Mazda 5 2010 - Front Brake pads and discs replacement

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Mazda 5
Hi,
I am new to this forum . I need to replace my Front brake pads and rotors on my Mazda 5 2.0 Petrol 2010 (TS2 Furano) . As i have never attempted this before any advise and links would be helpful.

I am looking specifiaclly for the exact torque settings that need to be applied to the Caliper bracket bolts, Caliper bolts and the Wheel Nuts.

Thanks in advance
Mike
 
This is for the US spec Mazda5 2010

Wheel torque is around 85 ft lb

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Thank you- please clarify

Thanks dpham00

This is my first post in this forum and your response has been great.

The instructions and pictures are very helpful.Could you confirm if i have read the torques correctly from the picture supplied
caliper bolt torque between (19-22) ft lb
mounting bracket bolt ( 60.5 - 75.1) ft lb

Disc pads installation note does not mention about the brake lubricant, Do you advise brake lubricant be applied at the back of the pads , on caliper bolt pins?

Do i skip the step to remove brake hose , if i do not have to add the brake fluid

Thanks Again
Mikehere
 
Torque specs are correct. On the back of the pads I use the orange brake quiet goop. You can use brake grease on the caliper pins if desired.

Not sure about the brake hose, I haven't replaced the caliper on this car

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I will be carrying out this work tomorrow will update the post afterwards.

Your help here is much appreciated, I feel a lot more confident in doing this task myself now
 
Brake discs Stuck

Followed the instructions and had no issues at any of the above steps until i got to step 10 to remove the brake discs. The discs are stuck and would not budge..tried the hammer , also tried the method found on youtube to use nut and bolt through Caliper bracket anchor points.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs


The disc wont move, the threads snapped on the M10 bolts used to lever the disc by applying pressure an i had to cut this bolts out. My car is still on the axle stands in the driveway


Has anyone experienced such stubborn brake discs? Any Suggestions advise would be helpful..
 
First double check there are no screws holding the disc to the hub. US 5's don't have them but double check anyway. If there are no screws, then biggest hammer you got against the face of the rotor at the outermost edge working around the circumference to break it free. They take some work to get them off because of rust build up around the inside of the rotor and outside edge of the hub. Good gloves, strong hits and big hammer. Sorry there's not a better way.
 
I must agree a big hammer is the best way. I was watching my front rotors being changed. The guy was really wacking away at it. One rotor finally came off but not after the disk has started to separate from the hub portion.
 
I must agree a big hammer is the best way. I was watching my front rotors being changed. The guy was really wacking away at it. One rotor finally came off but not after the disk has started to separate from the hub portion.
I've had them completely separate. Then you beat off the disc from the hat then beat the hat off from the backside. It sucks when that happens. I'm reluctant to try heat because of the proximity to the wheel bearing. I usually try to soak them from the backside with PB Blaster or even better JB-80 for as long as I can before attempting removal.
 
Beg, borrow, steal the biggest BFH you can get your hands on and ear plugs (that metal to metal ting is at a super high frequency). I would suggest picking one spot on the leading edge and keep hitting until it breaks free. After you notice it is loose, then hit it around, then finally hit it from the back as the last step to get it off. Double check the ears of the knuckle to make sure they are not bent from trying the nut n bolt trick. One member had such a bad experience (it bent th email ears, needing a new knuckle), he gave up on the car (traded it in).
 
Funny, I have never seen anyone disconnect the caliper from the brake line. I was taught to get zip ties or fashion wire hangers and hang the calipers off the springs so they are out of the way and don't cause hanging stress on the rubber brake lines.
 
The discs came out eventually only after broken into pieces at a local garage. Installed the new discs only to find the Caliper carrier on the front drivers side is slightly bent and touching the new rotor on the outer edge. This will have to be replaced. perhap this was causing light metal contact noise when i used reverse my car in the driveway every morning, now with full thickness rotor its grinding heavily againts the rotors outer edge.

Has anyone come across the issue of bent caliper bracket , what could have caused this to happen?
 
The discs came out eventually only after broken into pieces at a local garage. Installed the new discs only to find the Caliper carrier on the front drivers side is slightly bent and touching the new rotor on the outer edge. This will have to be replaced. perhap this was causing light metal contact noise when i used reverse my car in the driveway every morning, now with full thickness rotor its grinding heavily againts the rotors outer edge.

Has anyone come across the issue of bent caliper bracket , what could have caused this to happen?
Read post #10. YOU broke it when you tried post #6. Becareful of what you see on youtube.
 
Are you sure it's the caliper carrier bent and not the mounting ears on the spindle? Those may have bent when you tried the bolt method to try to loosen the rotor. I'd double check that.
 
Replaced Caliper Carrier and the probelem still persists. It can be the mounting ears on Steering knuckle/Spindle. There is nothing obvious to suggest the ears are bent. is there a technique to check and rule out if this is the case.

Should I be inspecting anything else? before i spend money on more parts and fixes.

Thanks in advance Guys
 
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