Ignition is On in LCD dashboard

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bmninada

Contributor
:
2016 CX-5 AWD GT+iActive Soul Red
Car's starting fine. But when in ON position (push button 2x, without brake pressed) 2 things are happening:
1. The car behind a lock keeps rapidly blinking.
2. The display which is a LCD screen shows message Ignition is On.

At this point, if I press brakes and press start again, car does start up. But?
 
Sorry, I am getting the message "Ignition is On" displayed in the dashboard (not Infotainment) when I press the push button twice. Along with it,, the "Car Behind the lock" icon rapidly flashes.
 
mazdamarty said:
I don't understand what this post is asking/telling?
Click to expand...

Don't think too hard, this forum member has a solid history of odd CX-5 "issues" that make little sense. The common thread is all his issues serve to plant doubt and seed distrust that the CX-5 is a solid, dependable car. I'm not sure if it's just an odd character flaw or a deliberate strategy but his reported issues are hard to align with reality. This is just my observation based on his post history which anyone can verify by reviewing his previous posts. It's highly unusual.
 
mikem. said:
don't think too hard, this forum member has a solid history of odd cx-5 "issues" that make little sense. The common thread is all his issues serve to plant doubt and seed distrust that the cx-5 is a solid, dependable car. I'm not sure if it's just an odd character flaw or a deliberate strategy but his reported issues are hard to align with reality. This is just my observation based on his post history which anyone can verify by reviewing his previous posts. It's highly unusual.
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Okay. I am having a problem but since you don't have an answer you decided to add your 2 cents. Why the hell can't you get a life instead. I am just now back from dealership and they have given me a loaner. They can't figure out what this message means or why it's occurring.
 
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bmninada said:
Sorry, I am getting the message "Ignition is On" displayed in the dashboard (not Infotainment) when I press the push button twice. Along with it,, the "Car Behind the lock" icon rapidly flashes.
Click to expand...

So what exactly is the problem? From section 4 of the owners manual, pushing the start button once with foot off the brake is ACC position, two pushes is ON position. I can get the "Ignition is On" message after the first button push if I leave the drivers door open. Once I push the start button two times, all the "idiot lights" on the instrument cluster light and then go out (4 remain on, engine, seat belt, low coolant temp and charging).

The "Car Behind the lock" icon is the Security Indicator Light. It should be off with the proper key present.

BTW, pushing the start button a 3rd time will turn everything off (foot off the brake).

So can you say what is different about yours?
 
brillo54 said:
So what exactly is the problem? From section 4 of the owners manual, pushing the start button once with foot off the brake is ACC position, two pushes is ON position. I can get the "Ignition is On" message after the first button push if I leave the drivers door open. Once I push the start button two times, all the "idiot lights" on the instrument cluster light and then go out (4 remain on, engine, seat belt, low coolant temp and charging).

The "Car Behind the lock" icon is the Security Indicator Light. It should be off with the proper key present.

BTW, pushing the start button a 3rd time will turn everything off (foot off the brake).

So can you say what is different about yours?
Click to expand...

+1 I use this procedure updating my maps so I don't have to turn the car on and then off for 30 seconds.
 
bmninada said:
Car's starting fine. But when in ON position (push button 2x, without brake pressed) 2 things are happening:
1. The car behind a lock keeps rapidly blinking.
2. The display which is a LCD screen shows message Ignition is On.

At this point, if I press brakes and press start again, car does start up. But?
Click to expand...

Not understanding. There is an ACC mode that it will go into if you DON'T press the brake. That's 100% normal.

Sounds like everything is normal in the car.
 
brillo54 said:
So what exactly is the problem? From section 4 of the owners manual, pushing the start button once with foot off the brake is ACC position, two pushes is ON position. I can get the "Ignition is On" message after the first button push if I leave the drivers door open. Once I push the start button two times, all the "idiot lights" on the instrument cluster light and then go out (4 remain on, engine, seat belt, low coolant temp and charging).

The "Car Behind the lock" icon is the Security Indicator Light. It should be off with the proper key present.

BTW, pushing the start button a 3rd time will turn everything off (foot off the brake).

So can you say what is different about yours?
Click to expand...

Everything was the one you've described, except the driver door open and "Ignition is On" message. That, I didn't know.

What's happening now is funny: 1st. press, okay - everything like before. 2nd. press: the "car behind the lock" icon should come on and then go off. In my case, what's happening is it rapidly starts flashing and keeps flashing while the "Ignition is On" message continues. At this point - if I press 3rd. time, of course the car shuts down. Then, if I repeat every step, on 2nd. press everything returns back to normal, i.e. no problem.

Another option I tried, instead of shutting down, I tried to start the car by pressing the brakes and the 3rd. press.The car does NOT start up.

The dealership is suspecting the following:

1. The security chip (car behind lock is suggesting to them it could be the chip)
2. Somehow the door open sensors/buttons is having an issue.
3. Most probably - my remote start.

At this point - they are stumped and currently Mazda US has asked them a bunch of stuff, I have no idea what.
 
bmninada said:
The dealership is suspecting the following:

1. The security chip (car behind lock is suggesting to them it could be the chip)
2. Somehow the door open sensors/buttons is having an issue.
3. Most probably - my remote start.

At this point - they are stumped and currently Mazda US has asked them a bunch of stuff, I have no idea what.
Click to expand...

Of the 3 suspected items, I'd guess 1 than 3 than 2. The other thing I wonder ... did the "critical security issue" that you and your "friend" uncovered have an unintended consequence that is only now coming to light?
 
brillo54 said:
Of the 3 suspected items, I'd guess 1 than 3 than 2. The other thing I wonder ... did the "critical security issue" that you and your "friend" uncovered have an unintended consequence that is only now coming to light?
Click to expand...
No. I don't think so. Since this is happening now whereas that happened sometime back. Also Mazda guys themselves spent a lot of time evaluating the car and wiring. They at that time ran a full battery of tests.
 
Dealership opens at 7 and they called me! Anyways they are suspecting the wiring harness or the remote transmitter for the remote start. Somehow it's not releasing connections. The key fob registration for remote start also stopped working completely. Means remote start also stopped working saying error message A2 not registered.
 
bmninada said:
Dealership opens at 7 and they called me! Anyways they are suspecting the wiring harness or the remote transmitter for the remote start. Somehow it's not releasing connections. The key fob registration for remote start also stopped working completely. Means remote start also stopped working saying error message A2 not registered.
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Is it the OEM remote start or an aftermarket addition?

Hopefully they are the ones who installed the remote start and won't charge you again.

Most "issues" appear to be caused by someone working on the car without understanding the very systems they are working on.
 
MikeM. said:
Is it the OEM remote start or an aftermarket addition?

Hopefully they are the ones who installed the remote start and won't charge you again.

Most "issues" appear to be caused by someone working on the car without understanding the very systems they are working on.
Click to expand...

OEM remote, transmitter, hood switch and wiring harness.

Hood switch is left with me, unused. My car somehow had hood switch pre-installed. The remote's transmitter is plug-n-play. There's no scope for error. Open glove box, stick it in at a specified location. Plug-in the wiring harness. The wires get routed and then plug-in to a AUX connection. That's it. There's 1 final wire that gets grounded. I have gone underneath the glove box, opened the panels, box and re-verified everything. There's nothing out of the ordinary.
 
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Problem resolved. There are 2 key fobs with every car. 1 key fob got unregistered with the transmitter of the remote start. Whenever a start signal was sent to the transmitter it accepted it but since the 2nd. key fob "slot" in its own registration memory was blank, it just held on to the start signal. This caused some sort of circular loop within the system (car) effectively causing the Ignition is On to be present. It took dealership +2 days it seems and it took them to have multiple calls with Mazda Corp. Corp folks requested for a lot of details and acknowledged this should NOT have occurred. I am from IT background and frankly such circular loops are usually a bug. Anyways, its not that big a deal, now I am fire-fighting with hood switch issues - basically, as per Mazda US they are unable to figure out how my car came preinstalled with the hood switch. Dealership confirmed they have not installed it. I bought it in December 2015 with the actual build date of November 2015. That also has created issues since as per Mazda, such a sale date usually will have maximum July/August build dates. It seems the root cause of everything was related to a service I performed at the dealership where they ran a diagnostic on transmission and somehow messed up with remote start and security configurations.
 
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bmninada said:
It seems the root cause of everything was related to a service I performed at the dealership where they ran a diagnostic on transmission and somehow messed up with remote start and security configurations.
Click to expand...

This is why I stay as far away from the dealer as possible. Shortly after I took delivery in 2012 the backup camera failed due to water ingress and they replaced it under warranty with a camera with improved weather sealing. Before I left, I opened the rear hatch to inspect the workmanship. It looked good but as I was closing the hatch I noticed I couldn't get enough finger traction on the small indent where your hand goes to close the hatch. I looked at it and realized the technician had installed the item 180 degrees backwards, which is why I couldn't close the hatch. If these guys can't re-install a trim piece properly, do I trust them to work on brakes, wheels, etc? Of course not!

I haven't been in since the car was almost new (almost 4 years) and the thing runs like a Swiss watch. Most "issues" are due to human error. So, when it needs work, I'll either do it myself or take it to a small independent shop I trust.
 
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MikeM. said:
This is why I stay as far away from the dealer as possible. Shortly after I took delivery in 2012 the backup camera failed due to water ingress and they replaced it under warranty with a camera with improved weather sealing. Before I left, I opened the rear hatch to inspect the workmanship. It looked good but as I was closing the hatch I noticed I couldn't get enough finger traction on the small indent where your hand goes to close the hatch. I looked at it and realized the technician had installed the item 180 degrees backwards, which is why I couldn't close the hatch. If these guys can't re-install a trip piece properly, do I trust them to work on brakes, wheels, etc? Of course not!

I haven't been in since the car was almost new (almost 4 years) and the thing runs like a Swiss watch. Most "issues" are due to human error. So, when it needs work, I'll either do it myself or take it to a small independent shop I trust.
Click to expand...

I agree, for example - regular oil changes, scheduled maintenance I'd prefer DIY or my trusted mechanic. However, in my case there was some transmission shudders. I had to go to the dealership. I had one additional problem - whenever I press the brakes and then release it, I hear a squeak sound. Happens on and off. For both - at the end dealer said: "no problem found". The squeak remains, now slightly more pronounced. I have a feeling: worst case: master cylinder. Best case: road grime/salt (from winter).
 
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