ATF...Change or not?

I plan on doing an ATF drain and refill at my dealer soon at 50k miles.

Wondering if there have been any transmission issues among those with high mileage and no fluid change?
 
A simple drain and fill is even easier then an oil change, because there's no filter to deal with.
Any reputable shop should charge the same labor rate as they do an oil change.
 
A simple drain and fill is even easier then an oil change, because there's no filter to deal with.
Any reputable shop should charge the same labor rate as they do an oil change.

While I have yet to do a drain and fill on my CX, I doubt that it's as easy as an oil change.

With an oil change one doesn't have to mess with the air box or a hard to get to filler port that requires a long funnel of some sort. One also doesn't have to worry about checking the fluid level while making sure that the engine is at the proper temperature.

As I said, I've not done it and I don't anticipate it being difficult, it's just not going to be as easy as an oil change.
 
While I have yet to do a drain and fill on my CX, I doubt that it's as easy as an oil change.

With an oil change one doesn't have to mess with the air box or a hard to get to filler port that requires a long funnel of some sort. One also doesn't have to worry about checking the fluid level while making sure that the engine is at the proper temperature.

As I said, I've not done it and I don't anticipate it being difficult, it's just not going to be as easy as an oil change.
Worst part is taking the bottom cover off, and you need to fuss with trans oil temperature unless you're just swapping 3.5 qts. with 3.5 qts. Agreed, an engine oil change is easier.
 
⋯ unless you're just swapping 3.5 qts. with 3.5 qts.
I believe it’s about 3.72 ~ 3.75 quarts needed for proper ATF fill. Remember the factory most likely had under-filled the transmission. Here from Kedis82ZE8’s report he needed 3.72 quarts to refill for a simple drain-and-fill, while the first drain from the factory fill is only 3.4 quarts.

Transmission fluid change without filter replacement
 
I recently purchased a 2018 GT from a friend. It has 102,000 miles on it. Most all are road miles as his wife had a daily 100 mile commute to work. They purchased it new and all maintenance has been done at dealership. They gave the service records to me. Oil changed every 5000 miles, filters at regular intervals. At 90,000 miles they had new belts, battery, plugs, and induction service done. My question is the AT fluid was never changed. With these amount of miles should I do a drain and refill, or leave well enough alone. Transmission shifts fine.
Now, I know in Asia most shops and some dealerships would not recommend changing out Trans fluid after 150k km which is around 93k miles. The reason is gaps already happened in the transmission, draining out the old replace it with a new one might cause the gear to slip. I don't have proof of this, that is just want I heard!
I would just leave it alone if there's no problem currently; if you want peace of mind you can drain out a little and refill that same amount and see how it feels. Do Not use a machine to flush it! most of the members here told me that plus the Mazda dealers in another country.
 
So at 60K I just did my first drain and fill. 3.8QT came out and I refill it with 4QT. That 0.2 QT is probably not gonna do anything. I don't feel any harm with my buttdyno anyways lol.

I had to say after replacing the fluid. The car drives better as OE feels. (maybe it's all in my head)

I notice that the OE crush washer is painted black if you bought a used Mazda and not sure if trans fluid is changed. you can look and see if the OE rush washer is still in place, if so I would say the fluid is probably untouched!

In my case, the fluid did come out black to redish. but when I wipe the drain bucket clean it still looks blueish-black on the white towels.

I think my OE filled was at the max line. most people here said they are low from OE fill. I will try to attach an image to see if yall think OE was filled right.


now I did not have the proper tools to check if my trans is at 122 degrees. I just let it heat up for 15 min with a timmer. When I was changing the fluid outside temp was 105F degrees Texas is really hot lol.
 
This is that BG products adapter I pointed out 4 years ago




IMG_1383.jpeg
 
While I have yet to do a drain and fill on my CX, I doubt that it's as easy as an oil change.

With an oil change one doesn't have to mess with the air box or a hard to get to filler port that requires a long funnel of some sort. One also doesn't have to worry about checking the fluid level while making sure that the engine is at the proper temperature.

As I said, I've not done it and I don't anticipate it being difficult, it's just not going to be as easy as an oil change.

I have done it, a couple of times, and yes it's easier than an oil change. If it wasn't, I wouldn't have made the claim.
 
So at 60K I just did my first drain and fill. 3.8QT came out and I refill it with 4QT. That 0.2 QT is probably not gonna do anything.

I think my OE filled was at the max line. most people here said they are low from OE fill.

now I did not have the proper tools to check if my trans is at 122 degrees. I just let it heat up for 15 min with a timmer. When I was changing the fluid outside temp was 105F degrees Texas is really hot lol.
Are you sure you’d followed Mazda’s proper procedure to check the ATF level? Did you check the ATF level with the engine idling?

A86FA433-C68F-4453-AD22-7802F181DE3D.jpeg

53558BF0-C988-44CA-A929-CB14171597DF.jpeg


Here @FerrariF1 originally thought his ATF level from factory was fine with engine stopped on his CX-5 2.5T. Once he rechecked with engine idling, he needed about 600ml (0.635 quart!!!) to bring the ATF level to the Full mark (although the ideal level should be at the middle block area). Mazda under-filled the ATF in his transmission as usual at the factory. That’s why you don’t re-fill the same amount of fresh ATF as drained ATF because the factory fill usually is too low.

He also did an experiment and found the differences on ATF level in different ATF temperatures on his CX-5 with 2.5T:

EED48F91-C544-48C6-9E40-A12C88615A16.gif


You guys were right, I checked the ATF while idling and it was low. The ATF was at around 25-30 C (77-86 F). I added 600ml and it came up to the middle of the 2 lines, so perfect. I don't think ATF expansion is that great that I need to check at 122F, and I'm guessing if I were to check at 122F it would be closer to the top line.

I also changed the rear diff and front transfer case, and they both took about 0.5L each. Not too complicated.

Update: I warmed up the transmission fluid to 51C / 123F and re-checked level (car idling, level surface) and it was just below the Full line. MS Paint artwork attached.

Summary: added 600ml to factory fluid to bring it up to full level. I did not drain and fill since car has 30K km / 18K miles.

View attachment 320332
View attachment 320245
 
Are you sure you’d followed Mazda’s proper procedure to check the ATF level? Did you check the ATF level with the engine idling?

View attachment 320698
View attachment 320699

Here @FerrariF1 originally thought his ATF level from factory was fine with engine stopped on his CX-5 2.5T. Once he rechecked with engine idling, he needed about 600ml (0.635 quart!!!) to bring the ATF level to the Full mark (although the ideal level should be at the middle block area). Mazda under-filled the ATF in his transmission as usual at the factory. That’s why you don’t re-fill the same amount of fresh ATF as drained ATF because the factory fill usually is too low.

He also did an experiment and found the differences on ATF level in different ATF temperatures on his CX-5 with 2.5T:

View attachment 320700
first time doing transmission fluid change so I'm not sure if I checked right.
before the fluid change, I let the car run for 5 minutes then put the car on neutral and ebrake then checked the level marked in the picture. checked again with the gear in neutral now at 15 minutes the level is where I marked.

after the fluid change, let the car run for 15 minutes then put the car in neutral and ebrake
I don't have a device to measure atf temp so I didn't do that just let the car run for 15 minutes.

correct me if I did anything wrong.

here is the level
 
first time doing transmission fluid change so I'm not sure if I checked right.
before the fluid change, I let the car run for 5 minutes then put the car on neutral and ebrake then checked the level marked in the picture. checked again with the gear in neutral now at 15 minutes the level is where I marked.

after the fluid change, let the car run for 15 minutes then put the car in neutral and ebrake
I don't have a device to measure atf temp so I didn't do that just let the car run for 15 minutes.

correct me if I did anything wrong.

here is the level
But did you check the ATF level while the engine is idling?
 
I got some pushback when I attempted to order one a few years back. Perhaps I will try again.
 
I got some pushback when I attempted to order one a few years back. Perhaps I will try again.
I think this adapter is useful only if you have a commercial ATF flush machine ($$$) to hook up. Not much useful for a DIYer.
 
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