2007~2015 Car wouldn't start

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2007 Mazda CX-9 Touring
Today I go to the wholesale club 18 miles away. Car started and ran fine. I got home, an hour later when I tried to start the car I would hear one click and that is it. I first checked the battery with a multimeter and it read 12.1 volts and the green light was on the meter indicating a good battery. Then I used a battery tester which also indicated a good battery at about 68 percent. The ccas on the meter was reading 435 out of 700 cca s that the battery was rated at. Finally I used a jump pack which was barely alive and was able to get the car started. The alternator was reading 14.1-14.3 volts. Is the battery dead. It is a little bit over 3.5 years old, it's an interstate from Costco. I noticed the same thing happened to the battery from the Mazda dealer when he replaced the original Panasonic battery that came with the car. The Mazda replacement lasted only 3 years. Is this the new norm for car batteries. All input would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to find out if this is a battery issue or maybe something else.
 
Most likely a battery issue. Take CX9 to auto parts for a load test. Today's batteries seem to fail at
once rather than getting weak. If it truned over with a jump it likely a battery.
 
Today I go to the wholesale club 18 miles away. Car started and ran fine. I got home, an hour later when I tried to start the car I would hear one click and that is it. I first checked the battery with a multimeter and it read 12.1 volts and the green light was on the meter indicating a good battery. Then I used a battery tester which also indicated a good battery at about 68 percent. The ccas on the meter was reading 435 out of 700 cca s that the battery was rated at. Finally I used a jump pack which was barely alive and was able to get the car started. The alternator was reading 14.1-14.3 volts. Is the battery dead. It is a little bit over 3.5 years old, it's an interstate from Costco. I noticed the same thing happened to the battery from the Mazda dealer when he replaced the original Panasonic battery that came with the car. The Mazda replacement lasted only 3 years. Is this the new norm for car batteries. All input would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to find out if this is a battery issue or maybe something else.

3 years is about what I've been averaging with replacement batteries. I'm on my 3rd battery right now, and I'm about to go get my 4th. They all seem to fail in the same way - they still can start the car, but the starter doesn't turn over with the same urgency. If you try to start the engine multiple times in a short period of time, you get the click.

The severely depressed cranking amps is also typical. My last couple of batteries did that, too. I would take it to an auto parts store and have them test the voltage under load, it will probably drop way below 12v.
 
Yes, the battery sounds to be dead. You would need to do a load test on it; most likely will charge, but not be able to retain that charge from any period of time. For the age of your old battery, and the cheap cost of a new one, I would just change it.
 
Update: After sitting for 5 hours the car started no problem. I also used it again this morning. The first 3 times it started with no problem on the 4th start I heard one click. I smacked the remote lightly into the ignition switch cylinder a couple of times and it started right up. I am going to replace the battery as they are not that expensive. What I was wondering is could it be the ignition switch, the immobilizer or maybe a battery cable. I also have another question. When I insert the key the little car flashes it has been like that since new. Only when the car starts does it turn off is this normal or should the little car light stop flashing the moment I insert the key into the ignition, thanks again for the help.
 
Does your car have keyless start? Is the battery in the key fob old? Mine does weird things when the battery in the key starts to die.
 
Is the red light on the smart-key flashing? The fact that you say you hear a click would indicate a battery problem rather than a security problem or switch problem.
 
First check that the cable terminals are clean, dry, and tight.

Here's an easy charging system check. Get the battery fully charged, let it sit a couple of hours, then read the battery voltage. Start the engine. Read the battery voltage again. If the voltage is lower than before the engine was running, it's a problem in the charging system. If the voltage is higher with the engine running, the charging system is OK, and you may have a dying battery.
 
Does your car have keyless start? Is the battery in the key fob old? Mine does weird things when the battery in the key starts to die.
The battery Is new and I don't have keyless start. When I bought this car new I saw how things were and decided not to do anything electrically with it since it's mostly computerized, the only thing I added was rain deflectors on the doors. I usually change the battery on the remote when I start to not get long range out of it meaning I cannot open or close the doors from far away. For me this indicates that the battery is starting to go.
 
Is the red light on the smart-key flashing? The fact that you say you hear a click would indicate a battery problem rather than a security problem or switch problem.
The little red car flashes when I enter the car and when I insert the key in the ignition, once the car is started it turns off. I have a regular switch blade keyfob remote if that is what you are referring to .
 
First check that the cable terminals are clean, dry, and tight.

Here's an easy charging system check. Get the battery fully charged, let it sit a couple of hours, then read the battery voltage. Start the engine. Read the battery voltage again. If the voltage is lower than before the engine was running, it's a problem in the charging system. If the voltage is higher with the engine running, the charging system is OK, and you may have a dying battery.
I am going to buy a charger and try that and see what happens. I did this check once after jump starting the car and the voltage was higher than when I checked it before starting. Based on all of the replies it looks like a new battery is the direction this is pointing at.
 
Update: I went to costco before they closed. I found the battery paid for it. I was wondering to myself that this was too easy. Before i removed the old battery i removed the caps from the terminal of the new battery and check it with a dvom. The battery read 8.3 volts. I just put the new battery in the shopping cart and took it back home. I will go to costco today for a refund and i hope that they won't give me a problem. I had previously purchased 2 batteries from them with one being in the car that i want to replace and at the time of purchase they both read 12.1 volts. I can't believe i got a defective battery from them. I might have to go to autozone on the weekend and try there.
 
A battery that has been sitting for a long period can show low voltage. After a quick charge it can be as good as new.
 
I forgot to mention that the production date on the battery is may 2020. Is it normal for a battery to discharge that rapidly on a battery that is less than a month old? I also researched it and on the web they indicated that 5 percent is a normal discharge rate per month. This exceeds the 5 percent by plenty which is why i am taking it back. If there is any other input please feel free to share, thanks again.
 
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