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My coolant leaked into engine body (I guess failed water pump) and there is awful knocking noise which happens somewhere around top/passenger engine side. Is this beyond reasonable (without engine removal) repair?

I thought about that. But there is no noise at stop with high RPM. It's very speed dependent , not RPM. I will try to change both rear hubs just in case.

Tires have wear indicator at 60%. This comes from the rear regardless of tire swap.

There is loud droning noise from behind if I drive with sufficient speed. I tried to manually rotate rear wheels and I did not find any play or grinding within rear differential. If it is the differential it can be only from the drive shaft input gear I guess. Any ideas?

It seems like I have a leak around my PTO's output shaft seal. I wonder if anyone fixed by using Ford's seal kit DB5Z-7275-E like in https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Transfer-Case-Output-Shaft-Seal-Edge-Taurus-Flex-Explorer-DB5Z-7275-D-/201972025513

Does anybody know a part number for a transmission drain plug with overflow hole?

Here I'm not talking vanilla OBD2. I have VAG-COM which works on any cars with its generic part. I need to run Mazda specific diagnostic. Such as transmission fluid temperature to start.

Has anyone used cheap ebay interface cable, such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-VCM-IDS-OBD2-USB-Diagnostic-Interface-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-for-Ford-Mazda-/181259195571 on CX-9?

I experience annoying rattle which is kind of plastic on plastic during first 5 to 10 minutes until CX-9 is warm enough. Especially happens on cold days when temperature is below freezing. I checked all seat belts, removable trunk plastic covers, wrenches in a trunk, headrests, seat rails, no...

When you wash your hands with good enough soap it is more important to do it frequently than using ‘best soap’. So any synthetic 0w20 or 5w20 such as Mobil 1 will do. The base of syn oil and brand determines mostly oil longevity but if you don’t mind to change it at least every 5K it does not...

There is no such thing as 'warped' rotors. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths It very much depends on your brake habits

I have both CX-9 and Odyssey. CX-9 is basically a car. Utility wise Odyssey is much better and has usable 3rd row. On paved roads Odyssey runs not so bad.

Hello. Did anyone try this intake on CX-9? 77-2583KS http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WFRWCI/?tag=m20b7-20

I remember that Mazda says ECU has ‘Active Adaptive Shift mode’. Conditions are “The accelerator pedal is depressed fully to accelerate rapidly while driving in D position” and “Rapid acceleration or deceleration continues for a certain period of time while driving in D position”. In this AAS...

For FWD, Camber is (based on gas volume), -026′; -027′; -029′; -030′; -032′ It's from online mazda service manual.

For AWD rear wheels: Total toe-in (mm {in}) for 20 inch wheel: 1.4 {0.055} or 009′018′ Camber angle Tolerance 1, Fuel gauge indication (Empty,1/4,1/2,3/4,Full) - -027′; -028′; -030′; -031′; -033′ Thrust angle 0

New Mazda transmission AY6A-EL (AY6AX-EL) does not need dipstick and it’s not sealed. The bottom has double plug: overflow plug within overflow tube. The top has filler plug. The tricky part is to add correct amount. For that Mazda suggest either using M-MDS, or, “ATF temperature display” in...