I just added two 12" subs, and it sounds great inside the car, but all you can hear on the outside is the trunk rattle. I've tried taking off the license plate, the spare tire and tools, and the back panel where the factory speakers are. I've even dynamated the trunk, but nothing seems to help. Has anyone solved this problem?
Trunk Rattle
- Thread starter Swimmer
- Start date
What type of Dynamat did you use? I have used Dynamat Xtreme on the bottom of the trunk and on the sides, even down in the tire well. I have not put any on the trunk lid, but that is next. Where I hear most of the rattle is in the bummper. On the drive side rear. So I am going to take off the bummper and put dynamat between the bummper and the foam because I think that is where most of the rattle is coming from. Until I get my systme in there I cant be 100 percent sure, but check that bummper and see if it is making the most noise.
No. The words wind (as in: The wind blew across the plain) and wind (as in: let's wind the winch, or let's wind out the engine of my car) are spelled the same way, but are pronounced differently.
The first one that deals with moving air is pronounced with a "short" I. It is pronounced and used the way you indicated in your most recent post.
The second one that deals with twisting or coiling motions is pronounced with a "long" I. It is the proper use and spelling for the action that you are trying to refer to in your signature line.
The "long" I means that the "I" in the word is pronounced as though you were saying the letter as it stands alone, or if you were reciting the alphabet. The "short" I is a secondary pronunciation and would be said more like "ih", as in the word "fish".
If you go to www.m-w.com and select definition number "4,verb" of the word "wind", you can click on the little speaker icon and hear it pronounced.
Just thought you might like to know.
The first one that deals with moving air is pronounced with a "short" I. It is pronounced and used the way you indicated in your most recent post.
The second one that deals with twisting or coiling motions is pronounced with a "long" I. It is the proper use and spelling for the action that you are trying to refer to in your signature line.
The "long" I means that the "I" in the word is pronounced as though you were saying the letter as it stands alone, or if you were reciting the alphabet. The "short" I is a secondary pronunciation and would be said more like "ih", as in the word "fish".
If you go to www.m-w.com and select definition number "4,verb" of the word "wind", you can click on the little speaker icon and hear it pronounced.
Just thought you might like to know.
No problem jsesq, I really dont think that I needed that type of lesson but it makes you feel all warm and cozy inside good for you. Next time I come across a word I will defintely call upon the english pronouncing master. On the other hand dealing with the topic of this thread lets talk about it. By the way, no way am I saying that you are not correct, but sometimes people push a little to hard. Are you wanting a gauge pod for your car? 
Ill be sure to get yours first on order.....
Ill be sure to get yours first on order..... I didn't mean to push too hard or offend you (at least not with my first post), I really was just trying to help you out since it was on your signature line.
As far as the gauge pod - do you have any pictures or drawings I could look at. That is one of my bigger complaints about this car - insufficient instrumentation.
As for the actual topic at hand - I really haven't noticed that rattle you guys are referring to. I do have the "clunk" that most people seem to think is suspension related. I generally don't have the stereo up loud enough to vibrate the car that much, but I have heard that the Dynamat material can help.
As far as the gauge pod - do you have any pictures or drawings I could look at. That is one of my bigger complaints about this car - insufficient instrumentation.
As for the actual topic at hand - I really haven't noticed that rattle you guys are referring to. I do have the "clunk" that most people seem to think is suspension related. I generally don't have the stereo up loud enough to vibrate the car that much, but I have heard that the Dynamat material can help.
It really sounds to me like it's coming from the trunk itself. Anothing thing, if I push down really hard on the trunk from underneath the spoiler, the rattle stops. That lead me to believe that maybe the trunk wasn't shutting tight, and causing the rattle. But I don't know exactly where it would be rattling from, since there is rubber all the way around the seal. I even tried laying towels around the edge before I shut it, just to make sure that it was very tight and that nothing would be vibrating, but that didn't stop the rattle. So now I don't know. Oh and the dynamat that I used was the dynamat original trunk kit. I put it all along the top. Man that stuff is ugly.
Most people get told the wrong info all the time. I've lost count of guys walking into my shop, ready to shell out hundreds of dollars for Dynamat to stop their rattles. One problem, though: Dynamat wasn't designed to stop heavy vibration rattles, like from lots of bass. It's original purpose was to stop minor resonances on panels, like from road noise resonances. If I talk over your head here, I'm sorry, but I think most of us are smart enough to understand:
The metal panels in your car all have a specific "resonant frequency", meaning that as they are vibrated, such as from driving, they carry that frequency and amplify it. A better example would be this: That metal panel in the rear deck vibrates really bad on ONE SPECIFIC bass note from my rear speakers. That specific note is that panels "resonant frequency". All panels in your car have this, and Dynamat was designed to add mass to that panel, changing it's resonant frequency, and eliminating the buzzing sound. s***, look under your carpet and trunk floor, your car should have that tar crap all over the place. Same stuff, and without it you wouldn't want to drive your car on the highway from the sound (read the SCC article where they removed all this stuff from their project Civic SI to try and save weight! Said it was really loud)
The difference here is that you guys are trying to stop a rattle caused by MOVING SOUNDWAVES physically moving the panels, and dynamat's not gonna stop soundwaves. You might have insulated part of the rattle with the material, but you could've use foam tape or cloth or something much cheaper and had the same effect. Once you find the source of the rattle and insulate it, don't be suprised if another doesn't pop up just as bad somewhere else. Sound wave vibrations are like water: They'll get into everything no matter how well insulated and sealed you think you have it.
The only prolem is you still have to find the rattle you've got now. I wish you luck and hope this info at least saves you a little $$$
The metal panels in your car all have a specific "resonant frequency", meaning that as they are vibrated, such as from driving, they carry that frequency and amplify it. A better example would be this: That metal panel in the rear deck vibrates really bad on ONE SPECIFIC bass note from my rear speakers. That specific note is that panels "resonant frequency". All panels in your car have this, and Dynamat was designed to add mass to that panel, changing it's resonant frequency, and eliminating the buzzing sound. s***, look under your carpet and trunk floor, your car should have that tar crap all over the place. Same stuff, and without it you wouldn't want to drive your car on the highway from the sound (read the SCC article where they removed all this stuff from their project Civic SI to try and save weight! Said it was really loud)
The difference here is that you guys are trying to stop a rattle caused by MOVING SOUNDWAVES physically moving the panels, and dynamat's not gonna stop soundwaves. You might have insulated part of the rattle with the material, but you could've use foam tape or cloth or something much cheaper and had the same effect. Once you find the source of the rattle and insulate it, don't be suprised if another doesn't pop up just as bad somewhere else. Sound wave vibrations are like water: They'll get into everything no matter how well insulated and sealed you think you have it.
The only prolem is you still have to find the rattle you've got now. I wish you luck and hope this info at least saves you a little $$$
So sttl013, what do you tell these people when they come into your shop? I was thinking about taking it to a pro to see if they can stop it. Do you tell them that it's hopeless, or do you find the rattle and fix it? I think it would be worth some money if it could be fixed. I put some serious cash in the system already, but I'm ashamed to play it. Are you saying that it's hopeless to take it to a shop?
Swimmer: it all depends on the severity of the rattles. I get some cars that there really is no hope of fixing. A new car with a couple of 12's, however, shouldn't be all that much work. Save yourself a little money though, it's not like there's a "professional rattle stopper" somewhere, so most people are just guessing as much as you are, only you're paying them. Try this: use some cheap material, like old rags or carpet scraps and stuff it between the braces and the sheet metal, fill up open areas, like behind the side panels, with blankets and such. You stated pushing on the trunk lid under the spoiler stopped it? check under the trunk lid, is there a support brace under where you're pushing? This is the stuff I look for, and then go from there.
