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Welcome to the group and the MSP life. You made a good choice getting a speed protege and it seems to be well taken care of. 100% stock is great! Now to answer some of your questions The LSD is known to fail occasionally but isn't all that common. A cheaper solution would be reinforcing the...

It is sad indeed. I remember spending hours on this forum as a teen, back when the protege scene was bumpin. This is where I learned most of the things I know about the protege. You never know it might become popular again. Definitely needs to be promoted through social media a little more I...

Depends on your goals. If your looking for power and speed or plan on drag racing, I'd suggest mazdaspeed protege swap. If you want to race on a track or autocross NA is fine but you'll need to beef up the suspension, chassis and get some good wheels. Weight reduction will help in both cases...

A little late to the thread but my 2002 protege5 recently did the same exact thing, stuck in 4th. I'm guessing it's a problem with the shift forks. As there was a negligent amount of metal flakes and it still ran fine. No noises or anything. Wish I could confidently say what the problem...

Didnt know people actually used this forum anymore hehe. I follow you on Instagram and I'm eagerly waiting to see some more progress. I'm digging the new color and im gonna be following this build here now. That parts list is gonna make for a quick MSP. Keep the updates coming!

Sure you can. Is it safe and reliable? Not at all. The main problem is the toothpick connecting rods that are used in the FS engines. If you had a forged bottom end and then a really good tune to compensate for the high compressio, it could be reliable. It takes a lot of money. better off just...

Im done lol. Never got around to making a thread. Working on boost now.

Are you changing compression ratios? Forged pistons and rods will add a tiny bit of power but it wont really be noticeable. What it will do is enable you to run higher boost which would of course improve power. With the mods you already have I don't see why you couldn't hit 200-250 HP with...

This is very good to hear. This kinda killed my motivation as I thought I wasted a good chunk of change on this ECU. Im glad this community is still alive (Kind of). Someones always got the info I need. Thanks to TheMAN.

Anything possible but its not really worth it. To do so you would need to swap out engine harness, ECU, Transmission and a lot of other things I cant think of at the moment. Going with another 2.0 would save a lot of time and money without lowering your power output.

after new struts I had the same clunk. My problem was I didn't tighten my swaybar end links all the way. Its worth giving them a second look. easier to access than the strut mount too.

Does anybody know if the MSP ECU will work with a vehicle that doesn't have ABS? I am piecing together my turbo kit and bought the ECU already. Didn't think about the ABS. Will it cause the Brake light and ABS light to illuminate? if so any way around it?

1) Yes everything will bolt up. If you get an FS-ZE you will want to upgrade the computer to take advantage of the different cams (main difference), if you don't you will be fine but wont get the extra HP, which is the whole point of "upgrading" to an FS-ZE. A few differences in the intake...

Ok so I figured out how to properly hook up both Clutch switches without changing dash harnesses. The Neutral safety switch was actually bypassed and very straight forward. The Second switch which is the Clutch Pedal Position Switch had to be spliced in to the ECU harness but was fairly easy...

That is definitely a possibility. I totally overlooked the actual sensor itself. I will inspect the sensor next.

Also you could try contacting the previous owner and see if they know anything. Just a thought.

OK so to me it sounds like you have an ES unless someone did a full conversion which I highly doubt. The gauge cluster was probably changed out to reflect lower mileage because as you said ALL ES trim level cars came with a white gauge cluster. Another big difference with the DX/LX and ES...

yeah that is correct. I started off with a gutted thermostat and began to work my way up as my temp was too low. Regardless I got the same results with all three set ups.

I have already changed the thermostat. I used OEM temp and one step colder on the thermostat with no change. I also tried gutting my thermostat but none of the above increased operating temperatures. I live in Hawaii so we don't get cold weather anyways. the only time it ever reaches operating...

I think I'm going to go with a gt2860rs. I am currently building a spare short block with K1 rods so a GT2860 should be a good fit, not too much lag but able to boost a little higher if wanted.