The Ronin

bskatesto · Oct 20, 2015

Hallo!
Recently picked up a 02 P5 which will become my project / daily driven , upon receiving the car the included hid's didn't work - popped the hood to take a closer look and realized a few wires were molten / burnt thru .

Could this be malicious intent or just incorrect wiring? And is it okay to strip and fix this wires? .
Will be updating periodically! Got lots planned!
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

bskatesto · Oct 20, 2015

Opened up the ballast and its fully burnt inside .
Ordering fresh ones tonight - could this have been a result of faulty wiring or the fuse?

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

Maxx Mazda · Oct 20, 2015

Yes absolutely fix those before you burn your car to the ground! Whomever wired those originally did a complete hack job.

Valk · Oct 21, 2015

Take the opportunity to install a relay power supply to your new hids. Very simple and only uses factory wires for on signal.

bskatesto · Oct 30, 2015

Valk said:
Take the opportunity to install a relay power supply to your new hids. Very simple and only uses factory wires for on signal.

By relay power supply are you referring to the controller? One was already installed on this system

bskatesto · Oct 30, 2015

Stripped the rest of the old hids from the car today .
- both my factory plugs were covered in molten plastic or something

- there was a wire tied into my blinker :/ not sure why .

.
Super excited to redo this properly myself!
The engine bays also begging for a good cleaning

bskatesto · Oct 30, 2015

Grabbed a new right LCA .

704_mazdaguy · Oct 30, 2015

Yea toss those HIDs and get a better brand name set. Ive had a high quality set on my car for around 3 years now with no issue. No flickering or anything.
I got all my stuff from theretrofitsource

Valk · Nov 1, 2015

relay power supply means you run a fused wire directly from the battery to the ballast, and ground the ballast to the chassis. you use a relay to turn the power on via a oem headlight wire but your only using it as a signal for on-status. all the power to power the lights comes straight from the battery and doesn't use factory wires. costs like $10 and an hour of time or so. i installed all the wiring twice in case i wanted hid fogs.
ive had the same apexcone hids for years though using this method. dont crank the car with the lights on, this is what seems to kill ballasts with the current and voltage sag.

bulbs burn out but woopy, they $15/pair.

bskatesto · Nov 1, 2015

Valk said:
relay power supply means you run a fused wire directly from the battery to the ballast, and ground the ballast to the chassis. you use a relay to turn the power on via a oem headlight wire but your only using it as a signal for on-status. all the power to power the lights comes straight from the battery and doesn't use factory wires. costs like $10 and an hour of time or so. i installed all the wiring twice in case i wanted hid fogs.
ive had the same apexcone hids for years though using this method. dont crank the car with the lights on, this is what seems to kill ballasts with the current and voltage sag.

bulbs burn out but woopy, they $15/pair.

Thanks bud [emoji106] , ordered a relay supply as well .

bskatesto · Nov 4, 2015

How she sits currently

Side trims removed while I replace left wheel arch panel , bottom section is too rusted for clips

- Plans for Tokico blues
-SRI intake
-Brake discs have a bit of rust so will be replacing , thinking brake upgrades

- Will paint the stock rims while steelie snow tires are on .
- replacing left

Also plan to go flat white with black accents on the car

bskatesto · Nov 4, 2015

Will also tint windows 15 - 20 all around the back and 40- 50 in front + smoked lights

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

bskatesto · Nov 12, 2015

Smoked the headlights with vht and got halfway through installing the new hids before I had to head to work :'(

bskatesto · Nov 13, 2015

Turns out I'm having some issues and do would love to get some helpful input..

.
How she sits -

Now I've gotten all the wiring appropriately installed except my relay harness doesn't fit the stock headlight plug..

Is it fine for me to splice wires to make the connection..?
I went ahead to try and do so and there's a pretty loud buzzing sound coming from the controller while the lights are in on position .
There's no buzzing when there's no contact to the stock plug , the hids also do not turn on at all .

Thanks for any input!

bskatesto · Nov 13, 2015

Just went out to double check and its actually quite the opposite , the controller buzzes in the off position and remains silent when I try to turn the lights on

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

Maxx Mazda · Nov 13, 2015

You don't need the plug, you can remove the spades from the white plastic plug (depress the tabs they pull right out) and on your wires for your relay throw some male spade connectors on them to plug in. Better to solder and heat shrink but the spades will make it reversible should you so choose in the future.

bskatesto · Nov 14, 2015

Maxx Mazda said:
You don't need the plug, you can remove the spades from the white plastic plug (depress the tabs they pull right out) and on your wires for your relay throw some male spade connectors on them to plug in. Better to solder and heat shrink but the spades will make it reversible should you so choose in the future.

Thank you

bskatesto · Nov 14, 2015

I've done abit of reading up on the capacitor fix , tomorrow I will try flipping my balast polarities - if neither of them are coming on should I flip on both?
.
Also would anyone be able to explain to me how I would go about using another source as my trigger signal? If I tie into my ambers should I just ground the other wire?
Thanks guys!

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

TheSwapnessMonster · Nov 14, 2015

From the photos that you posted on the previous page, your ballasts and bulbs have the correct 9005 type connectors. Is that white plug part of the wiring on your car? that does not look right. Maybe the PO did some "custom" work. The Protege5 uses H7 wiring for the low headlights and H3 for the fogs. Highs are 9005 (source: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-21636.html).

bskatesto · Nov 14, 2015

gilella said:
From the photos that you posted on the previous page, your ballasts and bulbs have the correct 9005 type connectors. Is that white plug part of the wiring on your car? that does not look right. Maybe the PO did some "custom" work. The Protege5 uses H7 wiring for the low headlights and H3 for the fogs. Highs are 9005 (source: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-21636.html).

Thank you

.
I was treating the plug as an h7 and trying to connect both ends - causing the loud buzz.
I realized the wiring had markings of an h4 with stripes for high / low

Passenger side

I tried tying into the low signal and hids still don't come on , I've also tried tying into the amber signal the PO had used and still nothing

Ambers and highs work

Could it be my ballasts just aren't grounded properly?

The Ronin

Member

Member

Resident Asshole

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Resident Asshole

Member

Member

Member

Member

Similar threads