The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

Car Sense (the are in Philly and Pittsburgh) they are a "no haggle dealer" but they are actually pretty damn fair on both trade and their "best posted price". was also kinda nice cause the salesman are paid salary and not commission so they are actually very patient and just want to help you find what you like. That was nice cause i test drove and looked at alot of different vehicles that day haha

I've heard their radio spots. Will have to keep them in mind when it comes time to get rid of the P5. Good to know they don't work off of commission too.



Cheapest rust repellent I've found. Has a lot more uses too!

www.fluid-film.com

Hmm, very interesting and going to check this out.
 
Thanks for the information. Do you know of a good place to buy these from, discount, etc? I've done about 6 track days, first time with the MSP. I will be driving it to the track on November 1st, so it will most likely be cold. I see the AX6 operating temp is from 50f and the XP8 are from 200f. I am only running street tires so perhaps the AX6 will be fine?
The AX6's might be fine in your situation. I don't know from first hand experience since I never used anything under the XP8. I've heard of plenty of other people who have made it through with the street/autox level of pad like the AX6 or Hawk HPS. But also heard plenty of stories of people who cooked them. The MSP isn't really horrible on brake wear or overheating though, so its probably one of the better cars for you to get away with the AX6. They have larger rotors than a regular Protege, low enough power that you won't be going really fast at any of the brake zones, fairly low weight, and they handle well so you don't have to slow down as much as the poor handling cars for the corners either.
You will just have to be conscious of the pedal and if it starts getting soft or its taking longer to slow down, then take it slow and let things cool. The balance will be rear brake biased with the same pad front and rear, but should be easy to modulate with that level of pad.

Edit: Oct31-Nov1 will be my second weekend with the Focus ST at a track. I get to play around at Daytona. Can't wait. Luckily I don't have the same temperature concerns so I'm driving there on XP12 fronts and XP8 rears.
 
The AX6's might be fine in your situation. I don't know from first hand experience since I never used anything under the XP8. I've heard of plenty of other people who have made it through with the street/autox level of pad like the AX6 or Hawk HPS. But also heard plenty of stories of people who cooked them. The MSP isn't really horrible on brake wear or overheating though, so its probably one of the better cars for you to get away with the AX6. They have larger rotors than a regular Protege, low enough power that you won't be going really fast at any of the brake zones, fairly low weight, and they handle well so you don't have to slow down as much as the poor handling cars for the corners either.
You will just have to be conscious of the pedal and if it starts getting soft or its taking longer to slow down, then take it slow and let things cool. The balance will be rear brake biased with the same pad front and rear, but should be easy to modulate with that level of pad.

Edit: Oct31-Nov1 will be my second weekend with the Focus ST at a track. I get to play around at Daytona. Can't wait. Luckily I don't have the same temperature concerns so I'm driving there on XP12 fronts and XP8 rears.

Thanks for all the info.
With the way you describe the brake bias, do you think it would be a bad idea to only install the AX6s on the front and keep the rear pads that are on there now?
If you know of a good place to buy them from, please let me know.
 
Thanks for all the info.
With the way you describe the brake bias, do you think it would be a bad idea to only install the AX6s on the front and keep the rear pads that are on there now?
If you know of a good place to buy them from, please let me know.

No, I don't think you should go below an AX6 on either end. I forgot to bring my spare rear pads to the track one weekend and had to run the best available pad from a parts store in the rear. They were burned down to the backing plate in one session.
I just call up Carbotech and order from them directly. They are really nice and easy to work with. The number is (877) 899-5024.
 
Hope everyone had a good weekend. Mostly did yard/house work but did buy these for both cars to install when I do the oil changes and go into winter mode.
 
I'd be skeerd of running over something and it getting caught on the release valve and draining the oil from the pan. But I like to worry about stuff.
 
I'd be skeerd of running over something and it getting caught on the release valve and draining the oil from the pan. But I like to worry about stuff.

I know someone who had one snap off on the highway at the threads. Lost all the oil and the motor was toast.
 
I'd be skeerd of running over something and it getting caught on the release valve and draining the oil from the pan. But I like to worry about stuff.
If installed correctly the release valve will be on the top, you can get away with the the side. The escape sits high enough that if anything hits it, I'm going to be worried about other parts of the car. Kinda feel the same about the wagon. It's not going to be any lower than the oil pan. I got the locking clips for an extra $1 too.

I know someone who had one snap off on the highway at the threads. Lost all the oil and the motor was toast.
did they hit something or just way over tighten on install?
I was Bob Ross over the weekend and Megan (my wife) was my happy little tree.
A+ for creativity.
 
Hope everyone had a good weekend. Mostly did yard/house work but did buy these for both cars to install when I do the oil changes and go into winter mode.

Can't you find something similar at hardware stores for much less? I haven't checked myself but these are just valves with a male metric thread. Might be hard to find and not look as nice but probably won't cost nearly $30.

In other news we're under contract for a house in VA and we've secured daycare spots for the kids in the area. Beth's time in Ohio is up the end of October; I don't know how long I'll need to hang around. We're meeting with another potential realtor tonight regarding selling our current house. Feedback from the first realtor was good and it looks the market value for our house has gone up ~$15k since we closed in 2009.
 
Can't you find something similar at hardware stores for much less? I haven't checked myself but these are just valves with a male metric thread. Might be hard to find and not look as nice but probably won't cost nearly $30.

In other news we're under contract for a house in VA and we've secured daycare spots for the kids in the area. Beth's time in Ohio is up the end of October; I don't know how long I'll need to hang around. We're meeting with another potential realtor tonight regarding selling our current house. Feedback from the first realtor was good and it looks the market value for our house has gone up ~$15k since we closed in 2009.

Found something similar but had plastic parts inside and was still $18.

That's a nice bonus on the house value. Values seem to be up in my neighborhood which has me thinking about an Equity line of credit for some major projects.
 
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If installed correctly the release valve will be on the top, you can get away with the the side. The escape sits high enough that if anything hits it, I'm going to be worried about other parts of the car. Kinda feel the same about the wagon. It's not going to be any lower than the oil pan. I got the locking clips for an extra $1 too.


did they hit something or just way over tighten on install?

A+ for creativity.

It broke after 3 years, and just snapped at the threads. Didn't even get an oil change recently either.
 
If you succeed, the record for getting things going will be 1 of about 6. Though Justin did buy an actuall Noble M400 motor install it after swapping heads.

Wow, that's it? I haven't really researched it, just noticed them when looking at the headers. I've seen a lot of pre-cat failures killing engines recently (I know it's been an issue for a while) and have given the headers serious thought. Just not sure on buying something that costs close to 1/6 of the cars worth. But at the same time I don't want to replace an engine if it can be avoided.
 
Wow, that's it? I haven't really researched it, just noticed them when looking at the headers. I've seen a lot of pre-cat failures killing engines recently (I know it's been an issue for a while) and have given the headers serious thought. Just not sure on buying something that costs close to 1/6 of the cars worth. But at the same time I don't want to replace an engine if it can be avoided.

You can always pull the factory manifolds, knock out the precats with a long 3/8 socket extension, and reinstall. You may still have the issue with a CEL, but that can be fixed with either an O2 simulator, or put a spacer on the O2 sensor.
 
On a side note I autoX'd April's 2 yesterday. Wow that car is super squirrely. Could definitely tell the tires in the rear were hard as a rock compared to the newer more sporty tires in the front. Plus the cold weather didn't help either. Still had a fun time even though 2 out of the 5 runs I spun. The last run for s**** and giggles I loaded the car with 5 people and made it look like a slammed clown car. Good Times!
 

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