Brake Fluid Change Interval 2018 CX-5 FWD

[mazdaftw]

Just came back from the dealership today after an oil change and tire rotation. During the time I was there, the salesman tried to upsell me on the 30K service with premium oil conditioner, fuel additive cleaner, crankcase cleaning service, battery cleaning service, brake fluid exchange service and A/C odor treatment service which costs close to $1000. I declined all those services but the guy did mention my brake fluid is a little dirty, The vehicle is 27 months old and has 22,200 miles. I checked the owner's manual and it says to inspect the fluid. I guess my question is, when is it recommended to change it. Should I receive a second opinion? I have no intention of returning back to the dealership.

https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manuals/2018/cx5/contents/07020200.html

Thanks.

 

[ceric]

I am one of owners who let dealers do the works. However, I certainly don't buy everything they try to sell me. I collect coupons (even from Mazdausa.com) to get good deals. Some people find DIY fun, but others don't.

I love to install accessories by myself.
These are usually not safety related if I mess up.

 

[mazdaftw]

I am one of owners who let dealers do the works. However, I certainly don't buy everything they try to sell me. I collect coupons (even from Mazdausa.com) to get good deals. Some people find DIY fun, but others don't.

I love to install accessories by myself.
These are usually not safety related if I mess up.

Hahah yeah I feel the same way! Can't have the engine leak oil or wheel fall off.

 

[Unobtanium]

My dealer tests the fluid. 2% moisture content is the failure rate. I change it if it hits that. Also when brakes are done, regardless. Otherwise I don't muck with it.

 

[Unobtanium]

I am one of owners who let dealers do the works. However, I certainly don't buy everything they try to sell me. I collect coupons (even from Mazdausa.com) to get good deals. Some people find DIY fun, but others don't.

I love to install accessories by myself.
These are usually not safety related if I mess up.

I feel the same. Dealer takes care of my CX5's for a very good price and I'm happy with it. New rotors and pads on my 2015 including labor was about $600. I couldn't get all of the parts myself online for less than $450 shipped, and no way in hell I'd do a brake job for $150 on this car.

 

[bluegrass]

I couldn't get all of the parts myself online for less than $450 shipped

You can get the entire kit (front/rear rotors & pads) for $150 - $175 with free shipping.

 

[Unobtanium]

You can get the entire kit (front/rear rotors & pads) for $150 - $175 with free shipping.

Link?

 

[bluegrass]

Link?

Dozens of different products and retailers to choose from at that price point...

https://www.google.com/search?q=201...AhVn1lkKHShTBjUQ1TV6BQgREOQC&biw=1680&bih=886

 

[Unobtanium]

Dozens of different products and retailers to choose from at that price point...

https://www.google.com/search?q=201...AhVn1lkKHShTBjUQ1TV6BQgREOQC&biw=1680&bih=886

Mazda is the only product I am putting on my Mazda. I get around 100K miles out of the OEM brakes, so I stick with it. They also have a lifetime guarantee...

 

[ColtX-5]

I can't recall EVER seeing a brake fluid change interval in an owner's manual. my motorcycles have a 2 year recommendation. I did flush the Ducati's system a few years back. I had my Miata flushed when it was @ 10 years old.

It's a good idea, but not before 2 years. Miles don't matter, it's the time that allows for moisture absorption.

 

[CharlestonMX5]

Most of this is in jest, but could represent just how a Stealership can rip people off, all prices are retail cost, tax not included.

Premium oil conditioner - $8.00 Maybe a little Moly ?
Fuel additive cleaner - $6.00 Techron or Lucas quote from manual 3-27 "CAUTION - Never add fuel system additives, otherwise the emission control system could be damaged. Consult an Authorized Mazda Dealer for details."
Crankcase cleaning service - $10.00 Qt. Castrol 0w-20 Maybe flush with a quart of clean oil before they fill it, Have to admit I have done that on dirty engines I have worked on before, but only if I find sludge or contaminants in the oil
Battery cleaning service - $10.00 Battery terminal brush
Brake fluid exchange service - $5.00 Brake fluid Suck out brake fluid from the reservoir and top it back off with new brake fluid
A/C odor treatment service - $1.00 Febreze sprayed on the cabin filter ??? I know they have some kind of treatment, sprayed down into the vents or on the evaporator people use when selling flooded cars to eliminate the mold odor, but don't have any personal experience with it.

Total $40.00 - Time less than 30 minutes, profit $960

 

[murky]

I changed the fluid today, it went smoothly and clean. For 1-person operation, I used a simple tube in bottle setup, with the bottle mounted higher than the caliper with a tube to the bottom. Used a cheap bluetooth snake camera to watch from the driver's seat. I also swapped the rear rotors and pads, as well as stainless hardware. Cleaned behind it, greased both sides. Cleaned the pins and lubed with silicone paste. With the rear brakes in maintenance mode, I was able to push the caliper back in with my thumbs - so no worry that I'd failed to retract the parking brake. With the motor on, there didn't seem to be a good place for the C-clamp, didn't want to squeeze through the motors plastic housing, although that probably would have been fine with that little resistance. Had 5.5-6mm left of friction material. Probably could have gone another 30K miles. Currently at 35K. I have the parts for the front, I'm debating whether to put them on now or wait. I like to do i when the brake fluid is fresh.

 

[yrwei52]

I changed the fluid today, it went smoothly and clean. For 1-person operation, I used a simple tube in bottle setup, with the bottle mounted higher than the caliper with a tube to the bottom. Used a cheap bluetooth snake camera to watch from the driver's seat. I also swapped the rear rotors and pads, as well as stainless hardware. Cleaned behind it, greased both sides. Cleaned the pins and lubed with silicone paste. With the rear brakes in maintenance mode, I was able to push the caliper back in with my thumbs - so no worry that I'd failed to retract the parking brake. With the motor on, there didn't seem to be a good place for the C-clamp, didn't want to squeeze through the motors plastic housing, although that probably would have been fine with that little resistance. Had 5.5-6mm left of friction material. Probably could have gone another 30K miles. Currently at 35K. I have the parts for the front, I'm debating whether to put them on now or wait. I like to do i when the brake fluid is fresh.
View attachment 234200
View attachment 234202

You have a great (and unique) way to change the brake fluid all by yourself!

As for front brakes, I’d wait until 60K to 70K miles to change them, as it’s about time to do another brake fluid replacement if you follow 2-year interval by most Euro cars.

 

[CharlestonMX5]

I changed the fluid today

What area of the country are you from ? The fluid looks really clean, I only have about 1700 miles on the 2019 I bought in January 2020. The 2018 CPO I purchased had so much rust on it, the dealer had to take it back. Just judging from the looks of the rotors and calipers, I am considering painting my calipers and maybe rotor hats with some plain "silver" caliper paint just for protection, Don't think I could find Machine Gray caliper paint.

I had a 2003 Miata I painted to match the car, looked great, These CX-5's I have seen more rust on parts. that the 15 y/o Miata didn't even have a spot of rust on it anywhere, even the sway bar link threads. The new CX-5 already shows signs of rust forming on the threads of the links. Mazda is definitely using cheaper materials. I am going to have to put the new vehicle up on ramps to check out what it looks like and maybe use some preventative measures. Will see if I still have some pictures of the 2018. In the second picture you can't see it, but rust was forming under the paint.

 

[CharlestonMX5]

Here's a write up with pictures of a homemade air powered brake bleeder.

Link:
$20 Air Powered Brake Bleeder

 

[murky]

What area of the country are you from ? The fluid looks really clean, I only have about 1700 miles on the 2019 I bought in January 2020. The 2018 CPO I purchased had so much rust on it, the dealer had to take it back. Just judging from the looks of the rotors and calipers, I am considering painting my calipers and maybe rotor hats with some plain "silver" caliper paint just for protection, Don't think I could find Machine Gray caliper paint.

I had a 2003 Miata I painted to match the car, looked great, These CX-5's I have seen more rust on parts. that the 15 y/o Miata didn't even have a spot of rust on it anywhere, even the sway bar link threads. The new CX-5 already shows signs of rust forming on the threads of the links. Mazda is definitely using cheaper materials. I am going to have to put the new vehicle up on ramps to check out what it looks like and maybe use some preventative measures. Will see if I still have some pictures of the 2018. In the second picture you can't see it, but rust was forming under the paint.

View attachment 234247View attachment 234248View attachment 234249

 

[murky]

What area of the country are you from ? The fluid looks really clean, I only have about 1700 miles on the 2019 I bought in January 2020. The 2018 CPO I purchased had so much rust on it, the dealer had to take it back. Just judging from the looks of the rotors and calipers, I am considering painting my calipers and maybe rotor hats with some plain "silver" caliper paint just for protection, Don't think I could find Machine Gray caliper paint.

I had a 2003 Miata I painted to match the car, looked great, These CX-5's I have seen more rust on parts. that the 15 y/o Miata didn't even have a spot of rust on it anywhere, even the sway bar link threads. The new CX-5 already shows signs of rust forming on the threads of the links. Mazda is definitely using cheaper materials. I am going to have to put the new vehicle up on ramps to check out what it looks like and maybe use some preventative measures. Will see if I still have some pictures of the 2018. In the second picture you can't see it, but rust was forming under the paint.

View attachment 234247View attachment 234248View attachment 234249

That's new fluid to keep the tube submerged before I started on the first caliper. I started with clean fluid so I could better see the color of what I flushed.

Here's the 2nd caliper:

 

[murky]

You have a great (and unique) way to change the brake fluid all by yourself!

As for front brakes, I’d wait until 60K to 70K miles to change them, as it’s about time to do another brake fluid replacement if you follow 2-year interval by most Euro cars.

Thanks. What you suggest is logical, but I've got momentum, and the parts . The new ones will probably last 80K miles or more. There's a decent chance I'll still be sitting on these heavy parts when I'm done with the car if I don't put them on there . My last car I drove for almost 20 years and still have, but I'll probably replace this one sooner.

Besides, I should probably lube the pins and clean and lube the hardware on the front. I didn't do that yesterday. If I do that, it's not much more work to swap in the new parts. Maybe less because I don't have to clean the hardware that gets replaced. And there's a half bottle of new fluid open less than 24 hours and the waste and extraction devices haven't been cleaned yet.

 

[murky]

Well, I could have gone another 100K miles on the fronts before I needed new pads (about 8.5mm remaining at 35K miles), but I had the parts, and time off, so what the heck. And I got to top up the brake fluid with new pads - so its calibrated

 

[yrwei52]

Well, I could have gone another 100K miles on the fronts before I needed new pads, but I had the parts, and time off, so what the heck. And I got to top up the brake fluid with new pads - so its calibrated

View attachment 234315

New year with all new brakes! Nice!

I can see a screw hole between the wheel stud holes. Is there a screw “holding” the front disk like my Honda CR-V does? Or is it a threaded hole for pushing out the disk separating from the wheel hub with a screw?

 

[HyFlyer]

I can see a screw hole between the wheel stud holes. Is there a screw “holding” the front disk like my Honda CR-V does? Or is it a threaded hole for pushing out the disk separating from the wheel hub with a screw?

For threading a bolt in to push the rotor off the hub. Works great too