Takes forever to get heat.

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2013sport

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Mazda cx5 2016
Hello
Wife has 2016 cx5 I believe it's a gs whatever the base model is with 2.0l.

I had to drive it to work on my night shifts and it takes forever to get heat inside.
Outside temp was only -5c. I started it let in run for 15 min then drove 20 min home and still had no heat.
I noticed when I do a cold start the electric fans come on at startup. I belive the fans should not come on until it's warmed up and reached a set temp.

Could the fans be my problem or other issue?
Anyone else have same issue?

Thanks.

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definitely take it to the dealer.
The fans should not come on when the engine is cold.

heck.. mine rarely even come on in 100F heat.
 
2013sport said:
Hello
Wife has 2016 cx5 I believe it's a gs whatever the base model is with 2.0l.

I had to drive it to work on my night shifts and it takes forever to get heat inside.
Outside temp was only -5c. I started it let in run for 15 min then drove 20 min home and still had no heat.
I noticed when I do a cold start the electric fans come on at startup. I belive the fans should not come on until it's warmed up and reached a set temp.
Click to expand...
Odds are what you're hearing is the engine starting in "cold start mode" during which it makes a lot of noise (sounds like it's running rough) for about 20-30 seconds and then settles into a more normal idle. At (only!) -5c, this whole process could take longer. Has nothing to do with the fan.
 
I had the hood popped and started the car then went and seen the fans. So it is not just noise.

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You should not be running the car for that long, in that moderate cold temp. You are diluting the engine oil, wasting money, and potentially the diluted oil can cause engine damage. If it's significantly colder (-15 f) I'd suggest running the engine until any ice on the inside or outside of the windshield is melted, and then driving gently.

Modern, high-efficiency engines do there best to NOT create a lot of waste heat. You will warm the engine fastest by gently driving it. (I lived 1 city block from a 65 mph highway. For 4 years, including some of the most cold winters in my area, I would idle a Honda Civic for at most 5 minutes (at around -20 f), then drive that one block, then hit the highway for a 30 minute drive at 65 mph. I sold that Civic with 12 years and 165,000 miles on it. It burned less than 1/2 quart of oil over a 5,000 mile oil change interval at that point.)

I don't know which climate system you have, I assume one with an 'automatic' setting. If you don't like the fan running right away, turn the temp dial down, that will slow or stop the fan, until such time as you know the engine will output hot air, rather than air just warm enough to defrost the windows (which is a safety feature.)
 
I routinely drive 5.3 miles one way to church. I run the heat on automatic and by the time I get there (no stops) The car is just getting comfortable. The heat starts coming on after about two miles. Your car needs service.
 
cx-500 said:
You should not be running the car for that long, in that moderate cold temp. You are diluting the engine oil, wasting money, and potentially the diluted oil can cause engine damage. If it's significantly colder (-15 f) I'd suggest running the engine until any ice on the inside or outside of the windshield is melted, and then driving gently.

Modern, high-efficiency engines do there best to NOT create a lot of waste heat. You will warm the engine fastest by gently driving it. (I lived 1 city block from a 65 mph highway. For 4 years, including some of the most cold winters in my area, I would idle a Honda Civic for at most 5 minutes (at around -20 f), then drive that one block, then hit the highway for a 30 minute drive at 65 mph. I sold that Civic with 12 years and 165,000 miles on it. It burned less than 1/2 quart of oil over a 5,000 mile oil change interval at that point.)

I don't know which climate system you have, I assume one with an 'automatic' setting. If you don't like the fan running right away, turn the temp dial down, that will slow or stop the fan, until such time as you know the engine will output hot air, rather than air just warm enough to defrost the windows (which is a safety feature.)
Click to expand...
That's what I'm saying it takes 15 min to remove ice from the windshield. Because the 2 electric fans come on when I start the cold car. Fans should not come on till engine is at operating temperature. My truck starts getting heat after 2-5 min enough to melt ice on windshield (safe to drive).

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"fans should not come on"... yeah, they will, if you left the A/C on! Even if you didn't push the "A/C" button, it WILL be forced on if you left the windshield in defrost mode and/or foot mode... and if the A/C is left on, you're going to get cold air out of the vents because A/C is supposed to get cold!
 
So I guess heat is not an option because the a/c is somehow always on. Not sure when I said I had the a/c on while trying to get heat.

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2013sport said:
That's what I'm saying it takes 15 min to remove ice from the windshield. Because the 2 electric fans come on when I start the cold car. Fans should not come on till engine is at operating temperature. My truck starts getting heat after 2-5 min enough to melt ice on windshield (safe to drive).

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Click to expand...

Your truck burns more gas, creating more heat. That's an unfortunate side-effect of small, efficient engines. I agree with TheMAN, it sounds like this might be due to having the defrost or defrost/feet airflow selected. You DO want to direct air to the defrost vents at winter startup. Even though the air won't be hot, the heat that's in it will remove moisture from the inside of the windshield.

Have you manually set the fan speed? If I put my 'climate control' system on automatic, I can slow down the fan speed by setting a cooler temperature. Or I can manually set the fan speed I want, at any time.

What HVAC system do you have? Automatic or fully manual? How do you have all the controls set?
 
2013sport said:
So I guess heat is not an option because the a/c is somehow always on. Not sure when I said I had the a/c on while trying to get heat.

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Click to expand...

It's important to note that with the A/C set ON, the compressor will only run until the evap coil (inside the dash) is cooled to a few degrees above freezing. There's a temp sensor clipped to the evap core, downstream side, to determine the temp of the core. It must be kept above freezing, or the core will freeze water vapor inside the fins, blocking airflow. I don't know if the heater core is before or after the evap core. I would think it would be before/upstream, so it can melt any water frozen to the evap coil on shutdown and cooling of the car.
 
2013sport said:
So I guess heat is not an option because the a/c is somehow always on. Not sure when I said I had the a/c on while trying to get heat.

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Click to expand...

you didn't have to say
you said the radiator fans were turning on... that's enough indication you either left the A/C on (intentionally or inadvertently)
 
I have completely manual hvac controls. Set to highest heat. Set to defrost the windshield. The a/c has NOT been on either intentionally or unintentionally since early September.

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Not sure if your model is the same, but here's what the owner's manual for my '16 CX-5 Touring (with manual hvac controls) says:

"In the [defrost] position, the air conditioner is automatically turned on and the outside air position is automatically selected to defrost the windshield. In the [defrost] position, the outside air position cannot be changed to the recirculated air position."

In defrost mode, the air conditioning compressor automatically comes on. That is indicated when the amber light on the left dial is on.
 
So it is normal for.the fans to be on when I have the hvac set to defrost the windshield? And that is normal for at least the cx5

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Surely it shouldn't matter whether the radiator cooling fan is on or not, since the thermostat is restricting the coolant flow to only the engine and heater until it gets hot enough to let some hot through to the rad and draw some cold back?
 
Yes, it's normal for the fans to be on, in the engine compartment, when the defrost is selected.
 
Sounds like bad sensor or stuck valve to heater core, heat should come out vents; doesn't matter if ac is on (it often is, to dry air). Dealer will get you a faster answer than internet brigade...
 
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