would like a quieter ride

Don.Eich

Member
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2015 CX 5 GT
trying to get a quieter ride anyone used spray in bed liner in wheel well or trunk area and did it help
 
You'd be better off deploying Dynamat https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) strategically throughout the interior of the cabin than gunking up the underside with a product that isn't intended for sound deadening. BTW, the felt rear fender liners are made of that material to deaden noise from rocks and other debris.
 
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+1 dynamat. Installed dynamat extreme door kits in my doors when I added infinity xreference speakers. Was originally to have more bass from the speakers, but for sure made the ride quiet especially just in city driving.
 
The dynamat production just an adhesive backed sheet of sound deadening material. There are other manufactures of similar products out there but I can't say how well any of them work. I've also used foil backed ashaplt roofing tape for sound deadening. Granted it's not as thick as dynamat but it's way cheaper.

And depending on where you plan on installing the product and your skill level with tools determines if it's a diy or not. If all you can do is remove the spare and stick away then easy diy. If you are comfortable removing door panels and interior panels, diy, if not then maybe have a pro do it
 
decibels are logarithmic, so it's a pretty good drop. Also, keep in mind that different tones / frequencies of sound can be more irritating to the human ear than others.
 
trying to get a quieter ride anyone used spray in bed liner in wheel well or trunk area and did it help
I recently saw on one of those car repair shows applying spray on insulation behind the panels. Seems a bit more messy, but far superior coverage... Anyone have tried this? Any feedback regarding results?
 
I did some insulation work on my 67 PU with the following:

This stuff is a pretty good spray on... really good for keeping heat out.
http://www.lizardskin.com/

Also add something similar to this from "fatman"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14600?seid=srese1&gclid=CK6o8M2ywMcCFQoPaQodHhEOxw

And then some 1/4in dense rubber matting (can't seem to find it) and finally the carpet. Helped a lot for road noise but I really need to insulate the roof and pillars too (just steel).

Anway, the first two over the floor and up the firewall would probably help a lot. But it would be a lot of work and not sure if you would think it was worth all the effort...especially when you can just turn up the radio;)
 
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I did some insulation work on my 67 PU with the following:

This stuff is a pretty good spray on... really good for keeping heat out.
http://www.lizardskin.com/

Also add something similar to this from "fatman"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14600?seid=srese1&gclid=CK6o8M2ywMcCFQoPaQodHhEOxw

And then some 1/4in dense rubber matting (can't seem to find it) and finally the carpet. Helped a lot for road noise but I really need to insulate the roof and pillars too (just steel).

Anway, the first two over the floor and up the firewall would probably help a lot. But it would be a lot of work and not sure if you would think it was worth all the effort...especially when you can just turn up the radio;)

While the wife was in the bank, I turned up the Bose stereo to see how the sound was with the windows up. Cranky, old security guard came out and told me to turn it down. I think he heard it when both doors into the bank were open. When I got home, cranked it up again and walked around it with the doors closed and, damn, if the sound level wasn't pretty loud. Don't know if my BMW isn't as loud or has better insulation, but I've never seem to notice sound escaping like that before.

tl;dr Seems to be fairly thin panels that allow sound to travel both ways.
 
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While the wife was in the bank, I turned up the Bose stereo to see how the sound was with the windows up. Cranky, old security guard came out and told me to turn it down. I think he heard it when both doors were open. When I got home, cranked it up again and walked around it with the doors closed and, damn, if the sound level wasn't pretty loud. Don't know if my BMW isn't as loud or has better insulation, but I've never seem to notice sound escaping like that before.

tl;dr Seems to be fairly thin panels that allow sound to travel both ways.
My wife's BMW 3x definitely has better insulation/sound deadening components. This is one area I'm sure where cost cutting was used. I'm most interested to deaden sound coming from roof due to my (non-OEM) cross bars.
 
I'm most interested to deaden sound coming from roof due to my (non-OEM) cross bars.

Cross bars can make a lot of noise at higher speeds. Have you considered just removing them if you don't have a load on your roof?
 
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Cross bars can make a lit of noise at higher speeds. Have you considered just removing them if you don't have a load on your roof?
Yeah, just lazy... am going to try sliding both cross rails to rear, see if noise goes down enough or at all; saw another SUV with this and thought it was a good idea.
 
The CX5 has the highest decibels in the under 500 hrz range as I found out with a decent sound meter a friend let me use. I used Second Skin http://store.secondskinaudio.com/damplifier/ in mine and installed it from the back of the front seats to the trunk lid and in the doors. It made a noticeable difference and lowered the DB by 3.

Best way to lower noise though is with quieter tires because that is where a lot of the noise originates.
 
What would be the pros & cons to replacing all of the OEM glass with laminated glass? Would this reduce my risk of going deaf while driving my CX-5? It's very dangerous to wear ear plugs while driving and I am looking for safer alternatives.
 
What would be the pros & cons to replacing all of the OEM glass with laminated glass?

All cars come from the factory with laminated glass. This is required to meet safety standards.

Would this reduce my risk of going deaf while driving my CX-5? It's very dangerous to wear ear plugs while driving and I am looking for safer alternatives.

There is no risk of hearing loss from driving a CX-5. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) sets safe sound exposure levels. The safe limit is expressed as an exposure level expressed as a combination of exposure level (volume) and time (minutes/hours of exposure). Even driving 16 hours/day, the cabin noise level would need to exceed 82 dBA to threaten hearing loss. If the criteria is 8 hours, the acceptable noise level rises to 85 dBA. All convertibles with the windows rolled down exceed these limits and could cause hearing loss with extended driving. However, the interior sound levels inside a CX-5 with the windows rolled up are far below the safety thresholds, even when the car is under maximum acceleration.

Just keep your windows closed when traveling at highway speeds and the stereo at a reasonable volume and you have nothing to worry about.
 
What would be the pros & cons to replacing all of the OEM glass with laminated glass? Would this reduce my risk of going deaf while driving my CX-5? It's very dangerous to wear ear plugs while driving and I am looking for safer alternatives.

Are you serious? I really can't tell.
 
All cars come from the factory with laminated glass. This is required to meet safety standards.
Only about 20% of new cars currently are equipped with laminated side or rear glass. CX-5 is not in that elite group. Check the codes (AS1, AS2 or AS3) on the corner of each panel and you'll find that everything but the windshield is tempered safety glass.
 

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