What did you pay for your CX-5?

Now, that was back in April with $1,500 loyalty and $500 Healthcare worker, so I don't know that that's doable today.
That further reinforces my point aboiut regional differences. The only loyalty bonus I've seen in this area since that time was $500 or $700, I forget which since I did not quality, a like military bonus, a like "donate your car to charity" bonus and nothing for heathcare workers.
 
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When do you think these dealerships with +150 CX-5s will start trying to clear them? There's one in my local area with that many and about 7 of the same trims that I'm trying to buy. The lowest price I got quoted was $27,300 OTD from $29,305 MSRP for a CX-5 Touring with the preferred package, but that was for the Labor Day deal, which is now over. My assumption is that they'll start doing a fire sale of all the models once the 2021 models start rolling in the lot, and I'm aiming for the month/quarter-end in about a week or so to get a better deal.
As Hal2 said above, if that is literally out the door without a trade, the tax and whatnot gets you to something like 15% off MSRP. If it is actually $2,000 off MSRP before the other necessities and the inventories are as you said, you might do better. I'd track inventories for the make, options, etc. that you want. It doesn't do much good if they're lloaded to the gills with Sports but are skinny in the Tourings+ you don't want.
 
As Hal2 said above, if that is literally out the door without a trade, the tax and whatnot gets you to something like 15% off MSRP. If it is actually $2,000 off MSRP before the other necessities and the inventories are as you said, you might do better. I'd track inventories for the make, options, etc. that you want. It doesn't do much good if they're lloaded to the gills with Sports but are skinny in the Tourings+ you don't want.

Thanks for your thoughts guys!

Just talked to the dealership again and the price has been increased to $25,085 MSRP vs. the $24,381 MSRP previously, which comes out to around $28,000 OTD for me now. This is for the silver color, but they are loaded on the navy color that I would also be open to, which is around $400 extra due to the roof railing it comes with. The salesperson did offer to give me a better price if I do come in, so it's something that I'm considering as well.
 
I should have clarified, these were the all weather rubber mats, not the standard mats. Obviously regular floor mats are not optional 😜

If you asked, I’d tell you you’ll be happier with 3D MAXpider Kagu liners, anyway. A bit pricy perhaps, but seem a solid investment to me considering what I paid for the entire car and the level of protection they offer. Plus, they look and feel much better than rubber mats, and definitely compliment the Mazda’s surprisingly upscale interior far better than rubber mats, in my opinion (the latter seeming to me more suited for placement in work trucks).

Give them a look. There are some threads around. I’ve posted some pictures as well.

Enjoy the new ride!
 
The salesperson did offer to give me a better price if I do come in, so it's something that I'm considering as well.
How much better? Do you have to show up in person to find out? That’s seems odd. Someone bugging their phones? Seems if they had a better price, they’d tell you, to make sure you come in. 🤔

* I’ve only bought 2 cars from dealers in my entire life, so please understand I have no idea what I’m even talking about. 🙃
 
The salesperson did offer to give me a better price if I do come in, so it's something that I'm considering as well.

How much better? Do you have to show up in person to find out? That’s seems odd. Someone bugging their phones? Seems if they had a better price, they’d tell you, to make sure you come in. 🤔

* I’ve only bought 2 cars from dealers in my entire life, so please understand I have no idea what I’m even talking about. 🙃
They always want to get you on their lot if they can. Captive audience... sometimes quite literally! One old trick is to take your trade-in "to the back for inspection" leaving you trapped while they apply pressure. It's hard to get up and walk away when they have your keys and your car! Even in the most benign of outlooks, floor salespeople figure phone calls are just for getting leads into the dealership where they can lay on the charm.

But, most dealers have Internet departments now that will negotiate by email and phone. All of the Internet reps I've dealt with were not on commission and they know you're likely contacting several dealers the same way. So, they have to be more willing to deal "at arms length" (at least, if they want to beat the competition and make the sale).

We were very successful doing that on our latest CX-5 acquisition. Cross-shopped three or four dealers and ended up saving about $75 a month on a lease, from the highest to the lowest with the same "out of pocket" and lease terms. It helped that there was no trade-in, so everything was straight black & white, dollars & cents.
 
They always want to get you on their lot if they can. Captive audience... sometimes quite literally! One old trick is to take your trade-in "to the back for inspection" leaving you trapped while they apply pressure. It's hard to get up and walk away when they have your keys and your car! Even in the most benign of outlooks, floor salespeople figure phone calls are just for getting leads into the dealership where they can lay on the charm.

But, most dealers have Internet departments now that will negotiate by email and phone. All of the Internet reps I've dealt with were not on commission and they know you're likely contacting several dealers the same way. So, they have to be more willing to deal "at arms length" (at least, if they want to beat the competition and make the sale).

We were very successful doing that on our latest CX-5 acquisition. Cross-shopped three or four dealers and ended up saving about $75 a month on a lease, from the highest to the lowest with the same "out of pocket" and lease terms. It helped that there was no trade-in, so everything was straight black & white, dollars & cents.

I think you hit the nail on the head with this one. They know that people shop around, so they want you to come in to continue negotiating so that they have a better chance of closing. They're also sometimes less willing to give you a lower price on paper since you might use that to put dealers up against each other.

The price difference you get across different dealerships is ridiculous too! I've gotten almost a $2500 difference between the lowest and highest prices.

For me, I won't be trading in a car, so it'll be fairly easy for me to be in and out of the dealership.
 
I think you hit the nail on the head with this one. They know that people shop around, so they want you to come in to continue negotiating so that they have a better chance of closing. They're also sometimes less willing to give you a lower price on paper since you might use that to put dealers up against each other.

The price difference you get across different dealerships is ridiculous too! I've gotten almost a $2500 difference between the lowest and highest prices.

For me, I won't be trading in a car, so it'll be fairly easy for me to be in and out of the dealership.

After months of shopping around, I wanted to share with everyone my personal experience.

Once I decided that I wanted a CX-5 Touring with the preferred package, I emailed every dealership within a 50-mile distance to find the lowest price I could find. A dealership that was about 30 minutes away quoted me the lowest price of $24,300 for a Labor Day deal from an MSRP of $29,305. OTD came out to $27,300. At the moment, I had a gut feeling that prices would come down a bit lower toward the end of the month as the quarter/month comes to an end and the '21 models start rolling in.

I waited for a few more weeks and reached out to them again on Monday. Unfortunately, the dealership told me that the Labor Day deal was gone and that there were no additional incentives; the price went back up to $27,800. We went back and forth, and the final thing they told me was that they would give me a good deal if I came in this weekend. I was getting pretty exhausted from all the research I've been doing, so I decided to just go in with the hopes of getting the deal done at $27,700 OTD.

Yesterday, for some reason, I had a feeling that I should call up all the dealerships that I had talked to before one more time to see if they could give me an even better price. I mentioned the price I got to a local dealership (20 min away) and was told that they would match the price but would have to charge the $400 extra for the roof rack that the car would come with: MSRP of $29,705 and OTD of $28,200.

Similar to before, I had a number in mind going into the dealership: $27,500 OTD, but open to up to $27,700. The dealership offered me right at $27,700. Since I knew that this meant that they had some room to wiggle, I offered a price of $27,000. Of course, the response from the sales guy was terrible and he got pretty upset lol. Eventually, the manager was called and I was offered $100 more off to arrive at $27,600. I told him to split the difference, and we ended up settling at $27,300 OTD. Now, I'm a proud owner of a brand spanking new Silver CX-5 :)

I wanted to share this with all of you guys since this forum was incredibly useful in helping me think through the process! Thanks to everyone who helped, and thanks in particular to @zroger73 for helping me out via direct messages!

Good luck to you all with your CX-5 purchases and feel free to ask me any questions!
 
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After months of shopping around, I wanted to share with everyone my personal experience.

Once I decided that I wanted a CX-5 Touring with the preferred package, I emailed every dealership within a 50-mile distance to find the lowest price I could find. A dealership that was about 30 minutes away quoted me the lowest price of $24,300 for a Labor Day deal from an MSRP of $29,305. OTD came out to $27,300. At the moment, I had a gut feeling that prices would come down a bit lower toward the end of the month as the quarter/month comes to an end and the '21 models start rolling in.

I waited for a few more weeks and reached out to them again on Monday. Unfortunately, the dealership told me that the Labor Day deal was gone and that there were no additional incentives; the price went back up to $27,800. We went back and forth, and the final thing they told me was that they would give me a good deal if I came in this weekend. I was getting pretty exhausted from all the research I've been doing, so I decided to just go in with the hopes of getting the deal done at $27,700 OTD.

Yesterday, for some reason, I had a feeling that I should call up all the dealerships that I had talked to before one more time to see if they could give me an even better price. I mentioned the price I got to a local dealership (20 min away) and was told that they would match the price but would have to charge the $400 extra for the roof rack that the car would come with: MSRP of $29,705 and OTD of $28,200.

Similar to before, I had a number in mind going into the dealership: $27,500 OTD, but open to up to $27,700. The dealership offered me right at $27,700. Since I knew that this meant that they had some room to wiggle, I offered a price of $27,000. Of course, the response from the sales guy was terrible and he got pretty upset lol. Eventually, the manager was called and I was offered $100 more off to arrive at $27,600. I told him to split the difference, and we ended up settling at $27,300 OTD. Now, I'm a proud owner of a brand spanking new Silver CX-5 :)

I wanted to share this with all of you guys since this forum was incredibly useful in helping me think through the process! Thanks to everyone who helped, and thanks in particular to @zroger73 for helping me out via direct messages!

Good luck to you all with your CX-5 purchases and feel free to ask me any questions!
OTD price is meaningless here as taxes and fees vary between states. All that matters for us to compare prices is discount off MSRP.
 
I've been trying to tell people this, but all they seem interested in is out the door. They don't care if they get a great deal on a car and then pay $600 in dealer doc fee. But more importantly, an out the door discussion does nothing to help people who don't live in your same city
 
Looking for a little help evaluating this offer. I think it is pretty good for Pittsburgh, PA, but I figured I'd get a pulse check from the forum.

2020 CX-5 Grand Touring (AWD)
Color: Deep Crystal Blue Mica (Interior: Black)
Accessories: Wheel Locks

MSRP: $32,875.00
Discount: $2,246.00
Rebate: $1,500.00
Selling Price: $29,129.00
Taxes: $2,039.03
Govt. Fees: $188.47
Doc. Fees: $389.00
OTD Price: $31,745.50

This would be with 60 Month Financing @ 3.9% APR, which I'd pay off early (probably in 2.5 years - would only be financing $20,000 after my down payment). The best they were able to do for 60 Month/0% APR was a Selling Price of $30,629.00 ($33,350.50 OTD, 7% Sales Tax, Same Govt. and Doc Fees).

What do y'all think? I'm leaning towards taking it if they can throw in a few accessories (Rear Bumper Guard and Side Window Deflectors).
 
Seems like over 10% off. I would think that’s good
so basically the 0% is a scam.
they might be making the discount up on the interest rate.
 
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Have to include the dealer doc fee that's not a required tax or license. But still, that's 11% off. I would say don't count on any extras like bumper guards or wind deflectors. By the time you ask for those he already knows you want the car and that you're not going to walk because of it. Also, the way a dealership is set up, the sales department actually has to pay the parts department for anything like that. Perhaps though it is possible to be able to negotiate to buy them from Parts at cost, dunno
 
Seems like over 10% off. I would think that’s good
so basically the 0% is a scam.
they might be making the discount up on the interest rate.
No, not a scam. And, yes, of course they're making it up on the interest. It was a choice between 0% APR or $1,500 off. Pick one.

The 0% offer was actually the better deal if you're going to finance it full term. The interest at 3.9% for the stated $20,000 over the course of the loan is a little over $2,000. The more typical buyer is probably financing $30K, for over $3K in interest paid, or about double the "lost" incentive discount.

The prospect of paying the loan off early in 30-months (on $20K financed) may make taking the $1,500 the better deal by about $500 IF you follow through and actually do that (notice the big IF - best laid plans and all that)... though there is still an opportunity cost to shelling out the money early (that's difficult to calculate and depends on what else you do with it, investments and such).
 
I put 20% down (financed the rest at 0%).
In wondering if I might have been better trying to put less down. If I have an accident now, My car is worth either what I financed it for, or maybe a little more. My insurance will give me the cash value (prior to it getting totaled), plus up to 20 or 25% ... something like that, if needed to pay off the loan.

But since my loan is close to the cash value of the car, that’s all I’ll get.

I’ll loose my down payment entirely.

I’d have been much better off putting less down, and just sticking the cash instead in a savings or investing it. Then, if my car got totaled, I’d still be able to replace my car with a brand new one of the same type.

Stupid advice, “put 20% down”, I think. Sigh.
 
Stupid advice, “put 20% down”, I think. Sigh.
Okay, this hopefully makes you feel better about your choice..

Your math doesn't add up, unless you're talking about getting more because of gap insurance. Otherwise you get the same payout whether you owed more or less than the cars value.

Your total out of pocket is the same whether you finance some, none, or all of the car. If you have a $25k car and put 0 down and get in an accident, you have to come up with $25k to pay off the loan. If you paid cash for the car, you already paid the $25K. Financing any portion only changes whether your money is in the bank or already in the car.

Again, unless you're talking about less money out of pocket due to gap insurance, but you already said your loan is the same as the value so I assume no gap insurance.

Now, it's 6AM ad maybe I mis-understood or my brain isn't up yet
 
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