2016 GT Break in period/gas mileage

Tkirwan

Member
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2016 Mazda CX-5 GT
I read somewhere that I should get the first oil changed at 1,500 miles, what are your thoughts? Also, does high octane gas change the MPG? In mixed driving I'm only getting @24mpg! However, my car only has 350 miles on it so far.
 
I read somewhere that I should get the first oil changed at 1,500 miles, what are your thoughts? Also, does high octane gas change the MPG? In mixed driving I'm only getting @24mpg! However, my car only has 350 miles on it so far.

Don't worry your mileage will get better as everything loosens up. A good thing to keep in mind is that some cars over-report mileage which not only makes your warranty expire too soon but will also make your trip computer report an unrealistically high MPG. I don't know if the 2014-2016 are any different but my 2013 UNDER reports mileage by 1%. So, my MPG is actually better than reported.

High octane fuel will return the same or slightly lower mpg. Don't waste your money because the CX-5 has no ability to 're-tune' for octane higher than specified. As to an early oil change, not recommended. No advantage. I wouldn't change it until 5-7000 unless operational conditions are extra harsh and even then I would wait until at least 4,000 miles.

Enjoy your new car and remember, high MPG comes from avoiding high cruising speeds and excessive brake use.
 
I agree with everything said by Mike except for the oil change. Engine break-in is when you see the most foreign particulate matter in the oil and filter because the engine is, well, breaking in. If you let it go a full mileage interval before changing it, the oil and filter will arguably be the dirtiest it will ever be. Reason is the newly machined and coated walls of the engine cylinders along with new piston rings means that the cylinder walls have too much material and the rings are big/tight and making a nice seal (this helps the motor keep high compression ratios). During break-in operation, the piston ring acts almost like an ice scraper on a wall of ice, slowly shaving off the engine cylinder's metallic coating on the cylinder's walls until it settles (i.e. just enough pressure to seal the cylinder, not too much where it keeps shaving off material). This is happening on a microscopic scale, dont mistake me thinking that there is LOADS of material coming off. And that is just in the engine cylinder walls, there are plenty of other moving parts in the motor which are also breaking in and not running at full efficiency yet. Keep in mind that this is a highly debated topic on all car forums and wars usually start over it!! But there is some science to doing an early oil + filter change.

If you are leasing the car than dont bother. However, if you bought the car to own it for many years than it is cheap insurance to do an early oil + filter change ($30?).

Background: built race cars while in college.
Disclaimer: I dont know everything (flame2)
 
The thought behind the 1,500 mile oils change actually makes sense to me. They said because it's a new engine, there will be wear in and therefor metal particles. Better to do an early oil change IMO then risk metal particles wearing things down. I'm a military aircraft mechanic, so it seems to make sense in my head, no sure if the reality is true or not.
 
You beat me to it Ryan, lol. I am actually eligible for a free car wash and oil change (Veterans Day), so I'll probably just have them do it then and again for free from the dealer at the scheduled 5,000 mark.
 
Read the owners manual under maintenance schedule that the engineers who designed the engine recommend rather than "What I read somewhere". Modern engines are built with closer tolerances and better metals/coatings than from the earlier days of engine building that generated a lot of shade tree mechanic lore.. The oil filter will catch metals of any size that do not sink to the bottom of the oil pan. Break in oils loaded at the factory have special additives to protect the engine during break=in and should remain for the break=in period. Recommended is 5000 - 7500 miles depending on driving conditions. Just my old engineering opinion/experience.
 
Modern engines are built with closer tolerances and better metals/coatings than from the earlier days of engine building that generated a lot of shade tree mechanic lore.. The oil filter will catch metals of any size that do not sink to the bottom of the oil pan.

Exactly! That's what the oil filter is for. There are plenty of small ICE's out there that don't even have an oil filter. Maybe a screen!


Break in oils loaded at the factory have special additives to protect the engine during break=in and should remain for the break=in period. Recommended is 5000 - 7500 miles depending on driving conditions. Just my old engineering opinion/experience.

I've heard of manufacturers using oil specifically tailored to break in (not super slippery) and while no one has shown me it's absolutely true for the CX-5, it's somewhere between possible and probable. My best guess is that you could actually do it a disservice by changing it early. Since I know that normally there is no harm in changing it on schedule, I do want to err on that side, especially since it costs no more (less actually).
 
Wow. Ok, what did I start, lol.
Sounds like my best bet is to wait until my dealer oil change at 5,000. Guess I'll just get my fianc his oil changed for free on Veterans Day.
 
I agree with GAXIBM and MikeM. on this one, but one additional thing to keep in mind. Be wary of "free" oil changes. What oil are they using? Mazda Moly? Probably not. Castrol? Maybe. Dealers choice? Probably. Since it's important enough to you to be here asking good questions its one more thing to think about.
 
Wow. I can honestly say, that's something that I've never even thought of! I had my last '07 VW GTI for 104,000 miles and never questioned what brand oil was going into it.
Is that something I can ask for/about at the dealer or other repair shops?
I'm ashamed to admit that I'm an aircraft mechanic and I never thought about this. :(
 
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Of course you can ask the dealer for/about it. Remember, you're the customer. The dealer might have different pricing for different options but it's ultimately up to you.

There are several discussions in the Engine & Transmission sub-forum that address the question of oil type. It's another can of worms, lol.
 
The break-in discussion has been beat to death on this site. If you feel you know better than Mazda engineering then change the oil early. I see no value in dumping good oil at 1,500 or even 2,000 miles when the factory suggests 5,000 miles or more. Ed
 
Wow. I can honestly say, that's something that I've never even thought of! I had my last '07 VW GTI for 104,000 miles and never questioned what brand oil was going into it.
Is that something I can ask for/about at the dealer or other repair shops?
I'm ashamed to admit that I'm an aircraft mechanic and I never thought about this. :(
Yeah, be careful of these "free" oil change offers from dealers! You had a VW and you should have heard the class action lawsuit for oil sludge issue on 1.8T/2.0T. It's actually not entirely VWoA's fault as many VW dealers were using cheaper and widely available 5W-30 conventional oil instead of recommended 5W-40 synthetic oil. Dino oil just got cooked too easily by extreme heat from turbo charger hence the oil sludge. My Mazda dealer uses an unknown brand of 0W-20 oil hence I declined the "free" oil change. But you can always request Mazda moly oil available at parts department and pay some extra.

I used to do the first oil change early too. But after reading many articles I changed my mind. Honda even specifically warns the owner not to change oil early for the first time in the owner's manual for break-in period. The reason is a special break-in oil is used from factory-fill.

I used to be getting VW all the time but our last Passat is a total disappointment! It burns a quart of oil per 800~1,000 miles since new. It has an Audi 2.8L V6 and I thought Audi should have better quality control than VW. A friend's son has a '13 Audi A6 and his dealer just told him his A6 needs a whole new 2.0T engine shipped directly from Germany! Luckily the engine replacement is under warranty!
 
Just talked to the dealership and was told my oil change would come out of a massive drum. He told me it was Mazda oil, but didn't offer to allow me to see the label, guess it might not really be full Mazda oil. I'm just going to buy the supplies and either do it myself, or take the oil to a garage I trust to do the oil change.
 
I've heard too many oil horror stories now to trust anyone. If they won't show me the bulk container, I'm doing my own oil changes.
 
Just talked to the dealership and was told my oil change would come out of a massive drum. He told me it was Mazda oil, but didn't offer to allow me to see the label, guess it might not really be full Mazda oil. I'm just going to buy the supplies and either do it myself, or take the oil to a garage I trust to do the oil change.
LOL... Mazda moly oil doesn't come with a drum. It's packaged in one-quart bottle. The cheapest source of getting Mazda moly oil is from our sponsor Med Center Mazda:

Mazda SKYACTIV TECHNOLOGY Oil Filter, Drain Plug Washer and 5 Quarts of Mazda 0w20 Moly Oil

They just had price increase from $39.32 to $44.55. Many people ordered three oil change kits for free shipping.
 
oil change

The break-in discussion has been beat to death on this site. If you feel you know better than Mazda engineering then change the oil early. I see no value in dumping good oil at 1,500 or even 2,000 miles when the factory suggests 5,000 miles or more. Ed

When I purchased my CX-5 the dealership told me an oil change was not need until approx 6 mos or 7500 miles. I believe the user manual actually has a higher interval listed of 12 mos or 10,000 miles. They also specifically told me that unlike cars of old an oil change after around 2000 miles was no longer needed.
 
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