Liftgate won't open whe cold

Just like the title says, my liftgate doen't open when the temperature drops below freezing. Anybody else ever have this issue?

I looked at the mechanism and nothing obvious so I'll probably have to take it to the dealer.

jaman_ca said:

Just like the title says, my liftgate doen't open when the temperature drops below freezing. Anybody else ever have this issue?

I looked at the mechanism and nothing obvious so I'll probably have to take it to the dealer.

Click to expand...

I wonder if one of your liftgate struts is on its way out?

jaman_ca said:

Just like the title says, my liftgate doen't open when the temperature drops below freezing. Anybody else ever have this issue?

I looked at the mechanism and nothing obvious so I'll probably have to take it to the dealer.

Click to expand...

Is your door seal freezing to the body?

As an avid skier I always wax around the door seal area and wipe down the rubber seals with a silicone product or dielectric grease. Dive shops have a silicone grease that works well on rubber seals. A little bit goes a long ways.

I just had this happen to me the other night, but was only about 50F (it's been relatively cold here in norcal). The rest of the doors unlock, but the button on the tailgate was not responding. Only after a few cycles of locking and unlocking via remote and the interior lock button, the tailgate finally unlocked and opened.

Have you also been having issues with the car not unlocking via remote? I've also been having issues with the car unlocking via remote in the mornings. I thought my key fob batt was low, but I tried with my second key fob that barely gets used, and it didn't respond to that either until a minute or two of continuously pressing the buttons on the remotes. However when it's warmer during lunch time or in the afternoon, the car responds just fine to the keyfobs.

Thanks for the replies. It's not the struts or seals...it's just that it stays locked. In general, I never have trouble opening/unlocking the liftgate in warm weather. The trouble only starts in cold (freezing?) Temps. For the next few days it will be a bit warmer here so probably won't have any issues. Once it gets cold again I'll play with it and if I have trouble then it goes to the dealer.

jaman_ca said:

Thanks for the replies. It's not the struts or seals...it's just that it stays locked. In general, I never have trouble opening/unlocking the liftgate in warm weather. The trouble only starts in cold (freezing?) Temps. For the next few days it will be a bit warmer here so probably won't have any issues. Once it gets cold again I'll play with it and if I have trouble then it goes to the dealer.

Click to expand...

For the lift gate to open two things need to happen The latch needs to be released, and the latch (and liftgate) need to be pushed out of the latched position. I strongly suspect that the latch is being released but the lift gate doesn't move so as soon as you let go of the button the liftgate is held again You can demonstrate this by pushing on the liftgate while pressing the remote. Push, press button. let go button, let go of the lift gate, it wont open.

In Other Words, It is not a electrical or remote issue it is mechanical (something is frozen or stuck)

MikeM. said:

Is your door seal freezing to the body?

As an avid skier I always wax around the door seal area and wipe down the rubber seals with a silicone product or dielectric grease. Dive shops have a silicone grease that works well on rubber seals. A little bit goes a long ways.

Click to expand...

I might have to try that. What silicon product do you use? Of course I have a lot of dielectric grease so I could use that as well.

Kedis82ZE8 said:

I might have to try that. What silicon product do you use? Of course I have a lot of dielectric grease so I could use that as well.

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As far as I can tell, the silicone products are all the same. It's just a food grade silicone that is a soft solid at room temperature. SCUBA divers use it on their regulators and drysuits. It's quite expensive (perhaps $10 for 2 Oz.) but it lasts forever.

I wouldn't use regular dielectric grease because it's even more expensive and is difficult to apply sparingly enough that it won't attract dirt. I use a product by CRC that is diluted with a plastics friendly solvent (carrier) and comes in a spray can. I just spray it on a small cloth and polish the seals. It doesn't take much. It's almost unobtainable (never seen it in chain hardware stores) but Hardware Sales in Bellingham, WA has had it in stock every time I've looked over the last 10 or 11 years for around $12 in a large aerosol can. If you've never been to Hardware Sales, it's a must. A guy like you would love it. They have everything imaginable packed into narrow isles, fasteners galore, stuff for trailers, electrical, plumbing, protecting, tools galore, paints, etc. A real Mom and Pops hardware store.

Cool!!! Thanks for the info!!!

I'll have to check that store out next time I am up there.