1980 RX-7 value

I found a 1980 RX-7 with only 61,000 miles on it. It's in decent shape except for a good size dent by the left rear tail light which is broken.

The interior has some sun damage, but the owner says that it runs good. The battery was dead when he went to start it because he rarely gets to drive it. I told him that I would make an offer in two weeks when I see him again.

What should I offer him? It needs new tires, tune-up, etc.

I have a 1980 fully prepped for SCCA with 75,000 original miles and a straight body. We're asking $2500. It runs great.

75,xxx original miles
Set up for autocross in CSP with:
Koni Reds on all 4 corners
Eibach ProKit Springs
CP Racing Front Strut Bar
Full GSLSE Suspension swap
- 4 wheel vented disc brakes
- Clutch Type Limited Slip Differential
Racing Beat Stainless Braided Brake Lines
Hawk HP+ Brake Pads at all 4 corners
Racing Beat Full Exhaust
Rotary Engineering Dual Weber 36DCD Carb Setup
Holley Blue Fuel Pump and Regulator
Custom DLIDFIS Direct Fire Ignition
Custom E-Fan Install

Will include only one set of wheels, GSLSE Stockers with 195/60-14 Yokohama A550 all season street tires with 90% tread left.
Kenwood MP3 Player
Rockford Fosgate 4" Speakers in the dash
Cerwin Vega 6.5" Speakers in the rear.
http://www.jamesduncan.org/cars/80gs/Picture1069.jpg
http://www.jamesduncan.org/cars/80gs/Picture1070.jpg

if it has been sitting for a while you might want to have it comp. tested before you make a offer

wow...tough to say. In 1996 I bought my '82 RX-7 for $600, and it only had 67K on the odometer (yes, it worked ....LOL). The interior was shot, but I replaced it w/ a previous '82 that I owned. Also, the engine leaked oil, which is why she's off the road now. They're great cars (I truly love mine...which is why I still have it after being off the road for nearly 8 years), but early models can run into the oil-seal problem and that's a bizzo to fix.

I'd say that if it needs tires & won't start (you NEED to test drive first...don't buy a car you can't start).....don't offer more than $800 - $900.

bryan_giovana said:

What should I offer him? It needs new tires, tune-up, etc.

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You can bet it will also need:
- ball joints
- tie rods
- radiator/heater hoses
- oil cooler lines (I think the 80 had the front-mount with fabric lines)
- spark plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor (and points? was the 80 pre-elec ignition?)

Possibly will need:
- battery
- front suspension bushings (control arm, radius rod, swaybar)
- fuel lines
- fuel pump

Has the car passed emmissions anytime recently? FBs are horrible to get through smog checks - they have a mess of vacuum actuated solenoids to control air valves, timing, carb, etc - problems can be tricky to track down.

How long has the car been sitting? If it's been more than a year or so, I'd pour some automatic trans fluid down the carb, turn it over a few times (with ignition cut), and let it sit overnight before cranking over - this will loosen carbon deposits and other gunk that has caked onto the apex seals.

If possible, I'd also run a compression check. You'll need a gauge with a release valve. Test each rotor for total pressure - should be 90 or better, 100+ for a new rebuild. Then, hold the release (or remove the check valve) and test the car - you should see three distinct peaks on each rotor - one for each face of the rotor - if a peak is missing, then there is a bad apex seal (or similar problem).

Unfortunately, any internal problem with a rotary requires a complete tear-down, so you'll be looking at $2000 or so for a rebuild (street port it while you're at it, since it should only add $200 or so to the price).

Oh, back to the original question...

If you can verify the car has run and passed smog in the last 6 months or so, anywhere from $500-$2500 is reasonable based on condition.

if you can't verify the car runs and has a reasonable motor, I wouldn't pay more than $500.

I've owned two FBs. The first was an 82 GSL that I bought for $1500 and built into a Spec RX-7 racecar. It was in pretty good shape with a good motor (70k miles or so). The second was an 83 GSL for $500 - it had a good body, mostly good interior, and a busted motor. That car was a pain in the ass - it sat for too long and all the suspension bolts were rusted - had it been a southern car, it would have been a great project starter.

captain krm p5 just bought a i think 80's rx-7....talk to him and see what he paid i know his runs great

i dont know how to post new threads, i saw 1980 rx 7. i used to own an 81 now i just bought a gem 1980 gs from arizona, beautiful, 76000 miles looks new and runs new, swear its stock and new. can i use mobile 1 synthetic and what number, i live in chicago will only drive on nice days. sorry for highjacking thread, thanks. aaron

no, stay away from synthetics w/the rotary. since they don't burn well, they have a tendency to flash into ash and coat the housings, leading to eventual engine failure.

Use Castrol GTX.

And to post a new topic, click the the "new thread" image in the forum topic list.

Compression test would be nice, but may not be practical. Pay close attention to how smooth the car idles and accelerates under load. If there's seal issues I would think it might be more rough and irratic then you would normally attribute to old plugs or a carb that needs adjusting.
And many modern synthetic oils burn just fine. I've been using MOBILE 1 in my car for years with no problems. And unlike conventional oils, synthetics resist coking from the high heat of turbos. That said, in cip5150's case I doubt the benefits of synthetics would justify the extra costs. If I had an NA car I'd run conventional oil....just change it regularly with a quality filter. These engines rarely have oil related failures. My .02.

thanks for the help! the 1980 gs with all options i just bought cost me four thousand. the car has 76000 miles and runs and idles perfect. the interior looks brand new and there is not an ounce of rust anywhere. the body is flawless. this car is a stunner. judging by mostly ebay, a 1980 gs in great shape generally are going from 4000 to 6000. if you want something nice your gonna pay for it. in my case its gonna be a toy and never see a chicago winter. the problem is winter is almost here and i cant get my four year old out of it. we just drive and drive. this car truly is a hoot to drive again.

cip5150 said:

thanks for the help! the 1980 gs with all options i just bought cost me four thousand. the car has 76000 miles and runs and idles perfect. the interior looks brand new and there is not an ounce of rust anywhere. the body is flawless. this car is a stunner. judging by mostly ebay, a 1980 gs in great shape generally are going from 4000 to 6000. if you want something nice your gonna pay for it. in my case its gonna be a toy and never see a chicago winter. the problem is winter is almost here and i cant get my four year old out of it. we just drive and drive. this car truly is a hoot to drive again.

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(thumb) Congrats! Sounds like a great find. My first RX7 was an 81 'S' (new). I remember it took a week just to wipe the grin off my face. Great car and your right, it was a hoot. FWIW, at least in the case of my 81, I remember it wanting to flood if I tried to start it when it was below about 15 or 20 degrees F. Might have just been my car, but thought I'd mention it. Anywhoo, post up some pictures!

i am just north of chicago and have a rotary compression tester and have owned three 80 to 85 RX7s if you need anything, cip.

-ken

Captain KRM P5 said:

i am just north of chicago and have a rotary compression tester and have owned three 80 to 85 RX7s if you need anything, cip.

-ken

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if i have any problems i will defintely call. thanks alot.