“Warped” rotors covered at 16k?

[2001birdowner]

My 2019 GT-R has lightly “warped” rotors. I put warped in quotes because I know they’re not actually warped and just have an uneven distribution of pad material.

Anyway, with 15,800 on the clock, should the dealer cover resurfacing(if they even do that there)? Kind of bs to have this so early on.

I also have a click the first time the brakes are applied going forwards or backwards. I know it’s pads moving slightly in the bracket. I’ve experienced this before with her crappy aftermarket pads....

More disappointment on what should otherwise be a great vehicle.

 

[davmac]

I think that you should try to get this covered under warranty. Sure brakes are wear items - but this is really early. The dealer is going to have to step up on your behalf or eat the service / parts.
How you ask - and possibly making your case with the regional Mazda support may be necessary.
Good luck.

 

[murky]

I think the dealer told me the brakes are covered for 12K miles. I had them address squeaky rear brakes maybe around 8K. 15.8K is close enough that they might take care of it for you if you have a good relationship.

I don't expect any special treatment. I only plan to go to the dealer for recalls or warranty work. Although I did buy a new OEM tire from them because they were the most convenient/available. That wasn't a good experience. And I got the Android Auto upgrade from them - I guess that was okay.

 

[shadonoz]

I think the dealer told me the brakes are covered for 12K miles.

Say what?

 

[ruthrj]

I’d give it a try. My Honda dealership resurfaced my rotors for me for free on my Odyssey with around 10k miles. That model was notorious for this issue though.

If you do get the rotors resurfaced try bedding the pads on it as soon as you get it back. Hopefully that will prevent the issue from reoccurring.

 

[Unobtanium]

Nah, they warped fam. I've experienced this on most every vehicle I've had, and always after the dealer rotates or changes tires. I finally discovered the cause when I had a 370z. Those are bad. The dealer finally resorted to hand tightening the lug nuts with a torque wrench. No more issues. GTR (nissan) tech conference in Dallas is where they learned about it and applied it to my case. Issue solved.

It's likely because if how the lug nuts were torqued during a tire rotation, not from driving. Yes, the rotors DO warp from lug nut over or uneven torque. You can prove this by getting then good and hot...very very pronounced judder. Let them cool, and it's much better. Deposits don't do that. Also, these are street pads. Very hard. They arent depositing on the rotors meaningfully.

 

[ruthrj]

Nah, they warped fam. I've experienced this on most every vehicle I've had, and always after the dealer rotates or changes tires. I finally discovered the cause when I had a 370z. Those are bad. The dealer finally resorted to hand tightening the lug nuts with a torque wrench. No more issues. GTR (nissan) tech conference in Dallas is where they learned about it and applied it to my case. Issue solved.

It's likely because if how the lug nuts were torqued during a tire rotation, not from driving. Yes, the rotors DO warp from lug nut over or uneven torque. You can prove this by getting then good and hot...very very pronounced judder. Let them cool, and it's much better. Deposits don't do that. Also, these are street pads. Very hard. They arent depositing on the rotors meaningfully.

You may be right. I only have experience with judder from my old Odyssey. The pads were leaving deposits on the rotors, but the van was over 2 tons with an arguably inadequate braking system for a vehicle that heavy. Mazda is a different animal. My 2013 OEM pads still had a lot of life left in them at 70k miles.

 

[Avoidin Deer]

I just had my tires rotated. I'll go check the torque settings and redo if required.

I never thought of this impacting rotor wear.

 

[40752]

I always recheck myself with a torque wrench after a visit to a tire dealer. If they use a torque stick on their impact tool it should be close but if not who knows.

 

[2001birdowner]

Nah, they warped fam. I've experienced this on most every vehicle I've had, and always after the dealer rotates or changes tires. I finally discovered the cause when I had a 370z. Those are bad. The dealer finally resorted to hand tightening the lug nuts with a torque wrench. No more issues. GTR (nissan) tech conference in Dallas is where they learned about it and applied it to my case. Issue solved.

It's likely because if how the lug nuts were torqued during a tire rotation, not from driving. Yes, the rotors DO warp from lug nut over or uneven torque. You can prove this by getting then good and hot...very very pronounced judder. Let them cool, and it's much better. Deposits don't do that. Also, these are street pads. Very hard. They arent depositing on the rotors meaningfully.

I learned about proper lug tightening over 15 years ago when I started turning wrenches. I’ve been the only one to do wheel changes(winter setup) and rotations. I always tighten by hand using a torque wrench, so that’s not it.

I can see and feel the deposits on the rotors.

We had the same issue on my wife’s 16. It got really bad around 20k. Since I changed rotors and pads over 15k I’ve had no issues.

Probably lack of caliper pin lube from the factory.

 

[2001birdowner]

I just had my tires rotated. I'll go check the torque settings and redo if required.

I never thought of this impacting rotor wear.

You won’t know if they’re over tightened by checking with a torque wrench. You would have to start over.

 

[2001birdowner]

I always recheck myself with a torque wrench after a visit to a tire dealer. If they use a torque stick on their impact tool it should be close but if not who knows.

As I noted to Avodin Deer, the wrench clicking at 100 ft/lbs does not let you know how over tightened they are. You really have to start over to ensure everything is torqued properly to the right spec in the right sequence.

 

[Avoidin Deer]

You won’t know if they’re over tightened by checking with a torque wrench. You would have to start over.

Thanks.

I first thought of starting over but then thought I could just "check." It's no big deal to jack each wheel up and loosen/retighten the nuts. I'm glad I had them replace those anti-theft nuts when they did the tire rotation. They had to take the car back to do it...they overlooked that part of the ticket the first time around.

So if I read my manual correctly, they should be 80 ft lb to 108 ft lb? Quite the range. My truck owner's manual says 100 ft lb (and advises to torque them properly in order to prevent rotor damage.) Guess I'll be checking those, too.

 

[Unobtanium]

I learned about proper lug tightening over 15 years ago when I started turning wrenches. I’ve been the only one to do wheel changes(winter setup) and rotations. I always tighten by hand using a torque wrench, so that’s not it.

I can see and feel the deposits on the rotors.

We had the same issue on my wife’s 16. It got really bad around 20k. Since I changed rotors and pads over 15k I’ve had no issues.

Probably lack of caliper pin lube from the factory.

Not doubting you, but can you take a picture?

 

[40752]

As I noted to Avodin Deer, the wrench clicking at 100 ft/lbs does not let you know how over tightened they are. You really have to start over to ensure everything is torqued properly to the right spec in the right sequence.

Yes definitely, most times I have found them to be overtighten. Rule of thumb I use 90-95 Ft Lbs.

 

[ruthrj]

My Honda dealership had overtightened my lug nuts so badly once that my Ingersol Rand impact wrench nearly couldn’t get one off. Cranked the impact to 100 psi air pressure to feed it, and it still took a couple minutes to break it free. Man was I pissed. 75 psi is usually all I need and a quick zap easily removes lugnuts tightened to 100 ft lbs.

It’s so incredibly frustrating not being able to trust people to do the simplest of vehicle maintenance. Like the first and last time I had my tires rotated at Walmart: I checked the tread depth before I came in to be sure they did it right. I checked my tread depth when I came home and discovered the put the lefts to the right and vice versa, not front to back (super facepalm).

 

[Mazdiod2]

This is why I never take mine in for tire rotation. I rotate them myself and figure it's good to practice in case I have a flat and need to change a tire. Plus I get to see the condition of the underneath.