalent RTV Gasket Maker
4) Approx 6qt of ATF
5) New bolts for the pan (I was unable to find replacement and reuse the bolts)

Optional:
Oil Pan (FZ01-21-51XB)

The pan was held on by a number of 10MM bolts. The bonding strength of OEM gasket was very strong and it took me a while to remove it. After the pan was off, I removed the two 10MM bolts holding the strainer in place. Be careful as there will be fluid trapped in the strainer. Thoroughly clean all the gasket off the mating surface. I used a razor blade, a boat load of brake cleaner, and a rag to get the gasket off. Proceed with extreme caution if you use a razor blade because a small nick CAN prevent a perfect seal and cause leak. Follow the instruction for the RTV and put the pan back on. Torque the bolts to approx 7lb/ft.

My 2cents... cleaning the gasket off the tranny case was straightforward and easy because it had a flat surface. However it was not the same for the pan. Pan had a tiny "step" to guide you where to lay the bead. You can refer to the picture and see I was able to lightly scrape the gasket off the "step" but not around it.
So if you ain't gonna starve to death over $30, get a new pan!! It was very time consuming and frustrating to clean the gasket off the pan. I emptied an entire bottle of brake cleaner which dissolved my pair of gloves and irritated my fingers. The amount of time + elbow grease made me regret not getting a new pan. Most importantly, if you nick the pan, you basically wasted all your time and effort.
 

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This is part 2 where I did another drain & fill along with filter change. Drain & fill you can refer to the first post. This post is for changing the filter. Please note I drained a total of 6qt after removing the filter.

Items needed:
1) Strainer aka filter (FZ01-21-500)
2) 10MM socket
3) Mazda Silicone Gasket (TB1217E) or equivalent RTV Gasket Maker
4) Approx 6qt of ATF
5) New bolts for the pan (I was unable to find replacement and reuse the bolts)

Optional:
Oil Pan (FZ01-21-51XB)

The pan was held on by a number of 10MM bolts. The bonding strength of OEM gasket was very strong and it took me a while to remove it. After the pan was off, I removed the two 10MM bolts holding the strainer in place. Be careful as there will be fluid trapped in the strainer. Thoroughly clean all the gasket off the mating surface. I used a razor blade, a boat load of brake cleaner, and a rag to get the gasket off. Proceed with extreme caution if you use a razor blade because a small nick CAN prevent a perfect seal and cause leak. Follow the instruction for the RTV and put the pan back on. Torque the bolts to approx 7lb/ft.

My 2cents... cleaning the gasket off the tranny case was straightforward and easy because it had a flat surface. However it was not the same for the pan. Pan had a tiny "step" to guide you where to lay the bead. You can refer to the picture and see I was able to lightly scrape the gasket off the "step" but not around it.
So if you ain't gonna starve to death over $30, get a new pan!! It was very time consuming and frustrating to clean the gasket off the pan. I emptied an entire bottle of brake cleaner which dissolved my pair of gloves and irritated my fingers. The amount of time + elbow grease made me regret not getting a new pan. Most importantly, if you nick the pan, you basically wasted all your time and effort.
Nice! I hope to get to this by the end of Sep. Would you recommend plastic scraper blades to no knick the mating surface? Or is a metal blade the real only way?
 
:
Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring 2016
Just a reminder...always loosen the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. If you can't loosen the fill plug, don't let the oil out.

It's getting close to the time when I want to do these jobs. Mr. Wabbit, thanks for posting this. I'll also install a Magnefine or Filtran in-line transmission fluid filter in the line to the cooler while I'm under the car for this. Anyone know the hose I.D.?
 
:
Mazda CX-9 Signature
Nice! I hope to get to this by the end of Sep. Would you recommend plastic scraper blades to no knick the mating surface? Or is a metal blade the real only way?
Honestly, I underestimated the the difficulty and didn't think I would need to resort to a razor blade. I would say a plastic blade would be beneficial for the tranny case but not the pan.

Just a reminder...always loosen the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. If you can't loosen the fill plug, don't let the oil out.

It's getting close to the time when I want to do these jobs. Mr. Wabbit, thanks for posting this. I'll also install a Magnefine or Filtran in-line transmission fluid filter in the line to the cooler while I'm under the car for this. Anyone know the hose I.D.?
Yes, I did loosen the dipstick in the fill hole before I drained the fluid. Sorry I didn't remove the lines so I have no clue.
 

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