Rotary Nutz, give me your opinions, please!!

ENGINE ENGINE ENGINE

Always be wary of used rotaries! That's what the folks I know with '7's tell me. Who knows if the issue this car has above 4000rpms doesn't have to do with worn apex seals?
 
Yeah from the description in the auction, it sounds like the engine may have bad apex seals on at least one of the rotors.

I used to own an '82 and '91 RX7. Both of them were excellent cars, but needed constant tuning and attention. This is a car that requires a lot of time and devotion. If maintained properly, you can get many miles off of a rotary engine.

When I sold my '91, the rear apex seals were bad on my engine and it had about 150K on it. This is because the metering oil pump failed and wasn't replaced in time. The metering oil pump (MOP) injects oil into the rotor housings to cool the apex seals and provide proper lubrication at high RPMs. If this pump fails, so will the apex seals. Make sure you perform a compression test on the engine to check the seals. You can't use a regular compression tester on a rotary.

Also, the 86-91 RX7 has a few electrical system issues. One of them is cold solder points on the CPU. This causes idiot lights and the buzzer to randomly flash. Also, the clock in the idiot light cluster can have this same cold solder problem. The wiper switch is also prone to failure and either the entire switch, or the relay needs replacing. The shifter bushings are almost always shot in the 86-88's because they are both plastic and wear out. There are a few more quirks with this car, but I just wanted to list a few. If you need more info, a good website is www.fc3s.org

Good Luck :)
 
thanks everyone, keep the info coming! looks like i may pick it up for cheap too, bids were retracted :)
 
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Too bad you don't live close to me. I've got an 82 GSL in my barn that I need to get rid of. It's got a dead engine (apex seals, guy's wife ran it low on coolant) but a bunch of new parts. It has the LSD (factory) and the 4 wheel discs. I only want $150 out of it so if anyone wants a good start for a rally project or needs parts, get hold of me. The engine is a low mileage crate engine (guy I bought it from was just sick about his wife not watching the temp gauge!). The carberator is practically new, the water pump, alternator, radiator, master cylinder and booster are all new. Several of the brake lines in the engine compartment are new. The car is just sitting in my barn collecting dust right now.
 
sounds like the engine will need a rebuild soon, so add 1-2k into the fix-up fund.

there are body panels rusting, do you really want to drive a car that has body panels rusting and possible weakening of the chassis by the rust????

personally i would stay away from this car unless you are willing to put the $$ down to fix up the engine and body. I'd say around 3-4k for these 2 major fixes, plus all the electrical bugs....

good luck!
 
he says it's just sluggish above 4k... That's generally NOT a problem with seals... That's generally a clogged cat or stuck 6th ports, both of which are pretty simple and easy to fix.

113k on a NA rotary is nothing to be afraid of.. Now on a turbo you migt start gettin a bit wary, but that's nothing for an NA.


The signs of needed a new engine would be more along the lines of burning oil, leaking colant from the block, significant smoke at startup, flooding, and trouble starting when the engine is warm.

I'm gonna have to go against the rest here and say go for it. (after you ask about the aforementioned problems of course)

Bodywork is fixable, but check to see if the rust is more significant than he's letting on. I doubt it's ever going to be a show car, but it has potential to be a very good fun & reliable daily driver all teh way to 200k or so...
 

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