What have you done to your MSP today?

I have only tried to remove the turbine housing once and I stopped after both bolts I attempted to remove snapped, even after WD40 and sitting overnight. Definitely need to torch them before removal.


My clutch is installed and trans is bolted up to the forged motor. The oil pump pickup screen was damaged from shipping so I ordered an oil pickup gasket from Mazda and will be swapping that and the lower oil pan onto the motor whenever it comes in. AWR rear motor mount came in, bought a kartboy shifter here on the forum, probably going to order a manifold soon as I don't really have many options and I am tired of dealing with the callaway manifolds.
 
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attended an open track event on saturday at NCCAR. had a great instructor that helped me with my line. i went off the course on my last run because i was getting too excited lol. ran off to the left of the track while doing a 180 sliding back on the track and ending up on the right side of the track. more pics coming soon. a few of us are pitching in to buy pictures from the photographers onsite to bring the price down.

friend's m4 eating everyone up on the straight away lol

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If anyone has some low milage yellowspeed ir bcracing coils, im in the market.
 
Just a quick update.. I'm making a little progress.. I am pulling the harmonic balancer and all the timing stuff tonight. Gonna have to get it on the engine stand without a hoist. I will be doing that with a jack, a few blocks of wood, jackstands and two palets. Gonna be primitive.. but its going to happen one way or another. lol

I'm replacing the water pump, changing out the oil pump for the one I bypassed, then flipping it over and pulling the pan, the MSBP, and checking oil clearances. I'm hoping to find good clearance obviously. It was from a non-turbo 626, so I think I might be alright. We'll see. Worst case, I'll change the bearings out..

 
OThree.5 said:
Just a quick update.. I'm making a little progress.. I am pulling the harmonic balancer and all the timing stuff tonight. Gonna have to get it on the engine stand without a hoist. I will be doing that with a jack, a few blocks of wood, jackstands and two palets. Gonna be primitive.. but its going to happen one way or another. lol

I'm replacing the water pump, changing out the oil pump for the one I bypassed, then flipping it over and pulling the pan, the MSBP, and checking oil clearances. I'm hoping to find good clearance obviously. It was from a non-turbo 626, so I think I might be alright. We'll see. Worst case, I'll change the bearings out..

Click to expand...
Don't install oil pump until you have checked your bears and know it's alright.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
 
hornsfan10609 said:
I have only tried to remove the turbine housing once and I stopped after both bolts I attempted to remove snapped, even after WD40 and sitting overnight. Definitely need to torch them before removal.
Click to expand...

Two bolts for the clamps broke, but I can extract those. My problem was getting the exhaust housing separated from the CHRA after the clamps were loosened. The heatshield was rusted and seized. I soaked it in PB overnight, got out the torch to heat the exhaust housing and gave a few whacks with a hammer and it separated. Got it cleaned up, boxed and shipped to Garrett Tuesday and tracking shows that it'll arrive today. Once it's inspected and verified to be a rebuildable core, they'll ship a new one to me. I'd love to be able to get it before next weekend.

Before I removed the turbo assembly last weekend, I inspected for the coolant leak from the rear and it looks to be coming from one of the heater hoses. I didn't investigate too much as I'd have to allow the engine to run for a few minutes before the leak starts and had the intentions of pulling the manifold off, so figured I'd not get the components 300* before handling them.

I've got multiple heater hoses- in fact, I keep pretty much all the molded hoses from all the FS' I've had over the years.

I need to install the t-bolt clamps on the charge piping, install the new tires onto the P5 wheels, transfer them and securely install the AFC. At that point it's only waiting on the turbo! Gentlemen, it's getting close.

Really would love to find a new manifold before the CHRA get's here, because my stock manifold, while it's being used, is cracked, but not completely through yet. I have a new eBay manifold, but opted not to install it initially and still don't think I ever will.

The P5, hopefully, will be getting all the leftovers from the MSP and will get a turbo and that manifold installed at some point after the MSP is complete. The P5 is a great daily driver and I don't want to go crazy with it. It'll basically be stock setup and stock boost. Just because I have all of the parts except for a turbo and the ECM. Maybe keep the AFC from the MSP when it hopefully get's its upgrade. Just ideas.
 
Can anyone blast me the length i should make front endlinks if lowered 2" from stock? Rear length helpful too but i wont have bushings for that one for a bit.

Edit: Msp front swaybar endlink length 10.5"
Rear endlink length 8" +\- droprate.

Gonna get under her and try to find the weird rattles and squeeks it makes at cruise heh. I can hear something right behind the passenger firewall that sounds loose.

All the struts pretty bad now. Car wallows around. Needs tires and brakes first though.
 
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No plans this weekend, so I should get the tires, charge pipe clamps and AFC knocked out.



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My oil pressure gauge, oil pressure regulator, block off plate and a bunch of fittings showed up. I got the motor on the stand and drained last night. I'm checking main and crankshaft bearing clearances tonight and figuring out if I wanna replace them. If I am in the .0015 ish range for clearance, I'm not changing bearings. If I'm looking closer to the .002 side, I feel like I won't have a choice but to replace them.

Lots of stuff to do.. Hoping for the best in there. (nailbyt)
 
The charge piping is securely and installed. At least on the cold side. The hot side has been cut and mocked into place before the manifold was removed. The only thing left from my original FMIC install from 2011 is the core now.

Since I have the compressor housing off of the turbo, I've been thinking about polishing it, so it adds some blingy shininess to the bay. I wanted to install my Technafit SS clutch line this weekend, but totally forgot about it.

I could have gotten all the small pending tasks done this weekend, but it was really nice outside, so I loaded the bike into the P5 and rode for a few hours this weekend.
 
I added some bling myself. I finished checking tolerances, installed the bypassed oil pump, degreased the block, wire brushed it, degreased it again, rinsed, dried, primed and painted. I think it came out pretty good. Now if something makes a mess in there, I will know its something new and not just old crap. I also pulled the VIN off the block and traced the car back to a 2001 2.0L 626 LX. (just out of curiousity)







The primer is not optional in my opinion.
 
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What are you doing about your oil return?

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This MBSP installed is from the 626. Its just keeping dirt out right now. I'm tapping a fitting into the MSP's and transferring it over. I'm also bringing over the head, all the accessories.. basically everything. Just using the bottom end of this motor.

However, I think I might tap fittings on both sides of this 626 MBSP later down the road, to relocate the turbo drain on the front more towards the drivers side of the car. As you already know, the pope downpipe has like 2mm of clearance (maybe less) and I would like more room / less heat

Here's what I'm thinking on the 626 MBSP:

 
that silver almost looks blue? looks good though and no, primer is never optional with any paint project you want to last more than a season. id use an etch primer or epoxy on bare metal.

as for swapping mbsp... all i did on my p5 was drill a 9/16 hole and run a 3/8 npt tap through it. did it in the car even, dropped the pan and just used a ton of grease inside and outside, drilled slow. no problems at all with the fitting and i think it cost me under $10. id almost leave the msp one out as you prob plan to do a engine build? might as well just have that engine all fully assembled on the bench so you dont have to dick around swapping anything later.

just me though. since you will have the trans out its no big deal to swwap the plate, but you have already painted that one all nice and neat =)
 
I had an awful return that tan parallel to my downpipe, under the engine and to the rear of my AWR. I'm nor going to use this setup since I now have an MSP OEM MBSP
36e337c1174f02d4f2d70ea8191bd112.jpg


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The word is my new CHRA is getting shipped today! Woot!
 
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