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Came across this https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/a33371/how-to-fix-misreading-speedometer/

Maybe you got something on the circuit board underneath the knob, or maybe the board itself is bad. See my last post here: https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/infotainment-commander-knob-will-no-longer-toggle-2016-cx-5.123873348/

You might also want to make sure there's no oil leaks around the timing cover or oil pan. It's a minor annoyance at worst but the drive line is IMO solid. Also, look at the engine belt tensioner.

I have the same problem, usually shows up in warmer weather. I used to have the "beep" function enabled but turned it off. Thing sounds like a telephone sometimes when it makes it random jumps. I think somewhere on here some one has a procedure for fixing this, involves removing the screen to do...

2016 is a good year, IMO. Good engine/trans combo, reliable power train. Had to have my rear calipers replaced as well for the defective EPB problem for which the parking brake would bind up and not release. You might want to opt for a 2015 as well, they didn't have the EPB. Great gas mileage.

Good to know, mine seems to have fixed itself.

Some oil companies advertise a higher additive pack with their premium fuels like Shell and Exxon/Mobile. https://www.shell.us/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power-nitro-plus-premium-gasoline.html

Seems to be a popular topic these days.

I know there's one or two items in here that nobody does https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsozrTXfHoc

Car is in the shop today, hopefully he over quoted like he usually does. I also go with OEM when possible, particularly when it comes to suspension. Brakes gets a mix with aftermarket and OEM. I just replaced a front brake hose last week and it cost almost $45, dealer price with a 15% discount...

Garages don't figure it the way you did. For example, one Mavis tire dealer broke it down this way, $214 per LCA, discounted from $315, labor and wheel alignment coming out to $875. State inspection and Emissions would be another $100. Then the state has to get its cut at 6% tax. I checked a few...

Yeah, I don't have a garage, so suspension work I generally don't do. I'll do shocks, brakes and some other light nonsense (plugs, oil changes, a timing belt or two). These guys have had a stellar rep for years. Still way cheaper than a dealer. I've had a few cars for many years longer than I've...

So, if you don't have a Full automatic A/C (climate control) then there's no issue? Mine is stuck at 59 F, with a plain Jane a/c system.

I trust these guys, been going there over 30 years. I've been hearing an occasional knocking noise the last few months and the last time I looked at the bushings they looked questionable. Ball joint seals are torn so it's time, in my book anyway. BOTH control arms replaced, alignment, state...

Just had mine flagged for both lower control arms with worn bushings at my favorite indie shop. Brought it in for a state inspection and wheel alignment. 86k miles. Total bill will be $1100. One of those things I guess.

Yep, there should be a sticky..."if you screw up your EPB..."

Off hand, and I'm purely guessing, I'd say it's one of those you pry out with a screwdriver and tap the new one back in with a seal installer. You'd have to pull out the axle shaft.

I've had quite a few new oil filters that had bits of metal in the thread hole area leftover from the machining process. Bosch, Purolator, and Mobil to name a few.

Congrats on the mileage, I hope to be there someday. Check out the link for cleaning valves, might point you in the right direction. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/cleaned-the-intake-valves-on-my-2013-cx-5.123880903/