End Of Month Negotiating

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Knightro904

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When people refer to buying a car towards the end of the month, are they talking about the last day or two? The last week? At what point do dealers start feeling the pressure to meet their quotas and thus are willing to make a better deal?
 
Usually the last few days. But do yourself a favor and keep you sanity: email their "internet sales" and go that route. It's SO much easier. Might not get EVERY LAST dollar off, but you will save so much more time, unless you like the sales process (haggling). FWIW - here in Houston, they are not really moving that much on price. What's happening is, they might give you invoice, but there are forced options on the car where they make up the difference. One dealership was going to offer me $27,xxx on a 2015 FWD GT w/Tech, but they have other stuff on there that makes it about the same as if you bought at full MSRP.
 
I bought mine on the last day of January, the best day of the year since that is the slowest sales month. The later the better, just make sure you have enough time to get the financing approved if you are using your bank. If that particular dealer has already met his sales quota, he may not budge, so have a back dealer who may not have met his quota.
 
Right now Mazda has a friends and family thing going on. I think it has to be corporate workers. But they input you into the system and you'll receive an email with an E-plan. It gets you 4% below invoice. Which saved me 100$ off of hard bargaining. I've been searching Singh Monday which is not long. But I've emailed back and forth a good 15 emails per local dealer (4). And the best deal I got for the pearl touring was 26685. Cali tax is 8%. I'll look at the paperwork shortly and update. I bought last night =). This way I don't get hassled. Internet sales is the nest way. Don't even talk to a sales rep. I went in to meet the internet sakes Thursday and was ready to buy. Ends up they sold my color. Sales rep tried to hustle me into depositing or else they won't order the car. Started talking to me like I was dumb. So I walked out when he went to talk to his manager. He chases after me and I ignore him and drive off. Calls me right away then all the sudden he's all nice. The other internet sakes manager emails me the next day so I complained and told her I'm probably not returning from the bad experience. She tells me 26900 out the door with rood rack, cargo tray, and rood rails. Which I think is pretty good. Just make sure you shop around by email and don't be scared to tell them or even lie how much the next dealer is beating them by. But don't tel them what you were quoted on the first time contacting. Then they'll only beat it by $50 or so.
 
Most important thing... be willing to walk away from any offer you don't like. Make them play on your terms.
 
Get quotes from a couple of dealers and use the lowest quote, then use that when buying from another dealer. Do all this via Email.
You just step in the dealership, to pick up your car and do the paperwork.
If they try to bump up the price, because the car has some options installed, then tell them that you don't want them.
Be ready to walk away, most likely they will tell you to come back.
 
I want to reinforce what shingles is saying here: Negotiate on the internet, close in person. it's the only sane way to buy a car.

I did mine mostly on the phone and by the time I was walking in, I had all my core costs worked out. So the closing experience was straightforward and hassle free. I think the internet sales guy that worked with me treated it like a routine paperwork matter and less of a sales issue. Very businesslike and respectable.

My biggest mistake was not contacting ALL of the dealers in the area. The one dealer I didn't contact didn't get a chance. When a friend went to buy a CX-5 a few months later, I coached him on telephone only negotiations and he got a lower price with accessories thrown in.. from the dealer I ignored.

But again the most important thing is that if you're not on site the dealer has nearly zero leverage on you. It forces them to work on the details to get you in and close a sale. If you're there, it signals to them that you want a car bad enough to show up and they have a chance at convincing you to buy a deal that favors them more than you.

shingles said:
Usually the last few days. But do yourself a favor and keep you sanity: email their "internet sales" and go that route. It's SO much easier. Might not get EVERY LAST dollar off, but you will save so much more time, unless you like the sales process (haggling). FWIW - here in Houston, they are not really moving that much on price. What's happening is, they might give you invoice, but there are forced options on the car where they make up the difference. One dealership was going to offer me $27,xxx on a 2015 FWD GT w/Tech, but they have other stuff on there that makes it about the same as if you bought at full MSRP.
Click to expand...
 
maxwax said:
I want to reinforce what shingles is saying here: Negotiate on the internet, close in person. it's the only sane way to buy a car.
Click to expand...

I agree completely. I've previously always played the "let's make a deal" game in the dealership and generally hated the experience. For my recent CX-5 purchase, I did all my research and knew exactly what I wanted and how much I was willing to pay. I contacted the local dealership's internet sales manager the last week of March and made an appointment to test drive the CX-5 model that I wanted. He made no attempt to pressure me into a sale at that time. After test driving a comparable CRV and deciding I preferred the CX-5, I made him an out the door cost offer via email for the specific model/color that I wanted (which was on the lot). I thought my offer was on the low side and expected him to counteroffer, but he quickly accepted it. When I showed up at the dealership later that day to finalize the deal, I kept expecting some hidden cost to be added on, but everything went as agreed to. The finance guy did try his best to get me to purchase one of the extended warranties and only got slightly bothered when I declined. It was the best car buying experience I've had and the only way I'll do it from now on.
 
^^^ My experience exactly, right down to the slightly irritated finance guy ("I don't understand why you don't want these great offers, this benefits you!") LOL
 
addabox said:
^^^ My experience exactly, right down to the slightly irritated finance guy ("I don't understand why you don't want these great offers, this benefits you!") LOL
Click to expand...

And don't trust the payment the finance guy calculates on finance contract. Once bought a car I had calculated payments to be $230/mth after trade-in + down payment (with PC program). The finance contract put in front of me said $280/mth. I asked why it was $60 higher and he gave lame excuse that is was life insurance that would pay off car if I died. It was no where in contract. Told them if they couldn't rewrite it for $230 I'd go to my bank. He rewrote it for $230. Can't trust anybody when it comes to money.
 
Last edited:
L7D4R said:
Most important thing... be willing to walk away from any offer you don't like. Make them play on your terms.
Click to expand...

What he said, be ready to walk away, don't let them intimidate you. Chances are you won't make it all the way back to your car. And, yes, don't trust their initial numbers. Make sure they jive with the math as you understand it should be.
 
Started looking at the car December 2013 but didn't commit to anything. Went in every month to take a quick look and checked the offers for the month. Dealer salesman called me when April hit to tell me that there was now 0% financing for that month. That's what I was waiting for and came in and closed a deal. Only got $600 discount on MSRP but they gave me a good price on my trade-in plus the savings with the 0% financing and I was happy.
 
I plan to do everything online. I just wasn't sure if the end of the month was literally the last day or more the last week or so. I plan on contacting every dealership within a couple hours drive. I don't mind driving somewhere if it means saving a lot of $. We are still trying to decide what vehicle or vehicles we are going to target though. The CX-5 is definitely on the short list.
 
L7D4R said:
Most important thing... be willing to walk away from any offer you don't like. Make them play on your terms.
Click to expand...

Yeah, thats my motto. I'm also still driving my old vehicle with 173,000 miles on it because I'm stubborn.
Actually the last time I walked away from a deal it was over the dealer adding fog lights (cash sale $25K). They balked and I walked. They called back the next day after changing their mind, but the moment was lost. No big deal, it was a Forester and I don't have to deal with the oil consumption problems. I will definitely buy when the time is right and the vehicle is what I want.
 
How do you guys negotiate the trade-in value over email?
Until recently, we used to sell our old vehicle private party after getting the new vehicle. If the vehicle is new, then pricing is not very complicated. However, when used, don't they would want to see and inspect the vehicle to be able to give a trade-in offer?
 
Out of the 4 dealerships I talked to, one of them offered online trade in value quotes. After I got that quote I asked if the other dealers would be able to beat it given the car is as I said.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ALafya said:
How do you guys negotiate the trade-in value over email?
Until recently, we used to sell our old vehicle private party after getting the new vehicle. If the vehicle is new, then pricing is not very complicated. However, when used, don't they would want to see and inspect the vehicle to be able to give a trade-in offer?
Click to expand...

They'll give you a low-ball number without seeing it. If you have a good trade, they'll have to see it first before they commit to a higher trade-in. But, I used Kelly Blue Book to have an idea what my trade was worth, and TrueCar.com for the price I should pay for the new one.
 
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