Will Not Be Getting Another CX7

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Your info is good & I'd thought I'd give a little more detailed engineering insight into this, if anyones interested or cares!

For top speed, you need a small C/D & small frontal area, to give you a low product of drag co-efficient * frontal area, and lightweight & high horsepower (to give you a good HP/WT ratio). Also, the height of the vehicle above the road surface contributes quite a bit to the drag equation, as the more flow you send under the rough underbody rather than around out it really screws the aero/drag up.

As far as drag racing times, traction, gearing & torque off the line contributes to low 60' times, which are almost impossible to regain as the velocity increases & the required HP becomes a cube function w/ velocity.
Also, the number & speed of gear changes & a bunch of other stuff are the driving factors for good ET's.

Torque gives you acceleration & HP/RPM give you top end, in general.

You also need the proper gearing and these factors are what gives a vehicle a high top speed & can also contribute to better fuel mileage. By the way, HP is a fictious number & can not be directly measured. It is calculated from the engine torque & rpm.

As far as the CX-7, there are some significant issues w/ a large frontal area & grill opening causing large amounts of drag/turbulence, which is also made worse by the rear hatch design, which generates large amounts of unsteady turbulent flow at the rear of the vehicle where the flow detaches and creates a large unsteady turbulent low pressure area (That's why the rear hatch gets so damn dirty).

A little more wind tunnel time & even some of the Mazda accessories, front splitter (more downforce/more drag, but will probably help divert more flow around the vehicle which is better than under it, where there's all kind of junk to disrupt the air flow) & maybe even the optional rear spoiler, which appears to redirect the flow down across the rear window & will help keep the flow attached longer for less drag. Also, properly designed side skirts would also help immensely over the cheap black plastic stuff on their now.An easy way to confirm this would be to see if any one who has installed these components can comment on the fuel economy.

Also, owning a few high horsepower turbo toys, I can tell you that boost is the killer of fuel economy. My 94 RX7 (~470 RWP), 95 ECLIPSE GSX (~390 RWP) & 2005 IMPREZA STI (~430 RWP) can get as low as 6 MPG during a track event & up in the mid 20's if I drive it like a granny.

The CX-7's turbo is small to reduce turbo lag & that coupled with a small inefficient top mount intercooler raises intake temperatures, so the ECM is programmed on the rich side to account for lower cylinder oxygen content to keep the A/F ratios on the rich side & make the engine last (look at how fast the rear tail pipes get black), but makes it practically impossible to stay out of boost, especially around town when you're always accelerating/decelerating. The 2008 change to be able to use 89 octane only makes this worse, as the knock sensor detects more knock (made worse w/ high intake temps) & starts pulling ignition timing to prevent it. So basically, Mazda can say you can use 89 octane, but you get worse performance & fuel economy, which kind of contradicts the whole Zoom-Zoom thing!

But like you summarized, weight is the killer of all aspects of performance, from fuel economy, performance, handling,braking, etc. That's why F1 teams spend millions to shave a few grams & gain a few thousandths of a second per lap.

A kilo of fuel, in general, reduces an F1 cars lap time by around 0.10 seconds.


Chico- weight is your enemy in speed and gas mileage, and more-so than one might think

For example:

4,200 lbs @ 244 HP - 15.987 1/4 mile time
4,000 lbs @ 244 HP - 15.729 1/4 mile time
3,800 lbs @ 244 HP - 15.463 1/4 mile time

half a second difference for only 400 lbs...

now obviously there are other factors (RWD, AWD, Wrong-wheel drive [FWD], launch, grip, temperature, etc, etc, etc), but the point is to show that if weight effects speed that much, it'll also effect gas mileage in a similar fashion.
 
mazdman, I didn't think going into that much detail was appropriate for this thread as my reply was already starting to veer off the original subject, but thank you for posting many of the things I wanted to say.
 
Your info is good & I'd thought I'd give a little more detailed engineering insight into this, if anyones interested or cares!

For top speed, you need a small C/D & small frontal area, to give you a low product of drag co-efficient * frontal area, and lightweight & high horsepower (to give you a good HP/WT ratio). Also, the height of the vehicle above the road surface contributes quite a bit to the drag equation, as the more flow you send under the rough underbody rather than around out it really screws the aero/drag up.

As far as drag racing times, traction, gearing & torque off the line contributes to low 60' times, which are almost impossible to regain as the velocity increases & the required HP becomes a cube function w/ velocity.
Also, the number & speed of gear changes & a bunch of other stuff are the driving factors for good ET's.

Torque gives you acceleration & HP/RPM give you top end, in general.

You also need the proper gearing and these factors are what gives a vehicle a high top speed & can also contribute to better fuel mileage. By the way, HP is a fictious number & can not be directly measured. It is calculated from the engine torque & rpm.

As far as the CX-7, there are some significant issues w/ a large frontal area & grill opening causing large amounts of drag/turbulence, which is also made worse by the rear hatch design, which generates large amounts of unsteady turbulent flow at the rear of the vehicle where the flow detaches and creates a large unsteady turbulent low pressure area (That's why the rear hatch gets so damn dirty).

A little more wind tunnel time & even some of the Mazda accessories, front splitter (more downforce/more drag, but will probably help divert more flow around the vehicle which is better than under it, where there's all kind of junk to disrupt the air flow) & maybe even the optional rear spoiler, which appears to redirect the flow down across the rear window & will help keep the flow attached longer for less drag. Also, properly designed side skirts would also help immensely over the cheap black plastic stuff on their now.An easy way to confirm this would be to see if any one who has installed these components can comment on the fuel economy.

Also, owning a few high horsepower turbo toys, I can tell you that boost is the killer of fuel economy. My 94 RX7 (~470 RWP), 95 ECLIPSE GSX (~390 RWP) & 2005 IMPREZA STI (~430 RWP) can get as low as 6 MPG during a track event & up in the mid 20's if I drive it like a granny.

The CX-7's turbo is small to reduce turbo lag & that coupled with a small inefficient top mount intercooler raises intake temperatures, so the ECM is programmed on the rich side to account for lower cylinder oxygen content to keep the A/F ratios on the rich side & make the engine last (look at how fast the rear tail pipes get black), but makes it practically impossible to stay out of boost, especially around town when you're always accelerating/decelerating. The 2008 change to be able to use 89 octane only makes this worse, as the knock sensor detects more knock (made worse w/ high intake temps) & starts pulling ignition timing to prevent it. So basically, Mazda can say you can use 89 octane, but you get worse performance & fuel economy, which kind of contradicts the whole Zoom-Zoom thing!

But like you summarized, weight is the killer of all aspects of performance, from fuel economy, performance, handling,braking, etc. That's why F1 teams spend millions to shave a few grams & gain a few thousandths of a second per lap.

A kilo of fuel, in general, reduces an F1 cars lap time by around 0.10 seconds.

Thanks for this very well written and informative post. I hope you decide to post more helpful information in this forum.
 
Just got another tank of gas. 16.9 gal and 385miles. Running @22mpg. Has about 7k on it.

This matches what I am getting on mine.... About 50/50 highway/city driving with highway speeds of 75-80mph.... I have been very pleased.
 
motopilot and pi1: Do you guys have the FWD version or the AWD version? I can't go more than 260-270 miles on my gas tank without the light going on.
 
Wow mpg still being discussed for this vehicle. (enguard) My wife and I have a FWD one and when she drives we get about 300 miles to the tank and when I drive we get about 340. That's about the best I've gotten in it for the city.

Overall I'm pleased with my consistent 22mpg in the behemoth. Then again a buddy's GF bought one and she can't get more than 250 miles to the tank... but she has a really heavy foot. I doubt she ever gets more than 17 or 18 mpg.

What I am (and my wife) interested in is can anyone with an aftermarket TMIC, bypass valve, and CAI chime in? We want to do all 3 and are hoping for an increase in mpg provided we don't drive any different.
 
motopilot and pi1: Do you guys have the FWD version or the AWD version? I can't go more than 260-270 miles on my gas tank without the light going on.


FWD. I wonder if the fact we both live in southern states impacts our MPG....?
 
motopilot and pi1: Do you guys have the FWD version or the AWD version? I can't go more than 260-270 miles on my gas tank without the light going on.

FWD. Sorry if I did not mention before. And yep I double checked, the 385 is correct.
 
Ok did a round trip from Dallas to San Antonio with 2 adults and 3 kids and all their stuff. About 85mph all the way thru, got 23mpg going south and 20 going north, go figure, hehehe. 87 octane gas and the most was 300 miles on a tank.
 
if you got 23mpg and only 300 miles...how is that so?

either your tank wasnt that full or your mpg is too high....20 works but 23 doesnt
 
i dont know...last time we filled it up...it was at 300.8 and put 14.6 gallons.
 
Mazdaman. Great post, thanks for the information.

As for gas mileage, for the first three months of ownership, I averaged between 290-300 miles a tank. I drive an AWD.

During this last month, it has improved to about 315-320 miles a tank. I have heard that gas mileage improves as the engine breaks in. This seems to be the case.
 
My last 3,126 miles yielded an average of 21.94 mpg with a SD of 0.47. All suburban easy driving and only an occasional WOT to ~ 5,500 rpm burst (manual mode) to merge onto the main road (fun indead). This level of fuel consumption was not obtainable until ~ 5,000 miles due to breaking-in the vehicle. I have also found that the TCM is tuned for the more sporting driver because it will stay in 5th and or 6th gear for a longer time than most ATs. To get the best mileage you need to back off the throttle slightly to enable to get the AT to shift into the next up gear. I do this at ~ 36 mph and 48 mph when driving at a steady state speed. This little backing off saved me ~ 1.5 mpg.
 
Mine (wife's) has been good on gas. On her usual 40 mile daily commute (20 one way), it averages 21mpg. Monday and Tuesday I drove it from the Tulsa, OK metro to Fort Worth, TX & back. Got 23 mpg there and yesterday, it used 13.644 gallons to go 350.8 miles (25.7 mpg). That was 65 - 75mph, trying to keep the torque converter locked in 6th by gradually speeding up downhill and losing speed uphill.

For what the car is, which is a 4,000lb Crossover SUV, it has been very good in the mileage department. Its a great road trip car, great stereo, great interior. My only complaints are 1) its not a good looking car and 2) 25,000 miles and the stock Goodyear Eagle RS-A's are worn out & noisy.

I probably could get another 10 - 15k miles out of the tires, but they are bad in rain and the noise is unacceptable for a $33k car.
 
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