What have you done to your MSP today?

Do the Escape endlinks they said. It'll be fun they said. I must have missed where they said it would be over an inch longer than stock. I did like that they are cheaper, but they are no beefier than the correct part number Moog links going on the back, so I'd imagine the correct Moog front part would be fine and a much easier install, but whatevs. I've only done the drivers side front and back at this point as the battery on my impact seems to be taking a dump, but I'm sure it will be better than the snapped one in the rear and the bent one in the front I took off today. Passenger side tomorrow...
 
Started the passenger side endlink job this morning and learned a valuable lesson. Check the items in the boxes before you start the job. I was shipped a counterfeit Moog link for the rear. Luckily, I at least looked at it before I tore the rear apart. The difference was apparent as soon as I pulled the part out of the box. Shaft diameter was comparable to OEM and nowhere near as thick as the actual Moog. The Moog part has grease fittings and and lands to place an 18mm wrench when tightening. The counterfeit has the allen key deal in the end and no grease fittings. Upon further inspection, the part number on the box was actually printed on the flap while all of the genuine Moog parts had the part number printed on sticker labels that were applied to the flap. I did do the front first so only one more to do and I will be done with endlinks. I also took the opportunity to throw on my old anodized blue gorilla lugs as the car was missing two and had a mix and match set of short and tall acorns. The blue was a nice accent on my blue RX8, but stands out like a sore thumb against spicy orange. Not sure I dig it as it comes off a bit to ricey, but it is what I have for now.
 
You must have not gotten the correct escape endlinks, I installed them years ago but they were the same length as the stock links.
 
Maybe. Part number was one I found on here in multiple threads. K80104 for 01-04 Escapes.

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Parked it! Threw in some new plugs the other day but soon got a flashing cel. Tried to get a borrowed autel to read it but no good. Suspect its the ignition coils and wires as both are OE with 136,300 miles on them. Up until a month or so ago I never had a problem with misfires. Also over due on replacing fuel pump. Have to figure out ABS/Brake light situation as well. Car was running great up until the other day. So it will sit until some parts get ordered and installed.
 
You can check the ABS code with a jumper wire, just ground out one of the pins in the ABS connector on the driver's side near the firewall. I can't believe you have never had to replace the coil packs, I've had to replace mine multiple times on both MSPs. Why do you suspect your fuel pump needs to be replaced?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2TZhG3bFao
 
I thought the fuel pump was 100K service item? But so far mine has not given me a problem.

Guess I've been lucky with my OE parts so far. Have you ever used the Beck Arnley coils or always just replaced with more Hitachi's?

Thanks for the ABS tip.
 
im using the coil packs from autozone which are about 25 a pop. they work fine for me.
 
I'm getting closer and closer to starting work on the msp. Just finishing my brother's car, then my dads and it's onto my car. I'm excited to drive a msp again, and a manual...and a turbo car.
 
I've been quite busy restoring Blazing Yellow MSP #249 back to it's glory. I started by cutting out the rear wheel well rust and welding in fresh sheet metal:



I then came up with the best solution in my mind to cover to the repair, I also decided to paint the hood Satin black to match since it had so many chips and it was repainted at one time which resulted in a horrible paint match I feel the results are much better now:

 
Ordered Beck Arnley coils, wire set and 2 Bando belts from amazon. The Hitachi's went up since I last checked and I used to use a lot of Beck Arnley products on my turbo Probe. Still need some more parts but these should at least solve the flashing CEL for now.
 
The coils are a toss up, I usually pick up a couple used coils whenever I got to the junkyard and swap them whenever they fail. I have a pile of them in my toolbox. Same with the solenoids on the IM since the OEM ones are ~$100.


I fixed the ABS in the forged MSP, #1345. It has been on since I replaced the axles. I replaced the RF sensor and it was still throwing the code so yesterday I swapped the ABS tone ring from the old OEM axle to the new axle and viola the light went off. I tested the ABS and it is working, now I can replace my flat spotted tires from when the brakes locked up a few weeks back.
 
A couple weeks ago my replacement Kicker comp 8" sub I had in the stock sub box went out. The wires going into the cone broke, the sub is about 10 years old so I got my use out of it. I bought a Dual voice coil Kicker 8 at 4ohm because the stock kenwood amp is 4ohm amp (but not 2ohm stable). I tried running the sub at 2ohm but the fuse blew almost immediately. I hooked up just one of the voice coils to make it a 4ohm load and the amp puts out right at half of what the sub is rated so it should be perfect for running one coil. It sounded good but the fuse blew again yesterday after working fine for a few days. I went ahead and bought a 4 ohm Rockford Fosgate P1 single voice coil sub last night and will return the Kicker DVC. Hopefully it won't pop the fuse.
 
I've been quite busy restoring Blazing Yellow MSP #249 back to it's glory. I started by cutting out the rear wheel well rust and welding in fresh sheet metal:

I then came up with the best solution in my mind to cover to the repair, I also decided to paint the hood Satin black to match since it had so many chips and it was repainted at one time which resulted in a horrible paint match I feel the results are much better now:

that's pretty clever dude.
 
On the road again after installing new coils and wires then resetting the pcm.

Took it out for a spin and it ran great.
 
Today I looked at my busted MSP (bought of my brother after sitting for 2+ years) got tired of dealing with the stuttering every time I push the gas. I checked it and realized there is a gorilla glued sensor and a broken hose located on top of the head gasket. Time to self teach mechanics. Changed MAS (still stutters) 👎👎
 
1552 received a new clutch master and slave yesterday. FYI, this is a two person job unless you like to cuss. A lot. Main issue was getting the rod from the pedal into the piston while mounting. Once you get past that, it isn't that bad other than getting to the nut at the top of the master located above the pedal inside the car. I still need to bleed the system, but by the time I got it all back together, I was done physically. Don't get old and fat people. Hopefully this resolves my hard to shift issue as the problem doesn't occur when the car is turned off. Next step if it doesn't resolve it is the pressure plate so new clutch time. It needs one anyway...
 
Today I looked at my busted MSP (bought of my brother after sitting for 2+ years) got tired of dealing with the stuttering every time I push the gas. I checked it and realized there is a gorilla glued sensor and a broken hose located on top of the head gasket. Time to self teach mechanics. Changed MAS (still stutters) ����

Try new coil packs and wires, probably needs new plugs too. NGK ZFR6F plugs are what you can easily find at the parts store, MAKE SURE YOU GAP THEM to .028" as they will come gapped .044". Won't hurt to clean the MAF as well, even if it is new.
 
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