Search results

A decade later and add me to the success stories. Thank you to the OP for sorting this out and the write up.

I never did replace mine. Though broken, I was able to make it work for the rest of the life of. I sold it fall of 2020. Not real helpful, I know, but I wanted you to know what I did. Maybe add the pigtails and connect directly to the bulb?

The irony is that this 165K 2002 Protege is my kid's and my dailies are older - a 299K 2001 Tundra and a 146K 1998 Boxster. :LOL: But that's because I like to drive old stuff, not because I have to.

A new coil fixed it. These were Autozone. I've had similar experience with Advance Auto coils too. For me, taking an hour (including driving to the parts store) every couple of years isn't a big deal. This is a 20 year old $2K car with 160K+ miles, it's not likely to see more than a few more...

Good to know, but I never disconnected the battery for either the hose repair or the coil. Maybe I should have, but I didn't.

The coil had a lifetime warranty and it's stupid easy to change, so I swapped in a new one. Seems to have cured it, I'll know better when my youngest drives it a bit more tomorrow.

2002 Protege, 160K miles. The other day the upper radiator hose split at the engine side clamp, ran hot but I think it was shut down before any damage. I fixed the hose, refilled with coolant but then had a CEL. Pulled the following codes: P0117 - Coolant temp circuit low input P1250 - Fuel...

Yep, no fog lights.

OK, so it turns out the washer pump was wired fine and getting 12v when the switch was hit. The problem was a bad pump. I have no idea what those two loose connectors are for, they both seem to have blue with red wires, but they seemt o have nothing to do with the washer pump. Got a new pump...

The white connector looks like blue/orange & black, the gray looks like it's blue/red and black. Hard to say for sure. Seems like they are the wires that should be connected. I'll check for 12v at the blue/orange wire when the washer switch is hit. Funny thing is that I checked under the hood...

Here's what I saw when I pulled the bumper cover: This gray connector was just dangling. One blue & red wire, one black wire. Near the fill neck is this unused white connector, which doesn't match or reach the other one: It's got a blue & red wire and a black wire with a white stripe:

I don't think it's ever worked. I bought it for them a couple of years ago, and they've been complaining that the sprayers don't work. I had the bumper cover off and noted that the pump isn't plugged in at all, but there's no where obvious to plug it in.

My youngest's 2002 Protege washer sprayers don't work. I pulled the bumper and found that the wiring is disconnected (pretty sure this car has been wrecked and repaired before). The connector to the pump is connected, but the wires lead to a gray connector near the top of the reservoir that...

Yep, I'm an idiot. I assumed that the LF failed 3 times therefore it must have failed again. I checked the RF this weekend and found it had a lot of play. I pulled the spindle to get the bearing pressed in this week.

Seems unlikely that the intermediate shaft / joint shaft bearing would change based on the car going right or left. Symptoms really point to a wheel bearing. With all the LF failures this car has had, I made the assumption that it was the LF. I'm starting to wonder if it's not the LR. I...

Boy, I had to dig into the manual to find that. The joint shaft looks to be the intermediate drive shaft between the trans and the RH CV joint. The noise I'm hearing is seems to be on the LH side too and this is on the RH shaft. I'm not finding it listed at all, at least at Rock Auto or...