2013~2016 Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

[yrwei52]

Actually it didn't take more than a couple of seconds to come up with my take on this. I'm a dedicated DIYer too, and have no problem letting stuff go, when I don't see a big rush. I watched a motor mount leak for quite a few months on my daughter's 3i a few years ago, before finally getting around to swapping it out.

And you may be correct that it will never turn into an active drip onto the belt - no idea if it can or cannot do that. However, I'll stand by my opinion that a pro should advise the owner that it's a possibility (unless he know for certain it's not), and recommend replacing the part.

But you're certainly entitled to your opinion, and there's definitely room for more than one point of view on this.

Here is my take on this leaky belt tensioner issue. I’ll wait a bit until Mazda finally stabilized their part supply with consist part number and serial number on the tensioner. Besides, it’s too cold now to work on cars replacing the leaky tensioner.

I like to use leaky shock absorber as the analogy. If we see a leaky shock absorber do we want to replace it (a pair)? We can keep using the leaky shock without issues just like the belt tensioner. But the risk is there and most would want to replace it soon. A leaky belt tensioner although may not cause any immediate problem, but it will shorten the lifespan of serpentine belt due to the weaker damping function. It’s a problem, to me and to Mazda too or they wouldn’t issue a TSB and modify the tensioner damper.

 

[edmaz]

The part number for current Mazda OEM belt tensioner is PE03-15-980C, but the serial number is F-569897.10. See post #237 and post #238 in previous page for more details. The OEM tensioner is still made in Slovakia, not Germany.

We were discussing the new '13' version, not the current one. I saw the new Mazda part # in the TSB is PET2-15-980, but didn't know if that's the only one, which is why I told the poster to go by what the VIN lookup comes back with.

 

[yrwei52]

I don't really understand the function of the oil in the Mazda tensioner but it doesn't appear to be constructed the way a hydraulic part is. There doesn't seem to be a cylinder and piston, just a rubber boot over a spring.

Yep the design like you described for a “damper” does look weird. Mazda calls it “damper“ that must have a reason. The rubber boot is really tight on these 2 new OEM tensioners I was checking out at my Mazda dealer with different part numbers. I thought I could easily to rip the boot open like several had stated on their old tensioner but I couldn’t. These makes me feel more comfortable to use supposedly revised OEM belt tensioner.

 

[yrwei52]

We were discussing the new '13' version, not the current one. I saw the new Mazda part # in the TSB is PET2-15-980, but didn't know if that's the only one, which is why I told the poster to go by what the VIN lookup comes back with.

Every Mazda dealer can no longer get PET2-15-980 tensioner with serial number F-569897.13 mentioned in the TSB as that part number has been superseded by PE03-15-980C.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I did some looking on the web and found this on the Rock auto site

How a Hydraulic Tensioner Works

"
Storage:
Hydraulic actuators should be stored upright (visible part of the piston rod to the top) to prevent leakage and to avoid oil mixing with the air. Air bubbles in the oil could lead to a “non-damping” situation, which can result in tooth jump or tooth shear (in case of timing belt drives).

Installation:
The retaining pin should only be removed after the installation of all the components: new belt, pulley, lever, hydraulic actuator. The reason for this guideline is that, once installed, the hydraulic actuator is in a vertical position and there is no risk of mixing air into the oil. The installer should always refer to the OE recommendations when doing belt system replaement or refer to instructions supplied with all Timing Component Kits. If the pin is accidentally removed, in horizontal or inverted tensioner positions, it is strongly recommended to compress the piston rod gently while in the upright position and then install the part. The engine should be rotated a few revolutions by hand in order to ensure separation of the oil and air before engine startup. It is also suggested that after rotating the engine two full revolutions the system be allowed to sit for 15 minutes before startup.

Advantages:
Typically, hydraulic tensioners can operate with a larger range of dynamic belt lengths than mechanical tensioners. Due to the length of stroke of the actuator and the lever design the hydraulic tensioner system is particularly suitable for large V6 or V8 applications. The high unidirectional damping characteristics make it suitable for controlling the dynamic belt behavior on applications with high dynamic loads.

Why Replace?
Tensioner pulley bearing wear and actuator degradation are normal and can lead to a loss of performance. Additionally, these systems are susceptible to contamination and over time, oil leaks can develop in the actuator seal. Even the smallest leak in the actuator can result in incorrect damping and accelerated wear on the system. Also, as a result of the constant motion of the parts in not maintained and components replaced at regular maintenance intervals, there is a high risk of component failure as well as catastrophic engine damage."

Is the Mazda tensioner like this type?

The Rock auto part someone posted recently looked more like it than the Mazda part, but I haven't examined any of them.

This says any oil leakage could affect performance.

 

[edmaz]

Every Mazda dealer can no longer get PET2-15-980 tensioner with serial number F-569897.13 mentioned in the TSB as that part number has been superseded by PE03-15-980C.

Ok, version 13 had a cup of coffee, is now gone, and 10 is back. Can't wait to see what's coming next!

 

[cz5gt]

change of supplier may be

 

[edmaz]

change of supplier may be

But only if the new supplier will guarantee theirs will leak as well as the Slovokian tensioners do

 

[yrwei52]

change of supplier may be

The latest belt tensioner PE03-15-980C is still made by INA, a German company. See post #237 and post #238 in previous page. It’d be interesting to see how is the INA belt tensioner selling by Rock Auto performed?

 

[yrwei52]

The TSB 01-019/19 was issued on 11/26/2019 which is almost a year old. It’s possible Mazda has made more modifications on tensioner with a new part number PE03-15-980C which supersedes older PET2-15-980 with serial number F-569897.13 mentioned in the TSB.

TSB 01-019/19: OIL LEAKAGE FROM DRIVE BELT AUTO TENSIONER AND RATTLE NOISE FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT

 

[avi1777]

Even though I had a slight sweat and not really a leak, I decided to change it, can't afford getting stuck with 2 small kids in the car.

 

[avi1777]

did mine today,the part they supplied was the pe031598c.

 

[yrwei52]

did mine today,the part they supplied was the pe031598c.

Sounded like the job is a piece of cake for you ⋯ Did you remove all wheel well splash shields out like Digbicks1234 did for easier access? Did you check the serial number of your PE03-15-980C tensioner? Is it F-569897.10, or F-569897.13?

 

[edmaz]

Didn't sound like avi is a DIYer. (but is someone who stays on top of the required maintenance on their vehicle)

 

[amusing]

Data point: belt tensioner 2015 skyactiv g 2.5 cx5 fwd touring @90k So. Cal. October 2020 One owner operator in So. Cal. Environment reported a chirp sound when air conditioner cycles on when rpms were rather low but throttle input for slight acceleration So below 2k rpm.
degreasing the general engine bay environment has been part of routine services/ oil and filter changes every 5k since new So factory OEM belt tensioner showed a minimal exterior oily dust and grime on the boot and aluminum when it was removed.
the roller bearing of wheel inspected tested for wobble or noise...yep time to renew due to wearing bearings of roller wheel . The serpentine belt showed cracking so it was replaced as well. The spring inside and the grease inside was not the problem Yet grease expands with high temps tends to sneak up and out the boot.

 

[avi1777]

Sounded like the job is a piece of cake for you ⋯ Did you remove all wheel well splash shields out like Digbicks1234 did for easier access? Did you check the serial number of your PE03-15-980C tensioner? Is it F-569897.10, or F-569897.13?

think it was the 10,didnt do it my self,i went to a good mechanic.
im to much on top of things,always was.-)

 

[HyFlyer]

@avi1777 , do you notice any difference with the new tensioner? (and I assume new belts?) Engine smoother? Quieter?

 

[avi1777]

non,my original one was 31k miles and almost 4 years old,it was sweating not really leaking,the car is the same noise wise as before.

 

[avi1777]

didn't change belts btw,mechanic said they are good.

 

[MyFirstMazda]

How much did he charge for that service?