Window problem

:
Mazda CX-5 GT AWD
Hey everyone, I have a 2016.5 GT AWD and if my window (front driver side) is open approx 1"-3" it rattles or vibrates inside the window track. It's very annoying and the only way to make it go away is to bring the window down at least halfway or all the way down.

Is this normal for you guys too?

I guess I should check the passenger window to see if it has the same problem...Thanks
 
Hey everyone, I have a 2016.5 GT AWD and if my window (front driver side) is open approx 1"-3" it rattles or vibrates inside the window track. It's very annoying and the only way to make it go away is to bring the window down at least halfway or all the way down.

Is this normal for you guys too?

I guess I should check the passenger window to see if it has the same problem...Thanks

Does not sound normal. You should check if something is stuck in the track. Example- sounds like part of the dealer sticker got stuck in there and flaps when its windy. Otherwise let the dealership inspect it.
 
Thanks, I figured it cant be normal.

But I know for sure its not the dealer sticker because I removed it. Also it isn't a flapping noise.
When I have the window rolled down just a crack, I can replicate the "tapping" noise by pushing back and forth on the window.

Making a trip to the dealer isn't something I want to do, especially when I've only had the car for a month.
 
The door card has to be removed and I suspect you will discover the thin plastic sheet has come lose and all you have to do is push it to reattach it to the sticky putty. This is easy to do and all you may need I think is a Phillip screwdriver.
 
How in the world did you get from here: if my window (front driver side) is open approx 1"-3" it rattles or vibrates inside the window track. It's very annoying and the only way to make it go away is to bring the window down at least halfway or all the way down. to there: I suspect you will discover the thin plastic sheet has come lose and all you have to do is push it to reattach it to the sticky putty.???????????????????????????(scratch)
 
How in the world did you get from here (?) : It happened to me with my Honda that's how.
 
Thanks for the info! (drinks)That sounds exactly like what I am experiencing.

Guess ill be making that phone call to the dealership...
 
Good day

I had this happen in a 2015 GT, right from the beginning and I took it in and the dealer fixed it almost 2 years ago. For the past few months I've noticed it again and will have to get it looked at next time it is in.
 
My brother had the same issue in his 2015. The dealer had to fix / reinforce the window tracks. Not sure exactly how, but it worked and he is happy.
 
Same issue

Hey everyone, I have a 2016.5 GT AWD and if my window (front driver side) is open approx 1"-3" it rattles or vibrates inside the window track. It's very annoying and the only way to make it go away is to bring the window down at least halfway or all the way down.

Is this normal for you guys too?

I guess I should check the passenger window to see if it has the same problem...Thanks

Have any of you had any luck with the window getting fixed? I have a 2016 with 6k miles with the same issue. I have brought it in 4 times. I think they have only listed 2-3 times due to I had brought the car back the very next day. It is doing it still and it is SO frustrating. The dealership techs have advised me that they have never heard one as loud as mine. (notcool) answer.
 
Have any of you had any luck with the window getting fixed? I have a 2016 with 6k miles with the same issue. I have brought it in 4 times. I think they have only listed 2-3 times due to I had brought the car back the very next day. It is doing it still and it is SO frustrating. The dealership techs have advised me that they have never heard one as loud as mine. (notcool) answer.
Had mine fixed a while back. Used to rattle when open 2 inches. Now after the channel pinching fix, it rattles when opened at 1 inch and 3 inches, but no more at the 2 inch mark. Dumb!
 
Had mine fixed a while back. Used to rattle when open 2 inches. Now after the channel pinching fix, it rattles when opened at 1 inch and 3 inches, but no more at the 2 inch mark. Dumb!

(screwy) It is just ridiculous. They have got to figure out how to fix this. I bought a black CX-5 and it gets so hot down here in Louisiana. I have to be able to crack my window. I can even hear it move in the door sometimes when the window is closed. Since the last time it was in the shop around a week ago now I have bad wind noise when the window is all the way up or window shaking a rattling if partially down. Just down right unbelievable. They already had to change the piece around my radio due to the vinyl/leather peeling up. That is why I brought it the last time when I did so they could again attempt to fix it. They had my car for 3 days then I picked it up and it was still rattling horribly so I brought it back that evening. They didn't even open another ticket. I guess they didn't want a record of it having to go back in for the same problem again. (mad)
 
I've accessed both 13 and 16 models on the these Mazda doors 8 times in the last 2 weeks working on projects. Each time I place the door panel back I double check for "pinches" and ensure the window goes up and down smoothly. If it pinches I just readjust the rubber/felt channel thingy whatever its called. It has to be lined up correctly otherwise you'll hear a cracking sound. This rubber part is attached via plastic tabs unto the plastic door panel WHILE also pinched into alignment on top of the metal door frame. I suspect some having problems with their windows involve this part not being secure. Again it needs to be correctly/firmly secure to both the metal door frame and the plastic door panel. The earlier 13 models are actually easier to work on imho.

The actual window regulator is bolted onto the metal door with 3 bolts. It was on there pretty tight and I can't imagine it being loose. If so then it's an easier to fix than having to secure the rubber/felt runner adjustment as noted above. That said I can totally see a Mazda tech get frustrated and be satisfied with a partial fix due to not having everything lined up correctly. You have to hold the plastic door panel in the air next to the door, ensure the wire connects are plugged giving you about 3 inches of slack, oh and make sure the door handle doesn't fall off (it does), you have to angle the rubber/felt channel correctly unto the metal door frame. All of this at once!!!

The first time I did this it took me a good 2-3 hours just to get this one part right. After doing it 8 times (2 cars) I can do this one part in about 20-30 minutes now. Most time consuming part of taking apart/reinstalling the door.
 
I've accessed both 13 and 16 models on the these Mazda doors 8 times in the last 2 weeks working on projects. Each time I place the door panel back I double check for "pinches" and ensure the window goes up and down smoothly. If it pinches I just readjust the rubber/felt channel thingy whatever its called. It has to be lined up correctly otherwise you'll hear a cracking sound. This rubber part is attached via plastic tabs unto the plastic door panel WHILE also pinched into alignment on top of the metal door frame. I suspect some having problems with their windows involve this part not being secure. Again it needs to be correctly/firmly secure to both the metal door frame and the plastic door panel. The earlier 13 models are actually easier to work on imho.

The actual window regulator is bolted onto the metal door with 3 bolts. It was on there pretty tight and I can't imagine it being loose. If so then it's an easier to fix than having to secure the rubber/felt runner adjustment as noted above. That said I can totally see a Mazda tech get frustrated and be satisfied with a partial fix due to not having everything lined up correctly. You have to hold the plastic door panel in the air next to the door, ensure the wire connects are plugged giving you about 3 inches of slack, oh and make sure the door handle doesn't fall off (it does), you have to angle the rubber/felt channel correctly unto the metal door frame. All of this at once!!!

The first time I did this it took me a good 2-3 hours just to get this one part right. After doing it 8 times (2 cars) I can do this one part in about 20-30 minutes now. Most time consuming part of taking apart/reinstalling the door.

I am going to bring it back to the dealership in the next week or so. I am not going to do anything to it myself. It is their responsibility. I have videos but having problems uploading them. The window itself is real loose. They have pulled it part several times and added some cushion strip per the bulletin but it didn't help so they added 2. Still not right. The glass beats on the metal of the door. 😞
 
I am going to bring it back to the dealership in the next week or so. I am not going to do anything to it myself. It is their responsibility. I have videos but having problems uploading them. The window itself is real loose. They have pulled it part several times and added some cushion strip per the bulletin but it didn't help so they added 2. Still not right. The glass beats on the metal of the door. 😞

For sure take it to the dealership. My bumper to bumper warranty is expired so I'm in a different boat. Just letting folks know correcting this issue can be "tedious". In your particular case I really think they should just order new parts if the "fix" does not correct the issue.
 
I had mine in for the 24 month service yesterday and the 2015 is covered by the TSB mentioned earlier - they've ordered parts in and will fix it. Interestingly, the first time I took it in (late 2014) there were no parts ordered for it. It sure helps when you can refer to a TSB - thanks to this forum.

On a side note to an earlier post - I was told in April I'll need new rear brakes, this time they did the brake service and said the pads were only worn 1mm (so only about 30% of its life at 29,000km) - so that made me happy. But now I wonder which one was right!?!
 
Back