Oil change drama

Yes your non turbo gets 0w-20 full synthetic.Turbos get 5w30 non syn.Makes no sense,would like to hear Mazda reasoning,my oil cap does not say syn.
 
Exactly CX5Nut. And, in case anyone has any misconceptions on the subject, 'complimentary' means cheap...not what you want, not what you tell them to put in, nor what is proper and best for your engine. FWIW, I never go back for any of their BS 'complimentary' anything. As I' d indicated elsewhere dealers will pump in (not pour in) what's in the their bulk barrels. Not what you requested, not what the engine requires. What's still cheapest in bulk? Yeah, 5W-30 conventional, so in it goes. They can code into their invoicing parts databases any bogus p/n and/or description they want that reports on your invoice...what's pumped in to your engine out of their limited selection of bulk barrels is an entirely different story. How many oil delivery systems do you think any given dealer has in their installed shop? Not as many as the various oils the plethora of vehicles they service require, guaranteed. You want to know for certain what goes in, buy it yourself and either watch them pour it in (good luck with that), or, do it yourself.
 
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I must be missing something here but our 2018 CX5's recommend oil is 0W-20; it even states it on the oil cap. And all 0w-20 oil is synthetic. So synthetic is the recommended oil. For those not getting synthetic when they take it to the dealer, what's printed on your oil cap?
”5W-30”!

OP has a 2.5T and 5W-30 is Mazda recommended viscosity. Unfortunately there’re too many 5W-30 conventional and blend oils available. And dealers like to use cheapest possible bulk oil, or use OEM Mazda 5W-30 “Super Premium” conventional oil, hence the discussion.
 
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Got it! I missed the Turbo part of it. But as others have said, it makes no sense. I've read about synthetics for years and there is a difference in the quality and protection of synthetic vs conventional oils. If I had a turbo, I'd bring in my own synthetic to be used at the dealer, or better yet do it myself!
 
No such thing as a free lunch.

I had a friend with a Camry and free oil changes for life. He insisted on regular changes at 3-5k miles.

His car developed a drain plug with stripped threads and after a particular oil change he was presented with a bill for oil pan replacement at almost $600.
 
No such thing as a free lunch.

I had a friend with a Camry and free oil changes for life. He insisted on regular changes at 3-5k miles.

His car developed a drain plug with stripped threads and after a particular oil change he was presented with a bill for oil pan replacement at almost $600.

And did your friend pay the bill or dispute it? I would love to hear the dealership attempt to explain that it was somehow your friend's fault, or that the oil pan is a wear-and-tear item. Lol
 
He just paid it and related the story to me later. I know there are various after market solutions less drastic than replacing the oil pan.

I guess they probably recovered all of the lost revenue from the 10+ years of 'free' oil changes.
 
No such thing as a free lunch.

I had a friend with a Camry and free oil changes for life. He insisted on regular changes at 3-5k miles.

His car developed a drain plug with stripped threads and after a particular oil change he was presented with a bill for oil pan replacement at almost $600.
The Toyota dealer who was doing the first free maintenance covered by Toyota’s new-vehicle 2-year free maintenance program to my 2018 Toyota Yaris iA somehow “damaged” the oil drain aluminum washer and caused slow leak. The engine would have been gone if I didn’t check the oil and added 2 quarts of oil during the trip from San Jose to LA after the oil change. Once I start to change the oil by myself after the factory free-maintenance program ended, I may find the thread of oil drain partially stripped based on this screw-up on a simple oil change by the Toyota dealer!

Then why didn’t I just DIY on the oil change to my Yaris? Because if I don’t let Toyota dealer do the free maintenance to have a record in Toyota’s system, I can see I’d have a hard time to get warranty coverage on certain issues. Of course laziness is another reason to let the dealer do the job. ;)
 
I found a rubber o-ring for Hondas at O'Reilly's and I wont be buying any more aluminum 'crush' washers. They are 14mm and I've re-used one for several oil changes with no drip.
 
He just paid it and related the story to me later. I know there are various after market solutions less drastic than replacing the oil pan.

I guess they probably recovered all of the lost revenue from the 10+ years of 'free' oil changes.

I might be overly cynical here, but one other thing to consider is whether the threads were even stripped to begin with. There is a possibility that the oil pan was perfectly fine, and wasn't even actually replaced - they just added it to the work order and kept the car in the shop a little longer. I've actually heard of this happening at other shops.

Unfortunately some shops, whether they are dealerships or independents, really take advantage of customers who don't know any better.
 
I found a rubber o-ring for Hondas at O'Reilly's and I wont be buying any more aluminum 'crush' washers. They are 14mm and I've re-used one for several oil changes with no drip.
In theory, regular rubber can’t stand the heat like aluminum. It’s easier to age and crack than aluminum too. IMO I’d prefer one-time-use aluminum or copper (in old days) drain plug “crush” washer and use correct torque to tighten the plug up.
 
I doubt Honda specs an o-ring that can't stand the heat. I have used and re-used them and they don't crack or leak.

The package had 5 of them for $3-4 or so.

I like Mazda but sometimes I wonder.
Why spec a conventional oil for a turbo?
Why not specify regular brake fluid change?
 
Mostly because its typical american made story to have 5w30 conventional :)
In Europe almost all 5w oil is fully syntetic for ages now. When you buy 5w30 or 5w40 it comes in synthetic form.
The so called blend here is called semi syn everywhere else and is usually 10w40 form. Conventional is called mineral and usually 15w40.
Have you seen 0w60 oil as well here...

It classical marketing tricks here, call it blend, sell it cheap, CAFE standards, etc. + dealership incompetence to the max. Not to mention the difference in oil as well.
 
@MyFirstMazda

/devil's advocate because the conversation isn't muddy enough :)
I think the 3000 mile or 3 month suggestion for oil changes might be a bit outdated; and a bit generic recommendation.


/tldr;
no one rule is not gonna cover 100% use cases worldwide
driving conditions / driving behavior ~may~ lead to more frequent intervals
use a quality oil
follow manufacture recommendations (not the dealer)
will changing the oil more frequently be harmful? if done correctly no; just more wasteful and costly.

-- side note I might suggest viewing ProjectFarm as what oil actually performs well.
 
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