CX-9 Skyactiv 2.5L turbo engine

This is what I mean...maybe there is a reason for that? Carbon deposits vs. Valve timing events. More power on the table...and they left it there. I am curious the reason...and I doubt "oh, they were just too tired of messing with it" or "it would cost time and money" is viable for Mazda, if a little guy (comparatively ) like you can come behind them and spruce it up perfectly well to such dramatic effect (25bhp).

So again...why did mazda leave it on the table...it's my concern.

You know that almost every car in existence leaves power on the table? This is why tuning exists. Mazda has factored elements into the tune that has to do with completely unrealistic scenarios, but because they are there they hinder the performance. For example cam timing maps are extended to 7500 RPM on the 2.5L. Can you rev that high? no. Cold start and temperature factors have reduction and addition factors for as low as -30 * C and high as 120 * C. for most cars out there they never see such temps. Another example is EGT function. These cars are very delicate about attempting to control exhaust temperatures. Why? for the catalyst of course. They factor this in, and it robs the engine of power because Mazda wants the catalyst to live as long as possible and continue to meet emissions standards. (not like tuning it does not though). There are so many things at play there is not a simple answer as to why mazda left power on the table between the two, or between any engines. You have to understand manufacturers rarely if ever try to get the maximum out of the engine with a stock calibration. Mazdas main focus was "long term reliability, excellent MPG, excellent emissions". Power was not a big concern for them and you can tell by how they designed the engine. You can simply remove some of the limiters mazda put in place and get the "power back" without sacrificing anything else. For example the stock ECU has certain controls that when activated will request AFR of 9.8. 9.8!! This is to control cylinder temperatures. Wanna know the negative side of that? Such enrichment causes large amounts of knock retard. We actually "cleaned" up this control and kept it safe by slightly leaning it out just enough to not cause knock retard, without losing the ability to cool temperatures, which we have tested monitoring exhaust temperatures. I'm sure mazda doesn't care as much about it knocking vs temperatures. The ECU is VERY GOOD at controlling knock once it has happened, so rather than try to stop knock, they let the ECU do it's job and enrich AFR as much as possible to make dramatic reductions in temperatures. I have even done testing with modifying how, when and how often the injectors fire vs crank degree to test differences in recorded temperatures. Extremely complex stuff.

here is the thing a lot of people need to understand. The reason why these engines get such excellent MPG and can do what they do is not because of the tune. It is because of the engine design and hardware. The cam profile, cylinder head, pistons, injectors, fuel pressure, etc etc all are what make this possible. Yes the tune is important in controlling it, but put this same style tune on an engine with different hardware components and you will not see anything like what the skyactiv achieves. Most of the controls in the ECU are about maintainin and controlling temperatures. Like EGT, catalyst temp, oil temp, coolant temp, cylinder temp, etc. Making marginal changes to these makes a big difference in how the engine performs. Now I did not just go at this blindly, I spent more than 3 months of datalogging and recording everything in these engines, every single day for 3 months straight before I made even the smallest of changes. Reviewing extremely large amounts of data. After 3 months of logging and recording, I spent another 6 months making small changes and again data-logging and recording output. I did not just create some "shelf tune" or canned map like tossing leaner AFR or throwing more ignition at it. Like I documented on Miata.net I have actually seen, in some cases where these engines make more power with LESS than stock ignition. Why would a tuner purposely retard ignition on a N/A engine to make more power if it is not knocking and not at MBT? that is virtually unheard of. The answer is almost always "advance, advance, advance." I took a different approach. I logged everything, made very small changes, recorded results. for all RPM breakpoints, load breakpoints, etc.

For example, here is a great one. At exactly 2000-2250 RPM the exhaust cam Valve timing must be dramatically reduced at a specific load range, for a very specific purpose, I'll mention part of it. Doing so stops on throttle knock retard in this RPM area. The stock tune does this, but not enough. And if you data-log a stock vehicle you will see it. SO why Reduce Valve timing in this range, because it also reduces torque? Easy, because of the knock control system, like I stated before. You get knock once, you lose power for a while, as the ECU will peak and hold that ignition retard for quite a while. So you can actually gain more power by reducing certain things in the OEM map, valve timing, and ignition timing being some of those things.

I have studied everything I possibly can about these engines for more than 3 years, every single day I don't even take sundays off. Every little control in the ECU, I have recorded data from skyactiv engines around the globe, and compared. For example do you know that in certain countries the target A/F ratio at full throttle is 12, but in other countries it is 12.4? there is a reason. I have studied, recorded and compared the calibrations of the 1.5L 2.0L and 2.5L and looked for key differences to understand why and under what scenarios these differences are necessary for. I am an enthusiast first, businessman second. I bought a skyactiv 2.0L engine practically brand new (100 miles on it) to tear it down just to take measurements, just to see the profile on the cams, just to see what the valves looked like. I have studied the injector spray patterns and firing order (multiple firing sequence per cylinder per fire event) to see WHY this happens and what it is necessary for (to control cyinder temperatures).

I have seen thousands of data-logs across the globe and have nit-picked every single little detail, in how these thinsg work. I expand my knowledge not just to "sell a tune" but because I love what mazda designed. These engines have so much potential and like I said I am an enthusiast first. I love cars, love modifying them, love tweaking them. But I do so very slowly and carefully.

I have gone out of my way to find controls in the ECU that are not necessary to change or even bother with under any scenario ever! ( for example, the crank tooth timing sequences). WHY? Because I enjoy it. Under no circumstances would you ever change the crank tooth timing sequences if you are still using a stock trigger wheel. So why would I bother to find this stuff? Or other things like MAF flow conversions for load and temperature. these are fine tune from the factory and would rarely if ever need to be changed. But I found them anyway.
Or Cylinder heat efficiency for fuel calculations. These are very sensitive maps that calculate the efficiency of each cylinder, never need to be touched, but I found them anyway. I could go on and on.

Like I said before, I have already turbocharged one of these things. 91 octane, 12:1 compression and boost. That is not easy for any tuner, let alone doing it on a stock ECU calibrated for natural aspiration only. I also spend a lot of time in IDA disassembling the logic in these ECUs. Contrary to the belief of a single forum goer here, it is very helpful to understand how these ECUs work. Once I have mapped out enough I plan to alter some controls and add a few of my own custom features to these ECUs. (yes this is possible!). Name a feature. something you think would be cool that the engine can do. It's possible by manipulating code.

I had one question...does your tune compromise carbon accumulation mitigation inherent to Mazda's factory tune. I never really feel that you answered that. I got a lot of "we have a couple with thousands of miles on them..." and such replies, but you never really said anything about mitigating it, or what is specifically done to do so, and how your tune maintains those specific parameters. So no, I don't know everything, but if you know so much...why have you not answered this one simple but very pertinent question? Or did you and did I miss it somehow? "Sample of 1 still running" is not an answer. It's antecdotal.

The engine design does most of the job in preventing carbon build up, like I posted (probably got deleted). Mazda designed the cylinder head to keep the intake valves as hot as possible (400* +). The stock tune only gives small amounts of help, it's mostly the hardware.

I want to add this as some "proof" of my ability.
in the 2nd GEN MZR ECU, 2.5L a car I personally owned. I documented, tested, confirmed and showed proof of manipulating the controls to run full time closed loop with boost.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=588644&highlight=closed+loop+boost+tuning

But even further, I extended the load ranges, adjusted EQ targets so that the ECU would target the EXACT AFR I listed in the map. Lets say I wanted exactly 11.67 at full boost, I manipulated the closed loop controls so that depending on load and rpm it would request that EXACT AFR in closed loop. here is a video showing complete stock like driving of boost on the N/A ECU in full time closed loop : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etTO_kZPKTQ
I went further and changed the maximum and minimum allowable trim percentages for recalculating fuel to ensure enrichment was always exactly what I requested.
Now that sounds "simple" but that is no easy feat.
After finalizing this I was able to run over 35psi on the stock ECU in full time closed loop when this ECU left the factory tuned to run a 167HP naturally aspirated engine.
 
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You know that almost every car in existence leaves power on the table? This is why tuning exists. Mazda has factored elements into the tune that has to do with completely unrealistic scenarios, but because they are there they hinder the performance. For example cam timing maps are extended to 7500 RPM on the 2.5L. Can you rev that high? no. Cold start and temperature factors have reduction and addition factors for as low as -30 * C and high as 120 * C. for most cars out there they never see such temps. Another example is EGT function. These cars are very delicate about attempting to control exhaust temperatures. Why? for the catalyst of course. They factor this in, and it robs the engine of power because Mazda wants the catalyst to live as long as possible and continue to meet emissions standards. (not like tuning it does not though). There are so many things at play there is not a simple answer as to why mazda left power on the table between the two, or between any engines. You have to understand manufacturers rarely if ever try to get the maximum out of the engine with a stock calibration. Mazdas main focus was "long term reliability, excellent MPG, excellent emissions". Power was not a big concern for them and you can tell by how they designed the engine. You can simply remove some of the limiters mazda put in place and get the "power back" without sacrificing anything else. For example the stock ECU has certain controls that when activated will request AFR of 9.8. 9.8!! This is to control cylinder temperatures. Wanna know the negative side of that? Such enrichment causes large amounts of knock retard. We actually "cleaned" up this control and kept it safe by slightly leaning it out just enough to not cause knock retard, without losing the ability to cool temperatures, which we have tested monitoring exhaust temperatures. I'm sure mazda doesn't care as much about it knocking vs temperatures. The ECU is VERY GOOD at controlling knock once it has happened, so rather than try to stop knock, they let the ECU do it's job and enrich AFR as much as possible to make dramatic reductions in temperatures. I have even done testing with modifying how, when and how often the injectors fire vs crank degree to test differences in recorded temperatures. Extremely complex stuff.

here is the thing a lot of people need to understand. The reason why these engines get such excellent MPG and can do what they do is not because of the tune. It is because of the engine design and hardware. The cam profile, cylinder head, pistons, injectors, fuel pressure, etc etc all are what make this possible. Yes the tune is important in controlling it, but put this same style tune on an engine with different hardware components and you will not see anything like what the skyactiv achieves. Most of the controls in the ECU are about maintainin and controlling temperatures. Like EGT, catalyst temp, oil temp, coolant temp, cylinder temp, etc. Making marginal changes to these makes a big difference in how the engine performs. Now I did not just go at this blindly, I spent more than 3 months of datalogging and recording everything in these engines, every single day for 3 months straight before I made even the smallest of changes. Reviewing extremely large amounts of data. After 3 months of logging and recording, I spent another 6 months making small changes and again data-logging and recording output. I did not just create some "shelf tune" or canned map like tossing leaner AFR or throwing more ignition at it. Like I documented on Miata.net I have actually seen, in some cases where these engines make more power with LESS than stock ignition. Why would a tuner purposely retard ignition on a N/A engine to make more power if it is not knocking and not at MBT? that is virtually unheard of. The answer is almost always "advance, advance, advance." I took a different approach. I logged everything, made very small changes, recorded results. for all RPM breakpoints, load breakpoints, etc.

For example, here is a great one. At exactly 2000-2250 RPM the exhaust cam Valve timing must be dramatically reduced at a specific load range, for a very specific purpose, I'll mention part of it. Doing so stops on throttle knock retard in this RPM area. The stock tune does this, but not enough. And if you data-log a stock vehicle you will see it. SO why Reduce Valve timing in this range, because it also reduces torque? Easy, because of the knock control system, like I stated before. You get knock once, you lose power for a while, as the ECU will peak and hold that ignition retard for quite a while. So you can actually gain more power by reducing certain things in the OEM map, valve timing, and ignition timing being some of those things.

I have studied everything I possibly can about these engines for more than 3 years, every single day I don't even take sundays off. Every little control in the ECU, I have recorded data from skyactiv engines around the globe, and compared. For example do you know that in certain countries the target A/F ratio at full throttle is 12, but in other countries it is 12.4? there is a reason. I have studied, recorded and compared the calibrations of the 1.5L 2.0L and 2.5L and looked for key differences to understand why and under what scenarios these differences are necessary for. I am an enthusiast first, businessman second. I bought a skyactiv 2.0L engine practically brand new (100 miles on it) to tear it down just to take measurements, just to see the profile on the cams, just to see what the valves looked like. I have studied the injector spray patterns and firing order (multiple firing sequence per cylinder per fire event) to see WHY this happens and what it is necessary for (to control cyinder temperatures).

I have seen thousands of data-logs across the globe and have nit-picked every single little detail, in how these thinsg work. I expand my knowledge not just to "sell a tune" but because I love what mazda designed. These engines have so much potential and like I said I am an enthusiast first. I love cars, love modifying them, love tweaking them. But I do so very slowly and carefully.

I have gone out of my way to find controls in the ECU that are not necessary to change or even bother with under any scenario ever! ( for example, the crank tooth timing sequences). WHY? Because I enjoy it. Under no circumstances would you ever change the crank tooth timing sequences if you are still using a stock trigger wheel. So why would I bother to find this stuff? Or other things like MAF flow conversions for load and temperature. these are fine tune from the factory and would rarely if ever need to be changed. But I found them anyway.
Or Cylinder heat efficiency for fuel calculations. These are very sensitive maps that calculate the efficiency of each cylinder, never need to be touched, but I found them anyway. I could go on and on.

Like I said before, I have already turbocharged one of these things. 91 octane, 12:1 compression and boost. That is not easy for any tuner, let alone doing it on a stock ECU calibrated for natural aspiration only. I also spend a lot of time in IDA disassembling the logic in these ECUs. Contrary to the belief of a single forum goer here, it is very helpful to understand how these ECUs work. Once I have mapped out enough I plan to alter some controls and add a few of my own custom features to these ECUs. (yes this is possible!). Name a feature. something you think would be cool that the engine can do. It's possible by manipulating code.



The engine design does most of the job in preventing carbon build up, like I posted (probably got deleted). Mazda designed the cylinder head to keep the intake valves as hot as possible (400* +). The stock tune only gives small amounts of help, it's mostly the hardware.

I want to add this as some "proof" of my ability.
in the 2nd GEN MZR ECU, 2.5L a car I personally owned. I documented, tested, confirmed and showed proof of manipulating the controls to run full time closed loop with boost.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=588644&highlight=closed+loop+boost+tuning

But even further, I extended the load ranges, adjusted EQ targets so that the ECU would target the EXACT AFR I listed in the map. Lets say I wanted exactly 11.67 at full boost, I manipulated the closed loop controls so that depending on load and rpm it would request that EXACT AFR in closed loop. here is a video showing complete stock like driving of boost on the N/A ECU in full time closed loop : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etTO_kZPKTQ
I went further and changed the maximum and minimum allowable trim percentages for recalculating fuel to ensure enrichment was always exactly what I requested.
Now that sounds "simple" but that is no easy feat.
After finalizing this I was able to run over 35psi on the stock ECU in full time closed loop when this ECU left the factory tuned to run a 167HP naturally aspirated engine.

Thanks! So what's the difference between me sending you my ecu (can I buy a spare from a 2.5l from a junk yard and swap thay and my oem one at will to have an 87 and 91 tune?) And buying the "tuning kit"?
 
Any CX-5 owners who have done mi timings on their own CX-5s before and after installation of Tbot's ECU, then driven them for a year with the non-stock ECU still installed?

There's nothing like real world testing. Not Tbot's dyno testing, because seriously, tests done by any manufacturer who has a vested interest in the outcome are subject to moral hazard unless there are independently conducted tests available to confirm the manufacturer's tests. The best way to keep things honest is to avoid situations where anybody is operating with a moral hazard.
 
Any CX-5 owners who have done mi timings on their own CX-5s before and after installation of Tbot's ECU, then driven them for a year with the non-stock ECU still installed?

There's nothing like real world testing. Not Tbot's dyno testing, because seriously, tests done by any manufacturer who has a vested interest in the outcome are subject to moral hazard unless there are independently conducted tests available to confirm the manufacturer's tests. The best way to keep things honest is to avoid situations where anybody is operating with a moral hazard.

I would be VERY curious to see 1/4 mile strip back to back runs. The tune can't take that long. Ever done one at a Test n Tune, TBOT?
 
Just wanted to point out the irony of you using Google to try to win an argument. (potkettle

Key words being "try to". This isn't even close in terms of knowledge being dropped here...

It's great that it seems the Google troll has left the building, though...
 
I would be VERY curious to see 1/4 mile strip back to back runs. The tune can't take that long. Ever done one at a Test n Tune, TBOT?

I have not, you'd be surprised but it isn't all that easy to find folks. Back when I offered free dyno tuning for the CX5 for someone local, nobody showed up.

Thanks! So what's the difference between me sending you my ecu (can I buy a spare from a 2.5l from a junk yard and swap thay and my oem one at will to have an 87 and 91 tune?) And buying the "tuning kit"?

Chris_Top_Her has had our tune on both of his cx5's, spanning more than two years now. have also tuned other CX5s but most are international
 
Out of curiosity, what happened to MikeM? He's been gone from the forum for almost 10 days.
 
Out of curiosity, what happened to MikeM? He's been gone from the forum for almost 10 days.

Hopefully everything is okay. Maybe he got a temporary forum suspension or something.

In other news our dealer in Saudi Arabia is going to be doing some logging on a 2016 CX5 there to see how the addional engine load from AWD does with heat (ambient 50*C +)
 
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I have not, you'd be surprised but it isn't all that easy to find folks. Back when I offered free dyno tuning for the CX5 for someone local, nobody showed up.



Chris_Top_Her has had our tune on both of his cx5's, spanning more than two years now. have also tuned other CX5s but most are international

Couldn't you just VBOX a few 0-60 runs back to back? I mean, I know it's not "super scientific", but it would be plenty to show proof that the "seat of the pants" performance increase is meaningful and somewhat quantify it.
 
Couldn't you just VBOX a few 0-60 runs back to back? I mean, I know it's not "super scientific", but it would be plenty to show proof that the "seat of the pants" performance increase is meaningful and somewhat quantify it.

I actually had recorded several run times when doing some testing and WOT runs with Chris_Top_Her's CX5. They were posted on mazda3rev a long time ago i will see if I can pull them up. If not I can probably get someone I am currently tuning to do some runs for comparison.

Also I would recommend watch this thread, very well documented with the tuning process, including totally 3rd party dyno results for stock, and soon after tune: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...e-virus-tuned-gen-3-skyacitv-2-5-writeup.html

I know it isn't a CX5 but the engine is identical, so you can expect similar results.
 
Couldn't you just VBOX a few 0-60 runs back to back? I mean, I know it's not "super scientific", but it would be plenty to show proof that the "seat of the pants" performance increase is meaningful and somewhat quantify it.

I stopped trying to log that kind of data because there are simply way to many factors in play like time of season, elevation, road grade, temperature, humidity density altitide etc etc.. when nwe are talking 1 or 2 sec changes it's not even worth me logging with my relativley simple equipment (phone and obd2 adapter); just so I can post it here and have people arguing with me about 1 or 2 sec variations under unsure conditions. My drivability is better overall; I'm rarely going 0 to 60 or 0 to 80 so really that's irrelevant to me. Im more interested in power available while underway and being able to wring for top power and drop into an rpm good for power after shifting. Besides people are asking about 1/4 times etc from a tune adding ~20hp and totally forgetting about gear ratios which cannot be changed. We aren't talking 100hp here. It seems to me many are discounting the affects on drivability throughout the rpm range and focusing on drag strip s*** as if these are 400hp cars where the object is max fuel and max speed off the line, all the time.


I mean I've had people on here try to tell me my car didn't corner better with h&r simply because the damper rate wasn't "matched" with the spring. I'm pretty sure I have the most experience here with this car and different suspension set ups, and actually taking the suspension to near max performance.
 
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Hell, I'm tempted to get the bench tune. Just because it would annoy people if I liked it and my car didn't grenade. I would want an easy way to go back to 87 octane though for road trips...?
 
Hell, I'm tempted to get the bench tune. Just because it would annoy people if I liked it and my car didn't grenade. I would want an easy way to go back to 87 octane though for road trips...?

to be able to switch maps back and forth you'll need the full tune kit. the bench flash is 1 tune wrote to the ecu directly. I can do one for 87 but the power won't be there like 91.

How about this. Send me your ECU and pay return shipping, I'll load my bench flash on it for your honest review. For 91 octane. (because on 87 you wont really feel just how different it is)

I'll extend that same offer to any (1) person. Except MikeM or CC58.
 
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to be able to switch maps back and forth you'll need the full tune kit. the bench flash is 1 tune wrote to the ecu directly. I can do one for 87 but the power won't be there like 91.

How about this. Send me your ECU and pay return shipping, I'll load my bench flash on it for your honest review. For 91 octane. (because on 87 you wont really feel just how different it is)

I'll extend that same offer to any (1) person. Except MikeM or CC58.

Give me a few weeks to mull it over. Very solid offer! (I'd kindof like to look around and find a junk-yard ECU so that I could swap back and forth between OEM and your tune, for 87 octane ability). Would any junk-yard ECU from a 2.5L AWD CX-5 work?
 
Give me a few weeks to mull it over. Very solid offer! (I'd kindof like to look around and find a junk-yard ECU so that I could swap back and forth between OEM and your tune, for 87 octane ability). Would any junk-yard ECU from a 2.5L AWD CX-5 work?
This is a good opportunity to rent a Mirage
 
Give me a few weeks to mull it over. Very solid offer! (I'd kindof like to look around and find a junk-yard ECU so that I could swap back and forth between OEM and your tune, for 87 octane ability). Would any junk-yard ECU from a 2.5L AWD CX-5 work?

Sounds good, but to be completely fair this would be a first come first serve type of deal.
 
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