How to change oil and filter on a 2012+ MAZDA 5

Nice video, just one thing to add. You should consider putting a drain plug valve like the Fumoto valve. I have install one on my and the only messy part is taking the filter off. Also, on my old car some grease monkey cross threaded and overtightened the drain plug causing a crack on the aluminum pan.
 
Fumoto Valve is cool but cost $30, I don't really care for one although is would be easier.
It helps to put inward pressure when unscrewing the plug as that keeps oil on your hands to the minimum.

That is why I hand tighten the drain plug, some idiots use impact or power tools and make too much damage for two seconds savings.


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Fumoto Valve is cool but cost $30, I don't really care for one although is would be easier.
It helps to put inward pressure when unscrewing the plug as that keeps oil on your hands to the minimum.

That is why I hand tighten the drain plug, some idiots use impact or power tools and make too much damage for two seconds savings.


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if you are thinking of getting a Fumoto valve, only consider the one with the nipple extension. You can slip on a short 3/8 ID hose and drain it directly into your dump container. Traditionally you would have to drain into a catch pan, then transfer it to a dump bottle. Also, you can drain the oil when it is hot (wear gloves to flip valve), which is great bc there's a greater chance sediments have not settled and flow out; hot oil flows better. Finally, the most awesomest part is you don't need any tools to do an oil change so no tools to put away and little to no mess to clean up!!

Sorry if it sounds like I'm pitching them. It definitely is excess but sure makes life easier for the DIYer.
 
Finally, the most awesomest part is you don't need any tools to do an oil change so no tools to put away and little to no mess to clean up!!

Sorry if it sounds like I'm pitching them. It definitely is excess but sure makes life easier for the DIYer.

I'm not sure it would make one bit difference in a mes when it comes to Mazda 5, sure in my Saturn VUE with top mounted oil filter it would, but with the oil filter under the car, you still need a wide catch tray to catch all the oil that spills around the filter, it does not make a difference how much is inside the tray, 500 grams or 5 liters, the clean up time is still about the same, it perhaps saves draining from the tray to the bottle, but for $30 it is a waste of money in my books for Mazda. (IMHO of course) :)
Perhaps if something could be done about the oil filter......
 
I'm not sure it would make one bit difference in a mes when it comes to Mazda 5, sure in my Saturn VUE with top mounted oil filter it would, but with the oil filter under the car, you still need a wide catch tray to catch all the oil that spills around the filter, it does not make a difference how much is inside the tray, 500 grams or 5 liters, the clean up time is still about the same, it perhaps saves draining from the tray to the bottle, but for $30 it is a waste of money in my books for Mazda. (IMHO of course) :)
Perhaps if something could be done about the oil filter......
Very valid point but I will disagree and say 500 grams is way different than 5 liters as the former can be easily contained while the latter can be a real mess :). Not considering cost, would you agree the fumoto with the nipple extension is 100%, easy, and mess free compared to the traditional bolt and washer?

The other challenge is the oil filter, which contains about, well, a little over a filters worth of oil that still has to drain. Lucky the quantity is more on the side of 500 grams than 5 liters. Here’s what I do, only as reference, I’m not advocating it. I use two plastic bags (make sure they are not full of holes) and line the bottom with the free circular paper (Acme’s weekly ad). Cover the whole filter bottom-up and spin it off. I also line the underside of the filter with a double sheet of circular to catch drips. Paper is great absorbent for oil as it does not seep through easily. I cover the filter with the plastic bag and spin it off by hand (I do not gorilla tighten to begin with). Most of the oil go into the bag (just be careful not to turn the filter over –yet). You will still get the occasional drip, which is where the 500 grams is not the same as 5 liters come in to play b/c the newspaper liner can catch it. Assemble as usual. You do need to practice the first time b/c the filter tipped over and I was not ready for the ensuing spillage. Luckily, I did have a catch pan (and old newspaper underneath, as I use to do) at that time b/c I was changing to the fumoto valve.

In summary, the tools for me are 1) either ramps or hydraulic jack (be idea if there’s a ledge where you can drive up with driver side wheel so you can slide under :p), 2) ~4” of 3/8 ID hose (vinyl tubes are $.037/ft), 3) a recycling bottle (I buy 5qt bottles so I can reuse it or one gallon water bottle works too but the bottle becomes too hot to touch) 3) optional: thicker glove or shop towel (b/c the valve and oil filter is HOT if you want to do it while hot), 4) ~4 plastic bags to put the news paper in, and 5) some junk mail newspaper/circular. I love that there’s no need to wait for the oil to cool and I get it done in < 15 min at normal pace (pulling car in, clean up/trash, pulling out) without a drip on the floor and most importantly clean hands. I do need to disclose that my splash shield was not on so that would take a few mins to remove to access the filter (and a tool not mention above). The splash shield does not need to be removed to open/close the valve. The <’10 models have misaligned access hole for filter so you’d need to cut a proper sized hole (there’s a how-to here).

It is excess? Absolutely. Is it worth it? That depends on what it’s worth to the individual. Mazda made the oil filter pretty accessible. Worst case, say horizontal mount filter, I would use an oil filter relocation kits to make it more accessible. I am one who would pay a price (within reason) to make it easier/neater/faster b/c it really does pay off in the long run, IMHO.
 
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I use two plastic bags (make sure they are not full of holes) and line the bottom with the free circular paper (Acme’s weekly ad). Cover the whole filter bottom-up and spin it off. I also line the underside of the filter with a double sheet of circular to catch drips. Paper is great absorbent for oil as it does not sheep through easily. I cover the filter with the plastic bag and spin it off by hand (I do not gorilla tighten to begin with). Most of the oil go into the bag (just be careful not to turn the filter over –yet).

Interesting idea with the bag, I'll try it next time. I had to wait a bit for the oil to cool down as not to burn myself.
Would be cool if oil filters would be located on the top like some engines, makes the job so much easier.
The worst oil filter I've ever had was on the Acura Vigor, it was right between the engine and the exhaust manifold and you had to wait at least 2 hours before getting your hands in there.
Once I took it to Goodyear for the oil change and they refused as no mechanic wanted to stick their hand in there and the shop did not want to wait hours just to change oil.
 
What is the thread size and pitch so I can get me one of them there Fumoto valves? You two have sold me on the idea completely. That and a canister filter conversion so I can use K&N filters and I'll be one happy camper!
 
The worst oil filter I've ever had was on the Acura Vigor, it was right between the engine and the exhaust manifold and you had to wait at least 2 hours before getting your hands in there.
Once I took it to Goodyear for the oil change and they refused as no mechanic wanted to stick their hand in there and the shop did not want to wait hours just to change oil.

My old car was also a 93 Vigor. It was actually a nice car, good power and rides well. The problem was rust and the only way to take oil pan off was to also remove the differential. I ended up fixing the cracked drain plug with JB Weld, RTV silicon with the Fumoto valve, the fix lasted 3 years till I scrap the car.
 
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Interesting idea with the bag, I'll try it next time. I had to wait a bit for the oil to cool down as not to burn myself.
Would be cool if oil filters would be located on the top like some engines, makes the job so much easier.
The worst oil filter I've ever had was on the Acura Vigor, it was right between the engine and the exhaust manifold and you had to wait at least 2 hours before getting your hands in there.
Once I took it to Goodyear for the oil change and they refused as no mechanic wanted to stick their hand in there and the shop did not want to wait hours just to change oil.
If you plan to try using bags, I recommend you have a catch pan underneath when you try it the first time -just in case. It handles differently. Good luck.


Assuming it’s the right thread/pitch, nice find on the valve with integrated adapter! I’m using the F-106 and separate ADP-106 adapter.

Want an even easier to reach filter? Git-r-done. For those <'09.5, you need to convert to a canister filter base first.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123795270-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit
 
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