attn: spoolin and chdesign

Stou · May 9, 2002

Hi spoolin and chdesign,
I have a problem with the boost. Last sunday, the car was runing and the boost was runing to. At one moment, I had one of the piping from the intercooler that disconected. This make the car lost the boost of the turbo, the check engine light come on and I had a bad idle. I reconected the pipe correctly and disconected the battery to reset the ECU. The idle came back correctly, the check engine light stoped but I can't have any turbo boost now!

We installed the check valve like spoolin wrote me but my EGR is still not connected and open. Do you think the unconnected EGR can cause the lost boost problem?

chdesign · May 9, 2002

That disconnected EGR may be your problem but i doubt it unless the ECU opens that EGR valve under throttle which it may in which case you would be dumping your boost but Spoolin didn't have that problem i don't think. Check your wastegate and make sure the vaccum line didn't blow off and that all your vacuum lines are on securely I zip tied all my vacuum lines down jsut in cause.

Stou · May 9, 2002

Craig, we found the problem, we had a small air leak on one of the intercooler pipe ruber fiting. That's was our boost problem. Now the boost is realy good... to much, my clutch is slipping.

We add a check valve and block the EGR pipe and the car is runing fine but I still get the CHECK ENGINE light. I don't know if it's the EGR or the O2 sensor that make it light up...

I looked at your setup and I don't see that you changed your clutch. Is it runing fine with the stock one?

enry · May 10, 2002

That looks pretty cool, Stou. Tell me, what was your overall cost in canadian dollars, I might be interested, too. Oh, and what are your dyno results before and after?

Stou · May 10, 2002

Enry, I'll have to check with them about the exact price because I paid only for the parts and not for the installation. The reason for this is they took more time because everything is custom made. They had my car for 6 weeks and they did extra parts to be able to do another kit fast. They already have an order for another kit.

I'll check with them and I'll let you know. Or if you prefer, ou can give them a call.

Right now I don't have any dyno result. I just got my car back this week. Before I'll run some dyno run I want to get that clutch fix. It is slipping a lot.... to much power

BryanPendleton · May 10, 2002

This may sound silly, but physically test/shake/pull/giggle EVERY hose connection. I battled with my car for hours trying to determine my I did not have boost pressure. I checked all the hardware and "high-tech" stuff, then after a good nights rest, I got to thinking, I better check the plumbing. Sure enough there was a hose connection that "appeared" to be connected, but was simply resting on the "butt" of the pipe. What did I learn? Lip or weld a bead on the ends of all pipes. Regardless of how hard I clamped them down, I was blowing hose connections left and right. With the weld beads on the ends of the pipes, the problem stopped cold turkey.

I would pull the WG off and inspect to ensure the WG valve is not stuck. This is more common than most would think. E

I do not believe the EGR is your problem, because turbo exhaust manifold pressures typically exceed intake manifold pressures, so even if it were open you should be able to still build boost pressure. Plus with the EGR open you still have a closed system, if it were to pass through the EGR it can either drive the turbine, or possibly "reverse" into the cylinder head, which is probably very unlikely due to the mild cam profiles of stock production cars.

What type of setup do you have? Are you boosting through your MAF sensor or having the compressor draw air through the MAF sensor? Basically where is your MAF relative to your turbo system?

spoolinmp3(2) · May 10, 2002

What type of setup do you have? Are you boosting through your MAF sensor or having the compressor draw air through the MAF sensor? Basically where is your MAF relative to your turbo system?

I am not sure about this but is it not better to run the maf infront of the compressor to draw air? I was under the impression that maf's dont like boost? I have never seen it configured that way.....is yours set up like that and what are the pros and cons?

Also does the probe have an egr setup? And how does your motor respond in the upper rpm range to boost?

thank
spoolin

Stou · May 10, 2002

Spoolin, even with the check valve, my ECU still freak over 4500 rpm and the check engine light up. Are you still get problem at high RPM?

Here's where I installed the check valve:

(passenger side)

Is it at the right place?

Chdesign talk about 3 check valve in line. IS this big check valve is enough?

chdesign · May 10, 2002

it may be enough but I doubt it keep adding check valves till the CEL goes off and if it doesn't it sounds like a catalyst code. You took off your 1st cat and therefore screwed with the ECU's stock parameters in that you will throw a check engine. Even if you had the 2nd O2 moved behind the 2nd cat you would still throw a cat singal of exhaust gas too cold and that will throw up the CEL too. Isn't OBDII fun!!!!!!!!!

spoolinmp3 · May 10, 2002

At first I was having a problem with after 4800rpm, the engine felt like it was hesitating, at first I thought it was because of a lean condition or rich air/fuel. I then added a check valve and now the condition still exists but close to 6000rpm. I am confused on why this is happening but it feels like when the motor is overly rich and studders. Maybe I will try to add another check valve or 2 and if that does not work then...well I dont know

BryanPendleton · May 11, 2002

spoolinmp3(2) said:
I am not sure about this but is it not better to run the maf infront of the compressor to draw air? I was under the impression that maf's dont like boost? I have never seen it configured that way.....is yours set up like that and what are the pros and cons?

Also does the probe have an egr setup? And how does your motor respond in the upper rpm range to boost?

I ALWAYS recommend putting MAF before compressor, for the very reason you mentioned, plus I don't believe MAF's are calibrated for measure air under pressure. But the Mustang guys often run the MAF after the blower, in many supercharger applications. . . *shrug*

I have removed the EGR all together on my car, and I am running a Haltech E6K, so I don't have a MAF. At my car screams at high rpms. . . Correction, DID scream.

spoolinmp3 · May 11, 2002

I have removed the EGR all together on my car, and I am running a Haltech E6K, so I don't have a MAF. At my car screams at high rpms. . . Correction, DID scream.

Do you mean that you junked all of the egr plumbing and plugged up the hole on the intake manifold(where the egr used to connect)? Also did you ever boost your car before you had the e6k in? How easy is it to tune(user friendly?)
Thanks again

spoolinmp3 · May 11, 2002

Also what type of turbo are you utilizing on your FS? When do you realize maximum boost(or how laggy is it?)
Is it easy to get a nice solid idle with the e6k? Sorry for all the questions just contemplating the upgrade to a tec2 or e6k. Thanks

BryanPendleton · May 11, 2002

spoolinmp3 said:
Do you mean that you junked all of the egr plumbing and plugged up the hole on the intake manifold(where the egr used to connect)? Also did you ever boost your car before you had the e6k in? How easy is it to tune(user friendly?)
Thanks again

All EGR plumbing scraped and hole in intake plugged. That is correct.

Before the Haltech, I was boosting with a recalibrated MAF and 440cc injector combination. The ONLY control I had (besides reprogramming the ECU, which I did not do) was the calibration knobs on my aftermarket MAF. This combination worked beautifully for me though. That car idled like the stock car, which was amazing considering the fuel injectors were twice the stock size. The only drivability issue I was aware of was "off-throttle" situations when coming out of boost. Because the BOV was dumping "metered" air, the car would die or try to die, if the throttle was not "blipped" to burn the fuel the ECU was dumping.

I had a S-AFC that I had planned to install, but a hose tore between the turbo and MAF. . . . threw of fueling, and KABOOOOOOMMM!!! as chdesign puts it.

OK it wasn't that dramatic, but piston ring lands went south.

Never used stock ECU again after that

BryanPendleton · May 11, 2002

spoolinmp3 said:
Also what type of turbo are you utilizing on your FS? When do you realize maximum boost(or how laggy is it?)
Is it easy to get a nice solid idle with the e6k? Sorry for all the questions just contemplating the upgrade to a tec2 or e6k. Thanks

Turbo - a Turbonetics T04E 46-trim compressor and T3 .48A/R with Stage II turbin wheel and ceramic ball-bearing centersection.

Per datalogging with Haltech, I have 6psi by 3000. I never got a datalog when running 12psi.

Idle was great. Slightly higher than stock, probably around 800-900. There was still lots of tuning and drivibility issues to work out. Having the standalone, is awesome, but tweaking all the different fuel corrections for the "perfect" idle and drivability take time, and well, my motor will not stay together long enough to fully tweak it. I have no experience with any other standalone, but I LOVE the E6K. Datalogging, realtime display of any sensor, countless flexibilty. . . . I just love it. That and getting the strange looks from other drivers as I tweak various fuel correction and maps while sitting at stop lights.

Stou · May 11, 2002

Bryan, this E6K unit look very good but kind of very expensive too.

Right now I'm looking for cheaper alternative.

Stou · May 11, 2002

chdesign, you where so right!!!

I installed 3 check valves in line and the car is running great. No more CEL and I can go over 5000 rpm whitout any problem!!!

Guys, if you ever come to Montreal, just let me know and I'll pay you a lunch and a couple of beer!!!

Now I only need to change my clutch and it will be so coooooool!

spoolinmp3 · May 11, 2002

Before the Haltech, I was boosting with a recalibrated MAF and 440cc injector combination. The ONLY control I had (besides reprogramming the ECU, which I did not do) was the calibration knobs on my aftermarket MAF.

Thanks for the info, usually everbody is asking me all the questions, but now I get to ask somebody that has more experience with FS series motors

As for the MAF was it off of another car or was it an aftermarket one that could be recalibrated?

Stou thats great!! Did you use the same check valves or different ones? You put them all inline together?

Thanks
Spoolin

Stou · May 11, 2002

Spoolin, I used the 3 small plastic one way check valves and put it inline one after the other instead of the other big one.

I just came back from a ride and the CEL got on but the car still runing fine. I think it's the second o2 sensor this time. It probably get to much o2 since I don't have any more cat. I'll order and o2 sensor next week.

o2 cheater

Did anybody know this o2 cheater?

spoolinmp3 · May 11, 2002

Spoolin, I used the 3 small plastic one way check valves and put it inline one after the other instead of the other big one.

Thats wierd

What brand or type did you use? Were did you get them from?

attn: spoolin and chdesign

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