Rear Sway bar and Endlink

Hi, I am about to purchase the Cocksport rear sway bar. I am lowered with H&R. I was considering that I may need adjustable endlinks (or at least be useful in keeping everything in good working order); after I install it. Am I correct that the end link should be as vertical as possible? E.g. would it sitting at an angle be a good reason to get an adjustable link? Experienced opinion would be appreciated thanks.

you should be fine, is a side to side stiffness, it is also adjustable RSB so you can actually put one side on full soft and other full stiff (med setting) to adjust torsion spring rate. put at full soft (outer holes) first then move up. I've put bigger sb on lowered cars all the time. if it bugs you you can buy some adjustable links, they are noisy though. Corks sway looks good also fits AWD, good stuff, they need update the website, I talked to them is actually 1"/25mm od, they listed 28.5, but either way it will help.

cocksport made me lol... Probably not going to get the same parts from that company




sorry... I am just too immature to not bring up that typo

speedbegone said:

cocksport made me lol... Probably not going to get the same parts from that company




sorry... I am just too immature to not bring up that typo

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Hey, they sell good parts for the man who wants maximum performance. Verified with many by the butt dyno as well.

Finally had the chance to install JBR rear sway bar on my car, I'm not sure if I'm the first one here, yes is a 2wd.

the bar is about the same weight as the stock 18mm.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...t-Release!!-2014-MAZDA-CX-5-2WD-Rear-Sway-Bar

now I can feel the back, the turns are quicker and long sweepers are much flatter, still on softest setting, def. a good upgrade

it takes about 2 hours, you do need to drop one side of the subframe, however it went up to the same location (I've marked it), so the alignment will be fine.

also the center of the bar is touching the wheel well insulation a little no noise, nothing is wearing off (after 50 miles or so, I'll keep an eye on it), Jamies car has a very small gap not touching, maybe just dep on each cars tolerance.

btw Jamie is very responsive and stand behind his products. I would buy their parts again....

also I didn't post any pics, is on their website, if you really want particular view I can take some when I'm under the car again.

Ideally, the sway bars should be parallel to the ground...

the main body of the bar is always kept parallel to the chassis, 2 bushings to subframe, the end links OEM ones are fixed, so no matter what the setup will be parallel. if you use adj. end links, you can put a slight torsion preload on the bar, still will not affect too much. the other thing they didn't list in the instruction is to have a load on the bar before tighten down the end links especially when using adj. end links, most other SB instruction mention that. ie wheels on the car, on a ramp then tighten everything down, not up in the air.

Good info

I just ordered a set of autoexe stabalizer links and the adjustable tie rod ends,

pt00323i said:

the main body of the bar is always kept parallel to the chassis, 2 bushings to subframe, the end links OEM ones are fixed, so no matter what the setup will be parallel. if you use adj. end links, you can put a slight torsion preload on the bar, still will not affect too much. the other thing they didn't list in the instruction is to have a load on the bar before tighten down the end links especially when using adj. end links, most other SB instruction mention that. ie wheels on the car, on a ramp then tighten everything down, not up in the air.

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