Jacking up the CX5

O

Oblivion247

Member
:
2015 Cx5 GS
Hi,

I was jacking up the CX5 using the front cross member, is there supposed to be a grey metal cover over top it or something. I used that and now its all bent. I can't upload a pic of it.
 
Yeah.... on second look. I definitely jacked it up by the wrong spot. That cover is for noise reduction or something? It doesn't look like I damaged anything other than the cover.
 
Does anybody know what the cover is that is behind the front crossmember jack point? There is a part # KB7W-56393 and can't find it anywhere.
 
Oblivion247 said:
Does anybody know what the cover is that is behind the front crossmember jack point? There is a part # KB7W-56393 and can't find it anywhere.
Click to expand...

Google "part # KB7W-56393" and shows me this as first on the list https://www.mazdapartswebstore.com/p/Mazda__/PLATE-SEAL/67992358/KB7W56393.html ... not sure if this is the one but thanks for this lesson since I am planning to jack up my CX5 soon to replace my winter tires ...

Also it would be nice to see which part did you jack it up so we can see the damage...
 
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The under body covers are for aerodynamics.

Just use the normal jack points and do one wheel at a time, I also use an hydraulic jack as back up to the mechanical one, using a sensible body point.
 
You can pretty much jack up on any solid point on the frame or subframe of most vehicles, and there's also actual lift points on the rockers for each corner. Never use anything that seems flimsy or begins to bend when you put the jack up to touch it. It should be pretty obvious, pretty soon into jacking up, whether the location you've chosen is suitable. You can never go wrong with the proper lift points tho, unless the rockers are rotted out.

As for the part, a picture of the parts your talking about would def help if you're having trouble finding the part online or at your dealership. It sounds like a heat shield or aero-cover from what you're describing; neither of which really matter much if they're bent or cracked for operation of a vehicle.
 
I find the illustrations in the manual very difficult to parse. If anybody has an actual picture of the front and/or rear jack points on the AWD 17/18 I'd appreciate a link.
 
The book illustration is clearer then a photo would be. The jack has a slot and fits over the sheet metal flange. The exact spot on the flange is marked by 2 dimples (or bubbles) in the flange - what look like holes in the picture. This flange runs the length of the car, a couple inches back from the outer edge of the car.

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What some people do with roll under jacks is they get a block of wood and cut a slit into it, this block sits on the jack and fits around the flange.

The other option is to roll the jack under a suspension component. But as always be careful and make sure whatever point you pick can handle the weight of the vehicle.
 

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I'm sure I am not alone in my complete and utter hatred of the pinch-welded flange as a jacking point on any modern unibody car. While I appreciate it prevents idiots from accidentally placing the jack in the wrong spot, it also makes using a standard floor or bottle jack a pain.

In my case, my local stealer managed to bend over and flatten the flanges on both sides of my CX-9 during a service visit. I only discovered it much later when I went to jack up the car.
 
Thaumaturge said:
I'm sure I am not alone in my complete and utter hatred of the pinch-welded flange as a jacking point on any modern unibody car. While I appreciate it prevents idiots from accidentally placing the jack in the wrong spot, it also makes using a standard floor or bottle jack a pain.

In my case, my local stealer managed to bend over and flatten the flanges on both sides of my CX-9 during a service visit. I only discovered it much later when I went to jack up the car.
Click to expand...

It is a challenge with unibody design - no more full frame. But I can tell you many older cars with full frame have serious dents where people used a bottlejack directly on a point of the frame. But full frame does work well with floor/rolling jacks.
 
alphadog00 said:
The book illustration is clearer then a photo would be. The jack has a slot and fits over the sheet metal flange. The exact spot on the flange is marked by 2 dimples (or bubbles) in the flange - what look like holes in the picture. This flange runs the length of the car, a couple inches back from the outer edge of the car.



What some people do with roll under jacks is they get a block of wood and cut a slit into it, this block sits on the jack and fits around the flange.

The other option is to roll the jack under a suspension component. But as always be careful and make sure whatever point you pick can handle the weight of the vehicle.
Click to expand...

http://www.mcx5.org/jacking_positio...nd_safety_stand_rigid_rack_positions-204.html

The pinch weld points are clear. I'm talking lifting the front end at once or the rear end at once. For the rear it says the transfer the transfer case, that shouldn't be hard to locate. The picture is crappy, looks kinda like its lifting by the tailpipe. Now I have a class III hitch, so could probably just lift it by that.

The front picture isn't so clear. It shows a blow up of a textured surface, doesn't look like a solid feature, pretty deep in from the front of the car.
 
murky said:
http://www.mcx5.org/jacking_positio...nd_safety_stand_rigid_rack_positions-204.html

The pinch weld points are clear. I'm talking lifting the front end at once or the rear end at once. For the rear it says the transfer the transfer case, that shouldn't be hard to locate. The picture is crappy, looks kinda like its lifting by the tailpipe. Now I have a class III hitch, so could probably just lift it by that.

The front picture isn't so clear. It shows a blow up of a textured surface, doesn't look like a solid feature, pretty deep in from the front of the car.
Click to expand...

I just looked at mine... just like the picture. I small dimpled/textured piece of metal visible from front and sides, but basically between front wheels.
 
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