What did you pay for your CX-5?

If that is the ridiculous case then he should be going out further to Georgia, Maryland, Virginia, Pensylvania, CT, Delaware etc. Plenty deals to be had. To save thousands you need to put the effort in and fly and drive ie drive there with a buddy to pick up.

I actually tried contacting a handful of dealers in PA and none would lower either.
 
At this point In time, you should be getting 15% off msrp ( the true monroney sticker) on that vehicle plus TTL.
Nope, and I don't think you'd find anyone that came close. As Randy Newman, "I could be wrong, but I don't think so"
 
Hi,

First time buying a Mazda looking for feedback on my 2020 CX-5 GT with GT Premium package offer:

MSRP: $35325
Selling Price: $33,200
Rebate: $1500
Net Price: $31700
Government Fee: $857
Total taxes: $2230
Total: 34787

I am in NJ if that matters. Should I pull the trigger?

No idea why you have a govt fee that high.
Good point among others, Tchman. According to the following link the NJ registration should be $85 and the title transfer with lien an additionl $85 = $190. With no lien its $20 less.


The sales tax doesn't line up either. NJ sales tax on a vehicle is 6.625%. The stated tax implies a taxable amount of $33,660. While the following link is headed "casual sales" all indications are this rate applies to new car dealer sales:


NJ does not cap doc fees as in other states, e.g., NY caps at $75 and OH at $250. According to C&D, the average doc fee paid in NJ is $335:

 
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If that is the ridiculous case then he should be going out further to Georgia, Maryland, Virginia, Pensylvania, CT, Delaware etc. Plenty deals to be had. To save thousands you need to put the effort in and fly and drive ie drive there with a buddy to pick up.
Yup. I've posted, and got negative responses, about spending some time to get a better deal. Too many people have said "I just accepted his deal because I didn't want to spend the time arguing"

As I've said, people fail to realize that saving $1,000 on a $30,000 car is the same as saving $1000 on a $1,500 TV. - don't tell me about 'percentage savings' is different by a fact of 20 - it's still an extra $1,000 in your pocket. Hypothetical - if I said I'll give you $900 to get on a plane in the morning to fly for an hour, then drive 4 hours back home that night, would you? I don't know about you, but I'll spend one of my Saturdays to make $900.
 
Yup. I've posted, and got negative responses, about spending some time to get a better deal. Too many people have said "I just accepted his deal because I didn't want to spend the time arguing"

As I've said, people fail to realize that saving $1,000 on a $30,000 car is the same as saving $1000 on a $1,500 TV. - don't tell me about 'percentage savings' is different by a fact of 20 - it's still an extra $1,000 in your pocket. Hypothetical - if I said I'll give you $900 to get on a plane in the morning to fly for an hour, then drive 4 hours back home that night, would you? I don't know about you, but I'll spend one of my Saturdays to make $900.

It may also be more about what the individual's time is worth than just the dollar amount.
 
Good point among others, Tchman. According to the following link the NJ registration should be $85 and the title transfer with lien an additionl $85 = $190. With no lien its $20 less.


The sales tax doesn't line up either. NJ sales tax on a vehicle is 6.625%. The stated tax implies a taxable amount of $33,660. While the following link is headed "casual sales" all indications are this rate applies to new car dealer sales:


NJ does not cap doc fees as in other states, e.g., NY caps at $75 and OH at $250. According to C&D, the average doc fee paid in NJ is $335:


Thanks all for the the input! It is getting very hard to get prices by email, or, on the phone -- even the online sales people insist on coming to the dealership. The only quotes I am getting are from PA dealerships, possibly the demand is not as strong. My quotes hover around 10% off MSRP (with the $1500 customer cash). I am trying to go lower but think 15% is going to be out of reach.
 
Yes, it's hard to get them to make you an offer over the phone or by text. However, I do it the other way as I've mentioned in previous posts. That is, I call or text them saying "I am ready to buy at this price tomorrow morning, if you can do that great, if not I respect your position But I'll have to keep on looking", it's at that point where they may actually make an offer over the phone. But be sure to get any additional dealer fees or add-ons that they put on the car.
 
Thanks all for the the input! It is getting very hard to get prices by email, or, on the phone -- even the online sales people insist on coming to the dealership.
A lot of dealers handle it that way because they want you in the shop to break down resistance on other prongs of their profit wheel besides the sales price of the vehicle: trade value, aftermarket add-ons not on the sticker, financing through them, extended warranties and insurance. If you don't have a trade your job is much easier.

The biggest problem is time. It's not unusual to spend several hours in a dealership before getting to a printout of the proposed bill of sale. Even if you're very firm on what you want and don't want, the dealer will drag his feet in the process to get you thinking, "how many dealers and how many hours will I have to go through if I walk out of this joint without the car?"

If you can't get quotes over the phone there's a choice to be made. How precious is your time and you tolerance for aggrevation? If after your research you determine what would be fair deal, how much extra time aggrevation are you willing to expend and tolerate in trying to get to a better deal?
 
Hi,

First time buying a Mazda looking for feedback on my 2020 CX-5 GT with GT Premium package offer:

MSRP: $35325
Selling Price: $33,200
Rebate: $1500
Net Price: $31700
Government Fee: $857
Total taxes: $2230
Total: 34787

I am in NJ if that matters. Should I pull the trigger?

Not sure why your sticker price is higher ... you have one of the premium paint colors and dealer addons like roof rails? Scroll down for my numbers (for whatever it’s worth).

Still, your final price is lower than I paid. What I’ve learned in the last few months is that there are so many factors that go into what sort of price you might get on any particular model, at any particular location, at any particular time ... is you can either wait an indefinite amount of time for the price on the vehicle you want to maybe go down (while continuing to pay for a vehicle you don’t want), or just compare the current prices and features of similar vehicles in a class available to you at your location, and pick the best value to you of those options.

** [Edited to add] That doesn’t mean I didn’t use the resources available to me (Consumer Reports, TrueCar, KBB, Edmunds, etc.), to determine the current fair-market-price range on my vehicle, in my zipcode, and use that information to back up my negotiation on price ... I was only able to drop my dealer about $900 off their offer but that was well within the reasonable range I was prepared to pay ... and doing the ‘walk away without the car’ thing wasn’t going to get me a much better deal, and whatever I might have gained would have cost me more in the end (my time most of all, but also more days in a rental car, etc. ... all while not being able to enjoy my new car).**

Yes, people have paid less than me, and some have paid more. But I know I got the best car for the money that was available to me in the few days I had to make a decision, and I’m still exceptionally happy with my purchase (and my first brand-new car).

I bought my 2020 CX-5 GT+PP in New Jersey (Hunterdon County) first week of July. My old car died so I was in a bind and didn’t have time to wait for a deal, or play dealers against each other. My out-the-door was $35,560 with no incentives, no trade-in, 0% / 60 month financing with no payments for 90 days — which means I still haven’t made that first payment yet (I will tomorrow).

Sticker: $34,435
Dealer Price: $32,518.39, + $449 Doc Fee.
Taxed Value: $32,967.30

These are the only legit State Taxes (i.e. “Government Fees” — a term that is complete BS):

NJ sales tax (6.625%): $2,184.08.
Title: $85 (1 Lien)
Registration: $311
(State law requires new cars to be registered for 4-years at sale, @ $84 / year, for the first two years, then $71.50 / year, for every year after — provided the GVWR is under 3,500 lbs.)
Temporary tag: $5
New Tire recycling surcharge: $7.50
(@ $1.50 per tire — and your car comes with 5)
5-Year inspection sticker: $0

Actual State Taxes and Fees: $2,592.58
 
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If that is the ridiculous case then he should be going out further to Georgia, Maryland, Virginia, Pensylvania, CT, Delaware etc. Plenty deals to be had. To save thousands you need to put the effort in and fly and drive ie drive there with a buddy to pick up.
So, to save a couple thousand over buying in the tri-state area, we should drive 2 hours to an airport, pay tolls, pay for airport parking, pay airfare for two, fly in the middle of a global pandemic, rent a car at our destination, pay for a couple of hotel rooms, drive around negotiating prices, buy a car, deal with the hassle of out of state registrations, inspections, and sales-taxes, get our friend to return our rental car, and ... finally ... drive the new car home ... how many miles? At what expense? At what time lost from gainful employment?

* CT is part of the tri-state area (along with NY and NJ); at least that’s how the phrase is used here.
 
Good point among others, Tchman. According to the following link the NJ registration should be $85 and the title transfer with lien an additionl $85 = $190. With no lien its $20 less
That’s accurate, and good info, but just need to point out that NJ requires purchasers of brand new vehicles prepay for 4-years worth of vehicle registration.
 
Hypothetical - if I said I'll give you $900 to get on a plane in the morning to fly for an hour, then drive 4 hours back home that night, would you? I don't know about you, but I'll spend one of my Saturdays to make $900.
Are you paying for my flight? (And all the other associated costs as I mentioned?)
 
Are you paying for my flight? (And all the other associated costs as I mentioned?)
if you're going to save $2,000 on the sale price, I would expect your days worth of expenses including Airline flight would be less than $1,100. There's your $900 made on a Saturday. Another option would be for someone to look only in their immediate area within 20 miles and then complain about the price
 
if you're going to save $2,000 on the sale price, I would expect your days worth of expenses including Airline flight would be less than $1,100. There's your $900 made on a Saturday. Another option would be for someone to look only in their immediate area within 20 miles and then complain about the price
Fair enough to say someone should definitely consider it if they have the time and the net profit seems worth it to them.

Question: How do you guarantee the price before flying out to the dealer? Buy it remotely, sight unseen?

Dealer knows you are from waaaaay out of state, that you invested that much time and money in getting there ... that whole “you didn’t gimme the price I wanted so I’m getting up and walking out the door” thing might not be as effective a negotiating tactic as it might be otherwise...
 
Maybe I've been hanging out at Miata.Net too much. We're always finding ways to get to parts of the country for the right car at the right price, including having pre-inspection done by fellow members
 
Fair enough to say someone should definitely consider it if they have the time and the net profit seems worth it to them.

Question: How do you guarantee the price before flying out to the dealer? Buy it remotely, sight unseen?

Dealer knows you are from waaaaay out of state, that you invested that much time and money in getting there ... that whole “you didn’t gimme the price I wanted so I’m getting up and walking out the door” thing might not be as effective a negotiating tactic as it might be otherwise...
Good questions. You'd also want to arrange your own financing in advance if not paying cash and if you want an extended warranty you'd want to price that out from a 3rd. party in advance. You would not want to be captive to what the dealer will offer in a vulnerable negotiating position.

Then there's the matter of the trade. You couldn't check it as baggage.

Speaking of trades, I'm sure I could save $1,500 or more selling my 10+ year old trades myself. For me that's not worth the time and especially the aggrevation as much as the time and aggrevation you describe. My wife and I took a day to drive 200 miles to make a deal with the price set in adavance and the trade TBD as to whether that would happen or not. I had an offer pending from a home town dealer on the old car if I couldn't get a matching offer in trade.

That's about the lengths I'll go to.
 
Been on the hunt for a touring cx5 for 26.1 in the tristate area. Some dealers have over 50+ 2020 tourings. INSANE. They must want them gone soon.
 
I'm looking to buy the first car of my life. I don't have any experience with negotiating, but I've been spending a lot of time getting quotes from different dealerships in the area. This one is the best I've gotten so far. I would appreciate your thoughts on whether it's actually any good:

2020 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD
Base MSRP: 28,230
Preferred Equipment Package: 1,375
Freight Delivery Change: 1,100
Total MSRP: 30,705

Dealer Discount: -2,115
2020 CX-5 Customer Cash: -1,500

Doc Fee: 150

Total Price: 27,240

I'll pay a sales tax of 10% for this price. I intend to keep this car for as many years as it lasts in reasonable shape, and I don't mind not getting the best deal. But I'm afraid of getting ripped off due to inexperience/lack of knowledge about the car-buying process.
 
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