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2010 clutch replacement

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2010 Mazda 5
So this last week I got everything needed to replace the clutch and flywheel. Including front struts and CV axles. Got in the garage today and started taking things apart.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
I have the drivers side CV axle out. Hope to get the other side out tomorrow. It should go faster with knowledge from first side.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
Got the passenger side strut and axle out. I have the transmission almost out. The starter and a couple of bolts are all that are holding it in. The engine has a support bar holding it and a transmission jack under it.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
I found 9 bolts holding the transmission to the engine. I have removed the starter. It still will not separate. Short time to work today. I will continue tomorrow.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
The transmission is back in the car. It is not torqued down yet and nothing else has been put back in. I am having trouble aligning the starter.
 
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2010 Mazda 5 Sport
Sounds like a really big job. Do you do this normally? How many hours do you think this took you?

Also, if you want to share what parts you purchased, that might help some of us down the road (if ever I have to change the clutch out).
 
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2010 Mazda 5
This is the biggest repair I have ever done. Brakes, water pumps, thermostats, shocks oil changes are my normal. I did the timing belt on my 91 Miata, under valve cover harness repair on my diesel Excursion and helped my brother a little on his 95 Miata engine swap.

Here is my list of parts. Some are because the car has almost 100k miles and they had to come off anyway.
1. Struts - I did complete strut kits, only $5 more per side and I did not have to mess with springs
2. Both CV axles - drivers side leaking
3. Sway bar end links and bushings
4. Rear main oil seal
5. Clutch kit (throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch pressure plate, clutch)
6. New fly wheel - more than having machined but no surprises
7. New motor mounts. left, right, lower
8. Master cylinder

Tools needed
1. Engine support bar
2. Transmission jack
3. Torque wrenches
4. Lots of sockets and extensions, wrenches
5. Breaker bar and/or air impact wrench
6. 1.25 inch or 32 mm socket to remove CV axle nuts
7. Jack stands
8. floor jack
 
Last edited:
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2010 Mazda 5 Sport
Yeah, a big job for sure. Any big issues?

Do you have to remove the struts to do the CV joint?

I'm just thinking ahead as my car is approaching 100k and I just did the strusts but could see a CV joint going down the road.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
The video I watched showed just moving the strut and hub out of the way to get the CV axles out.

Not sure if i'm allowed to post links, sorry in advance. CV axle removal is covered about 13 min into the video. you only have to do the outer on the right side if you are not dropping the transmission.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
So everything is back together. The only thing I need to do is fill the transmission. My pump will be here Friday I hope. I test started the engine without issue.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
So I got the Reline MTL in the transmission today. Took it out for a test drive and the only issue was a dragging sound from the passenger side. It turned out I must have bent the brake shield at some point and it was touching the rotor.

I also did not replace the sway bar to frame bushings. I could not figure out how to get to them.
 
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2010 Mazda 5 Sport
Sway bar bushings? The ones in the middle of the car?

You can get to them from underneath...I did it that way....blindly.

Or i think...just remove the battery box and then get them from the top. I had to remove the battery box to chase a dropped screw and noticed the sway bar bushing bolts were visible from the engine bay. You would need some extensions.
 
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2010 Mazda 5
I had almost everything back together when remembered I had them. I was under the car and could not get a socket on them and gave up quickly. They old ones are still quiet so I did not worry about it. Maybe later.
 

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