Thule AeroBlade Racks for the CX-5

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dawhoo

Member
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CX 5 Touring
OK, I can confirm, the Thule kits that works with the CX-5 and doesn't connect on the rails, but the fixed mounting points that are used for the factory rails. You will have to drill through the gutter guards. If you have the existing rails, you will either want a different setup or get the replacement gutter guards to fill in the gaps from the factory rails.

I didn't have factory rails, so here's what I used.

Here's what I used:
Thule Rapid Podium Foot Pack 460R
Thule AeroBlade Load Bar Pair ARB53
Thule Fit Kit KIT3069

Thule list is $454.85

If you're interested and can wait, we are an authorized Thule reseller. I can get this setup for about 18-20% off MSRP and that should be before shipping (continental US should be between $17 and $28 FedEx) for you guys if you're interested. But it will take 2-3 weeks after payment to get them.

The AeroBlade rails are a lot quieter and wider than the old load bars. Link to AeroBlade

The 460R feet are made to work with the AeroBlade bars. Link to 460R Feet

The 3069 Fit kit for fixed point mounts. Link to Fit Kit 3069

If there's interest, let me know and I'll post a link on our site for you guys. And it would have to be the whole setup, not just pieces - sorry.
 
Does this fit kit work with the US version of the CX-5? I can't find it on the US site with your link, but it comes up on the Australian site -http://www.thule.com.au/FITTING_GUIDE/3069_506-3069-03.pdf.

I'd really like to get racks that mount to the fixedpoints for wider spacing, not gutter or rail mounted.
 
I have the US version. The problem with the US model is you have to drill a hole in the gutter guard, because the fixed points don't have the access holes like the Mazda 3 does. I pried the gutter guard up from the inside to the outside - you'll figure out what I mean once you start. Before I took it off, I marked the location of the fix points. There are two fix points in the front and two in the rear. For the rear, you the one closer to the front of the car. For the rear, use the point closer to the back of the car.

Here's a close up of how the 3069 with the 460R feet look and you can see, they fit very well.

This is the front 460R foot with the 3069 Fit Kit
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This is the rear with the 460R foot and the 3069 Fit Kit
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I'm still waiting on my ARB53, but I did have some ARB47s from my Mazda 3. Some people may like the less wide look more, but I'm short and need that extra 6 inches of overhang racks so I can get my boards on the car easily.


47" wide AeroBlades back view
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47" wide AeroBlades off angle view
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photo 1.JPGphoto 2.JPG
 
Two things: what's the wind noise/MPG hit like with those bars? And, do you have a wider picture of the car with the bars installed, to get an idea of the all over look/relationship of the bars?

Also, I don't understand why, since these obviously fit, Thule doesn't list them as an option on their website-- for aero bars they only recommend the door grab style. Seems like they're needlessly leaving possible customers to look elsewhere. I had actually emailed Whisbar (Yakima owned, now) about whether or not they intended to make anything that fits the CX-5, and they straight up said no. And yet I'm sure they have something that fits as well as the Thule fits, just listed for another car. Makes no sense.
 
Noise isn't bad at all, but I have the radio on all the time and rarely drive over 60mph. They seem to be the loudest at about 45 and then get quieter around 50. You will hear them, but the AeroBlade is so much quieter than the square Thule load bars or the Yak rounds.

Here's a side view, is this the view you're talking about?
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photo.JPG
 
addabox said:
I don't understand why, since these obviously fit, Thule doesn't list them as an option on their website-- for aero bars they only recommend the door grab style. Seems like they're needlessly leaving possible customers to look elsewhere.
Click to expand...

The main reason, Thule doesn't want to be liable for someone ripping off their gutter guard and drilling holes. Obviously, the people reading this forum are adept at wielding a drill and aren't afraid of a few minor modifications. But if those directions were in the Thule booklet, they would probably be sued for new paint jobs, broken gutter covers, and likely someone drilling a hole in their had, because, let's face it, there are a lot of idiots out there.

I had a girlfriend who had nerve damaged in her hand, because she was trying to cut a frozen roll in her hand. You guessed it, she was cutting into the palm of her hand.
 
Perfect! Thanks for the info and pictures. This is exactly what I was looking for. Drilling through the gutter guard is no problem at all. I've the the exact same CX-5 as you, so it's awesome to see how the setup will look. Thanks a ton for the info.
 
That's just what I was looking for, thanks so much. I've been casting about for a solution that would put the bars more or less level with each other. Anything using the factory rails puts a pronounce upward slant on any load, due to the limited range of fore and aft adjustment. I had worked out that the Yakima feet (which are listed for the CX-5, BTW) could be positioned, just as you said, by using the front hole in back and vise versa in front. However, it didn't look like I had any options in an aero bar till you posted this. The one thing the Yakima has going for it is the quick-release crossbar setup, with plastic covers to go over the feet when the cross bars aren't installed. So you have little nubs on your car when you're not using the crossbars, but then again you have zero wind noise.

Not sure about the drilling into the gutter trim as a liability thing-- after all, installation of the factory rails requires you to actually cut chunks out of the trim (you could just drill for these as well, but that's Mazda's instructions).
 
Two fill ups and about a .8 mpg difference. Same route daily.

The sound isn't noticeable at 55mph. I do have a moonroof and if I open the slide, but not the sunroof, I can hear a high pitch whistle at 40+ mph. When the moonroof cover is closed I can hear anything.

Water on the bottom of the rack, even at 55mph doesn't blow off, which makes me think it's in the deflected windshield air zone.

My friend used a different fit kit that grabs the gutters and it's so loud, even at minimal speeds. He's getting the different fit kit now.

The 47" bars are growing on me. I can't help but wonder if the 47s are somehow quieter than the 53 might be. I haven't checked yet but I'm really curious to find out.
 
Wow les than a 1mpg loss? Consumer Reports sayw up to a 5 mpg loss on a Honda Accord...pretty good losses I guess considering...I would think on our cars the cross bars would be good for a 2-4mpg loss, they are essentially spoilers...spoilers=bad for mileage...
 
I'm now about 3 tanks into having the bars installed. Manual gas mileage calculation shows less than 1 mpg. I am calculating 0.3mpg difference since the racks. I always get gas at the same station, so it's not a fuel difference.

and if anyone is looking for Thule Aeroblades in black, rackoutfitters sells powder coated aeroblades in black - think I might have to get me some...

http://www.rackoutfitters.com/thule-arb47bsg-black-aeroblade-47-inch-load-bars-set-of-2/
 
Hi, we are getting ready to purchase a CX 5 in the next week or so. I'm having a bit of trouble deciphering the talk here. Is it better to have roof rails and crossbars installed by Mazda or is it best to do what dawhoo is talking about. We would be using the roof rack to install a cargo box sometimes. Thanks for the advice.
 
anniebp said:
Hi, we are getting ready to purchase a CX 5 in the next week or so. I'm having a bit of trouble deciphering the talk here. Is it better to have roof rails and crossbars installed by Mazda or is it best to do what dawhoo is talking about. We would be using the roof rack to install a cargo box sometimes. Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

It's really a matter of taste, IMO. I don't like the factory roof rails look, at least on my white CX5. And I've used the Aeroblades since they've come out.

Factory advantage: you can adjust the width of the cross bars, which may come in handy at some point.

Thule advantage: they're tough as nails and last for years and have a lot of special made attachments.

Costs would be fairly similar for the full factory vs. Thule setup.

Both will have pluses and minuses and depending on what you want to do or the amount of versatility, one of the systems will be a better fit for you.

I just like the overall look better with the Thule setup and I use them for kayaks, plywood sheets, and surfboards.
 
Hi. I have the factory rails and use Thule Crossroads. The spacing between the bars is almost minimal. Looks like I can get an extra 6 inches by using the Podiums. I have too much invested in the square bars and accessories so will the 460's (non R)work as well?
 
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