break pedal vibrates

sangs

Member
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mazda
When I am driving 60mph+ , and then if I touch break pedal with feet , I can feel that break vibrates . Is that normal for Mazda ?(huh)
 
Is it normal? Of course not. And I'm glad you're touching it with your feet. Using your hands or another body part would be tough! :)
Could be that you're rotors are warped and need to be turned (smoothed). If they are somewhat uneven you'll feel a pulsing or vibration when breaking from high speed.
 
If there's one way to upset a brake engineer, it's to call brakes breaks ;-).

Warped discs usually transmit vibrations through the steering wheel long before anything is felt in the brake pedal. If this is quite a high frequency vibration - a bit like running a finger nail through a comb, I would suggest that the ABS/VSC is modulating all the time. It's usually down to a faulty sensor or a cracked or dirty exciter toothed wheel. A good mechanic should soon home in on it.
 
I third the warped discs idea. You will need to send it to a shop or dealership where they will resurface the effected rotors. You can help them out by saying if it's on the front or rear. If you hit the brake pedal and the pedal vibrates as well as the steering wheel, you know it's the front discs that are warped. If the steering wheel doesn't vibrate, then you can be assured it's from the back and they will do the two back rotors together.

Warped discs can be caused by a few things:
1) Brakes are a bit hot and they cool down too quickly, such as going through a puddle
2) Brakes get super hot and you stop the car and they cool down when sitting
3) Brakes are not set right and the brakes get too hot too often
 
Is it normal? Of course not. And I'm glad you're touching it with your feet. Using your hands or another body part would be tough! :)
Could be that you're rotors are warped and need to be turned (smoothed). If they are somewhat uneven you'll feel a pulsing or vibration when breaking from high speed.

You just ain't built like I am!

OP, this sounds like one of 3 things.

1: Tires out of balance/round (possible, but down on the list)
2: Road surface (I experience this on certain roads, myself, 50/50)
3: Warped rotors (Likely. If the tires were rotated and the correct torque specs not adhered to, the hats warp. Ask me how I know...and no, it has NOTHING to do with getting the brakes hot or any such nonsense. This is either a manufacturing issue (not likely at all), or an installer/maintenance issue. I went round and round and round with this on my 370Z until two GT-R cert. techs finally did everything by hand, and magically...the issue stopped happening, and Nissan NA paid for a bunch of parts, but I still ate $400 in Stoptech pads and Slotted Z1 rotors...pissed).

Turning the rotors will not really work if they are bent due to crappy install sometimes. It's worth a try, but honestly, I'd replace them. I found a good replacement is NAPA Gold. Rock Auto also sells THE SAME IDENTICAL ITEM as Napa Gold under the "Raybestos best/premium" line. I compared specs, photos, everything when I did the rotors on my GJC, and they were 100% identical to NAPA Gold. I also used Raybestos control arms on that GJC, and they were better than OEM, IMO. Raybestos is a killer deal, IMO, at least for my Grand Jeep Cherokee. I have never been let down by their parts. Dealer (GM dealer) charged me $100 to replace the rotors. Rotors cost me $100 (both fronts).

Anyway, if you do have rotor issues, 95% sure it's your fronts.
 
I third the warped discs idea. You will need to send it to a shop or dealership where they will resurface the effected rotors. You can help them out by saying if it's on the front or rear. If you hit the brake pedal and the pedal vibrates as well as the steering wheel, you know it's the front discs that are warped. If the steering wheel doesn't vibrate, then you can be assured it's from the back and they will do the two back rotors together.

Warped discs can be caused by a few things:
1) Brakes are a bit hot and they cool down too quickly, such as going through a puddle
2) Brakes get super hot and you stop the car and they cool down when sitting
3) Brakes are not set right and the brakes get too hot too often

I have never experienced any of the above, and I've done a LOT of the above. The whole "pads contaminating the rotor" thing just doesn't apply to 99% of the pads used on vehicles driven on the street, or the temps reached when driven on the street. I have faded the living hell out of some brakes on the street, too. Never an issue However, heat CAN! make a warped rotor worse. Like throwing gasoline on a fire. Almost every warped rotor issue I have ever seen is a bent hat due to using a pneumatic wrench without the correct torque bar, or one that exceeds OEM torque spec even with the "correct" torque bar.
 
Here is a video of my 370Z when I was dealing with Nissan NA on the whole issue of improperly installed rims...(due to a tire change).

 
Thank you guys for the feedback. Oh !! I completed only 2500 miles on my new CX5 . I have my first service scheduled next month. Will bring this issue up.

I have 2 questions

1) Is my driving style can be the reason for it ? ( I drive in the mostly in the city )
2) Is fixing this rotor a complex process ? Can they fix it in my first service quickly ?
 
Thank you guys for the feedback. Oh !! I completed only 2500 miles on my new CX5 . I have my first service scheduled next month. Will bring this issue up.

I have 2 questions

1) Is my driving style can be the reason for it ? ( I drive in the mostly in the city ) This is possible, always, but I'm having doubts.
2) Is fixing this rotor a complex process ? Can they fix it in my first service quickly ?

No, whatever is wrong with the rotor (if it is the rotor), is simple as cake to fix.
 
I have never experienced any of the above, and I've done a LOT of the above. The whole "pads contaminating the rotor" thing just doesn't apply to 99% of the pads used on vehicles driven on the street, or the temps reached when driven on the street. I have faded the living hell out of some brakes on the street, too. Never an issue However, heat CAN! make a warped rotor worse. Like throwing gasoline on a fire. Almost every warped rotor issue I have ever seen is a bent hat due to using a pneumatic wrench without the correct torque bar, or one that exceeds OEM torque spec even with the "correct" torque bar.

Well yeah, I said a few. Not every reason why they warp. From what I saw when I was at a dealer, that's what caused warped rotors. There's definitely other ways. People always find a way...
 
In the case of the OP, since you have such low mileage, I'm guessing you didn't get the briefing when you picked up the car, to be easy on the brakes for the first 1,000 miles. If your hard on them, before break in, warping is very possible. Maybe that's the reason, but if you can, think back when you had to do an emergency stop, or jammed on the brakes for any other reason. They don't warp because they can, there's always, always, always a reason, and 9 times out of 10, it's caused by massive heat.
 
In the case of the OP, since you have such low mileage, I'm guessing you didn't get the briefing when you picked up the car, to be easy on the brakes for the first 1,000 miles. If your hard on them, before break in, warping is very possible. Maybe that's the reason, but if you can, think back when you had to do an emergency stop, or jammed on the brakes for any other reason. They don't warp because they can, there's always, always, always a reason, and 9 times out of 10, it's caused by massive heat.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
Uneven pad deposits on the rotor(s) due to rotor hot spots can cause brake pulsation as well. Have the dealership check and turn the offending rotor(s), using a brake lathe. The technicians know that the rotor thickness cannot be less than the number that is cast into the rotor.
 
Not a bit of it. On a new car you want new discs if it is the discs which I doubt if it doesn't vibrate the wheel.

And another thing, don't leave it for a month if the brakes are playing up. Get it sorted.
 
The dealership won't replace rotors just because you tell them to. I went through this type of scenario, and the dealership service manager told me that he would turn the rotors that one time. The next time, he would charge me for new rotors (that would probably have the same issue).
The first incident of pulsating brake pedal occured at 6000 mile (previous car) and happened again at 12,000 miles. That time I bought slotted rotors and never had uneven deposits again, even after 40,000 miles of 70% city driving.
 
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