Our CX-9 has 145k+ miles, and Id like to freshen up the suspension. Are here any shocks available besides the 3 or so options on rockauto.com? Are the CX-9 shocks and struts cross reference to another vehicle?
I noticed this went un-answered. Sorry for being a little late to the game.
Here is what I replaced my rears with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037WD76C/?tag=m20b7-20
I have yet to do the front but its on my list...eventually. 101k and 11 years and fronts haven't leaked yet but are looking a little rusty.
Right rear started to leak a few years back which is why I replaced them.
So far so good but these rear KYB's already have a bit of rust with only several thousand miles and always garage kept and washed.
Keep us updated on what you replace with!
Thanks for the response. I am still undecided if I want to tackle the job, since the WHOLE interior in the rear needs to be taken out to remove the shocks (rolleyes) I would like to firm up the handling though...
Yeah the rear interior wasn't fun, but not difficult. Just a lot of work. 3rd row comes out as does the quarter panel interior trim panels. I tried to do it without taking the trim panels out on the sides but couldn't get my hands in there and had to remove the trim panels as well. The washer that came with the KYB's was inferior to the oem so I re-used the oem washer. It is larger diameter and thicker.
Thanks, but I don't have it anymore. Life changes forced me to sell it. Single most regrettable event in my life, but no way around it. I now have a Mini Clubman S that I drive daily, which combines "Some" of the fun from the Miata with the practicality of a small wagon.
Just to bump this back up, I just replaced the rear shocks on my wife's 09 CX9 last weekend.
KYB shocks from Rock Auto.
As stated, the whole job wasn't that hard, just a bit of a pain to remove the interior panels. No way I could have completed this without fully removing the full panels.
I didn't even jack the car up.
The biggest issue I ran into was getting the double nut off the top of the factory shock without impact tools.
I couldn't get a standard box end wrench on the lower nut to hold it and I didn't have a needle nose vice grips.
Eventually I just took my normal vice grips and clamped it as tight as I could to the post sticking up above the threads. Luckily that did the trick and I could break it free.
Once that was off, the rest went just fine. Even the bolts on the bottom came out with not much fuss. I was mostly worried about those, but even without impact wrench, it all came apart with little effort.
The factory shocks weren't terrible @ 173K miles(at least they had no leaks). It does feel a bit stiffer.
Struts are next...probably a few weeks before I can get to that though.
The other strut should be here today/tomorrow, but it'll a few weekends before I can get to that. I gotta get my summer car out of storage this weekend(which is at my in-laws', so we stay for the weekend).
Water pump is a big concern right now for me since she's still running the factory one.
My biggest question is if I do timing chain(s?) at the same time or not. There's no rattle on startup, but if it's apart, should probably replace the chain(s).
While I'm an avid do-it-yourselfer, the water pump is something I'd let a shop do.
I'm thinking that the same pieces need to be removed to get access to both the water pump and the timing chain. Right? And tensioners and idlers that probably also should be replaced? (I'm not familiar with this engine.)
If the shop correctly bills you for the job, you pay once for all these other pieces to be removed for access and then reinstalled. In this case you only pay for the added parts. Not a bad deal. If the shop is either lazy or crooked, they look in their flat rate manual and bill you for the labor of these same removals for each and every part of the job. It is like you get the water pump done Monday, drive the car home, drive it back Tuesday for the timing chain, etc., and they have to do the same removals over again. Be sure to discuss this with the shop manager.
Just to bump this back up, I finished the front struts this weekend.
2 issues I had were getting the top nut off the strut and ABS sensor damage.
I got a cheap impact wrench from Harbor Freight that worked just fine.
The other issue was when I tried to remove the ABS sensor from the spindle. The Mazda service instructions recommended removing the sensor to prevent damaging the wire by accident.
Well, I damaged the sensor when trying to remove it on the first side I did. The sensor was rusted in the spindle. Now ABS light is on. It might be because I was able to move the sensor part way out, so it's not close enough to the ring to register. I think I will try tapping it back in to see if that fixes the issue. If not, I'll just get a new one.
I didn't bother removing the other side and had no issues.
The car rides better. Firmer, but not as jarring.
Also, I replaced the strut bearing assembly as well.
The clunk when hitting bumps is gone.
BTW, for those wondering about spring compressors, I just rented 2 kits from local parts store and used 3 of the compressors on the spring, evenly spaced. I just went around a few times, tightening each one a little bit. Not sure if it was needed, but didn't hurt anything and gave me a little piece of mind in case one broke.
Oooh, that reminds me, I need to send in my rebate for the shocks/struts.