Please Help - Wanting to Switch to Mazda CX-5!!

Hello everyone - I'm new here, nice to "meet" you all!

I currently drive a 2007 Ford Escape XLT. It's a great car, but I'm ready to update and get something newer. I love SUVs/crossovers, so I limited my search to those and narrowed it down to the new Escape and the Mazda CX-5, but now I'm heavily leaning toward the Mazda thanks to the features that would cost literally thousands more on the Escape. I need some help though, and was hoping you guys could give some advice :)

1. Review after review says the only "miss" in the CX-5 is the engine. Coming from a v6, will I notice? I'm not big on accelerating or passing cars anyway, so I wonder if it would really affect me in my day to day commute?

2. Is it possible to get the Touring 2wd + Tech package WITHOUT getting the moon package with the Bose sound system? I definitely want the Touring due to the standard features (backup camera, blind spot monitor, etc) over the sport, but I don't think I can afford the Grand Touring. I'd like to add the tech package because everything in it is really useful (perimeter alarm for insurance, love xenon headlights, etc) but I don't really care for a moonroof or the Bose system. When I try to configure online, it makes me add the moonroof/bose package if I choose the tech package on the Touring.

3. Are people doing okay when it comes to haggling? My budget is slightly limited and the MSRP for what I want (Touring + tech and moonroof packages) comes out to $27,000 on Mazda.com. I would need to get this down to the $23-24K range to be able to afford it. Also, if they don't have what I want on the lot, are they usually willing to haggle for something they would have to order or get from another lot? I've looked at a few different Mazda dealerships and have yet to find a Touring + tech/moon. I see a lot of basic tourings with no extras, a few sports, and a few GTs.

4. Is it dumb to get 2WD in a snowy area? I don't think I can afford AWD, and I'm hoping new technology makes it just as safe.

5. Will the 2014 cx-5 coming out soon help me in negotiations? I plan on mentioning this since they are supposedly available in January as I feel they would want to get rid of the 2013's ASAP before the 2014 hits the lots. If not, would it just be better to wait until the 2014's come out to try and buy my 2013 so they are more willing to haggle? I'm worried doing this might mean a better price, but also a more limited 2013 selection. :/

Any other advice would be great! Hoping that haggling + my trade in can get me down to the $20-21K range on what I want and this is my first time buying a car! Thank you!
 
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Well first, if power is a worry, the 2014 is supposed to bring the 2.5l engine as well. But there will certainly be a price increase and it sounds like you are at your max already. I havent heard conclusively if the 2.0 will still be available in the touring and gt.

I traded my 2005 escape xlt for my cx-5 gt. the escape had 200 hp compared to the mazdas 155 but have pretty much the same 0-60 times. The cx-5 really likes to be in top gear and that takes some getting used to. But ultimately i think the usable power is similar. I find the escape powered through the deep snow better but i have never been close to being stuck in the mazda. The mazda also has traction control etc which may be hampering the feeling of powering through the snow. The escape handled like a boat and the cx5 handles like a tightly tuned compact.
 
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1. I was worried about the same thing before I test drove the CX5. Your Escape weighs over 4,000lbs the CX5 weighs a little over 3,000lbs so the two are almost exactly the same. You can also compare 0-60 times which are very close. I came from a Jeep with 210hp V6 and the only difference I found was the Jeep accelerated easier but not faster I.E. it normally shifted around 2,000-2,500 rpm. The CX5 shifts 2,500-3,000 rpm for me normal driving.

2. Get a hold of the dealer and ask, they are the only ones to really answer this. But I got the Bose/Moonroof package and the Bose is awesome. It was so so when I test drove it, but I am guessing it needed to be broken in, because now it is great.

3. There does not seem to be alot of mark up on these. Check out TrueCar.com to see what they are going for and the invoice prices. My sticker was $26,xxx and I got it for $25,312 plus TT&L. They were not going any lower and when I kept trying to get lower they brought out the invoice to show I was only $100 over their invoice. If you have to be $23-24k go for a base Touring, you should be able to get them down in the $24k's.

4. If you can afford to get a set of wheels with snow tires then sure, or if you only get a few days worth of snow then 2wd should be fine. If you get a lot of days with snow get AWD.

5. 2013 is not even here yet so they will not be pressured to move 13's yet. The 2014's will probably be more $$ so pull the trigger if you are decided on getting the CX5.

You should really go test drive one, then you can answer a lot of these questions yourself. Personally I always sleep on any decision like this for at least 24 hours. So go test drive the CX5 then the Escape back to back and think about it over night. Work out all the rest the next day or maybe two after.
 
Thanks for the responses so far. I'm not really interested in the cx-5 if I can't get the tech package...it's not possible to get the Touring + Tech + Moon for 24Kish? On Mazda.com the MSRP configured that way is $27,000, so that's only $3,000 off. That seems like too much?
 
Welcome icyblueyez! IMO $3,000 off would be too much especially with the demand for this car. I got 500.00 off and would be lucky if you were able to get $1,000 off (at least in my area). You can try your luck with negotiating a good trade in value sell the car yourself to make up for it.
 
Research via edmunds.com, kbb.com, etc - that would help you get a better idea for what the invoice is on these.

My advice - find one that's a year old and someone is already selling. You'll easily find a loaded all wheel drive for the price you're willing to pay (you'll need to accept the sunroof though, as it's part of the packages).
 
Thanks for the responses so far. I'm not really interested in the cx-5 if I can't get the tech package...it's not possible to get the Touring + Tech + Moon for 24Kish? On Mazda.com the MSRP configured that way is $27,000, so that's only $3,000 off. That seems like too much?

Anything is possible, I was just giving you the view from my experience. Dealers in your area might have something else up their sleeve. I did get $500 off for being military, I tried to get the owner loyalty but they wanted a current registration for proof.

I think you can add on things from the dealer either at time of purchase or later down the road. I know the Navi is around $400 and is plug and play, you may be able to purchase the other options you want to create your own tech package. Or you can go aftermarket.
 
Will I be able to get a better deal on the 2013 CX-5 if I wait until the 2014 is on lots?

I really want the Touring + Tech package...it's my perfect car at this point. But I don't think I can finance more than 22K so I'd need them to offer $5000 off as a combo of trade in/discount. I could do tax/fees out of pocket then.
 
I got a touring with some* tech but without the Bose and sunroof. I have the blind spot mirrors, touchscreen w/o navi, and DLR lights. I do not have the advanced keyless entry also so that could cut your price down too. Although my wife's Altima has it and I think it should be standard on any new vehicle. The base model charger has it.

Mine was already in the lot as it was and it was 25k out the door
 
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I got a touring with tech and without the Bose and sunroof. It was already in the lot and it was 25k out the door

Really?? I wonder why online it MAKES you get the moonroof if you select tech...but some in the lot have just tech. Anyone know?

25k out the door would be perfect :)

Also do dealerships usually haggle using the out the door cost? Does that mean tax and fees included? If I said I need it to be 22k total "out the door" they could work with that?

Also does it matter if I am not doing dealer financing? My local credit union is much cheaper in terms of APR
 
Bsm and touchscreen without navigation are standard on the touring. The tech package adds: xenon headlights, navigation, perimeter alarm, etc.
 
My 2009 ford escape was totaled by sandy and i just bought a 2013 mazda cx5 touring awd with moonroof. planning on adding factory nav. i love it.
 
4. Is it dumb to get 2WD in a snowy area? I don't think I can afford AWD, and I'm hoping new technology makes it just as safe.

Any other advice would be great! Hoping that haggling + my trade in can get me down to the $20-21K range on what I want and this is my first time buying a car! Thank you!

#4: I've driven in all kinds of extreme winter weather due to my addiction to snow sports and the fact that my favorite mountain has the all time official world record for amount of snowfall in a season and currently has a deeper base snowfall than any ski area in the world. I've driven FWD, RWD, 4x4 and AWD of many different configurations and the four most important things are tires, followed by tires, followed by tires and tires.

You do not need AWD to be safe in the snow/ice, you need snow tires. This is true no matter what your driving skill level is. An unskilled driver with snow tires in a FWD CX-5 will be less dangerous than the same driver in an AWD CX-5 and all season radials. No if's and's or but's. AWD is NOT a substitute for winter radials. In the winter you will often be on roads that are seemingly not to slippery in fast moving traffic. When you hit that extra slippery patch unexpectedly in a turn or during a braking manuever, AWD will help you little to none while winter tires could make all the difference in the world. Same with DSTC and modern ABS (both of which can apply brakes independently or in pairs to keep you slowing down as fast as possible while keeping the front of your car pointed frontwards). Even a skilled ice driver cannot apply the brakes on the left side of the car twice as hard as the brakes on the right side of the car.

While I haven't driven a FWD CX-5 in the snow, I believe it has the same stability control built into it as the AWD model (which I've already driven quite a bit in deep and sloppy snow and ice). These dynamic control systems are the second most important thing after snow tires for driving on roads with winter hazards. I am a skilled snow and ice driver and I would not buy a new car that wasn't offered with DSTC. I first used this type of system 13 years ago in a FWD Volvo. I was concerned the Mazda system would not be as good because Ford seems to have botched the dynamics of the DSTC system in my 2010 F-150 but the Mazda system is equal to the Volvo (maybe better, time will tell).

The main reason I went with the AWD version is because, when it's snowing 6" per hour and the parking lot is deeply rutted and often far from level, it opens up more parking opportunities. It's a convenience factor more than anything, less shoveling. I've come back to my car after a day skiing and had the snow almost covering the hood. Also because I can afford it.

If you can't, get the FWD, you will be fine. And you will save some on your fuel bill as well.

As to negotiating a lower price, most dealers are selling all the CX-5's they can get without resorting to steep mark-downs. In most areas you can get a nice little discount but generally not huge. Best advice, sell your used car on the open market and buy the CX-5 without dinking around with trade-in. Dealers make most of their profit on the sale of the trade-in.
 
Here's an article that I found about negotiating car prices...

http://www.negotiationdynamics.com/Newcar.asp

I've been using the (I+D+A-R) formula they explain in the article, and while I haven't completed the deal...I think that is in part because I want about $1500 more for my trade-in than they are willing to give (I have a lot of aftermarket additions that they are not willing to pay for). I am not in a rush, so I've listed my vehicle, and am willing to wait to get that amount.

One thing you should be aware of is that you should be negotiating the price of the vehicle and the price of your trade in separately. If you do not, they may "fudge the numbers" on you...dropping the price of the car by giving you less for your trade in, or vice versa.

Edmunds, KBB, NADA are all trusted sources for your invoice cost for the trim you are looking for. I found that 2 of them were the same and the 3rd was 1 dollar different for the Cx5 GT trim.

I found an article from 2011 that said that Mazda holdback was 1.5% ...which was the lowest in the industry, so you're not going to have much wiggle room there. There are no other rebates currently on the Cx5, and I haven't found any information on hidden rebates either.

The other key is that you need to start the negotiating process with your dealer at least a week before the end of the month, but don't close until the 30th or 31st. You've got a lot of advantages with it being December. Post Christmas is very slow from what I've read, and there are end of quarter and end of year goals that the dealerships are trying to hit.

Last thing, negotiate the "out the door" cost. Sometimes they'll stick you with doc fees, undercoating/paint protection, etc. Know what your tax & registration fees are...those are non-negotiable...but anything else is something you should be able to get them to waive....and be prepared to walk out if they do try to slip some silly costs in.

Even with all of that, you probably will only be able to get them to come down to the invoice cost, throw out the delivery charge, and that will be your final price...so you're saving maybe $1000-2000 less than the MSRP, depending on the trim. Mazda doesn't have a lot of cash back incentives like Ford/Dodge/Chevy...but the upside is that your car should hold it's off the lot value better than those brands.

Someone mentioned True Car as a good resource, and I agree. Check Intellichoice as well for cost of ownership explained.

Hope all of that helps!
 
Here's an article that I found about negotiating car prices...

http://www.negotiationdynamics.com/Newcar.asp

I've been using the (I+D+A-R) formula they explain in the article, and while I haven't completed the deal...I think that is in part because I want about $1500 more for my trade-in than they are willing to give (I have a lot of aftermarket additions that they are not willing to pay for). I am not in a rush, so I've listed my vehicle, and am willing to wait to get that amount.

One thing you should be aware of is that you should be negotiating the price of the vehicle and the price of your trade in separately. If you do not, they may "fudge the numbers" on you...dropping the price of the car by giving you less for your trade in, or vice versa.

Edmunds, KBB, NADA are all trusted sources for your invoice cost for the trim you are looking for. I found that 2 of them were the same and the 3rd was 1 dollar different for the Cx5 GT trim.

I found an article from 2011 that said that Mazda holdback was 1.5% ...which was the lowest in the industry, so you're not going to have much wiggle room there. There are no other rebates currently on the Cx5, and I haven't found any information on hidden rebates either.

The other key is that you need to start the negotiating process with your dealer at least a week before the end of the month, but don't close until the 30th or 31st. You've got a lot of advantages with it being December. Post Christmas is very slow from what I've read, and there are end of quarter and end of year goals that the dealerships are trying to hit.

Last thing, negotiate the "out the door" cost. Sometimes they'll stick you with doc fees, undercoating/paint protection, etc. Know what your tax & registration fees are...those are non-negotiable...but anything else is something you should be able to get them to waive....and be prepared to walk out if they do try to slip some silly costs in.

Even with all of that, you probably will only be able to get them to come down to the invoice cost, throw out the delivery charge, and that will be your final price...so you're saving maybe $1000-2000 less than the MSRP, depending on the trim. Mazda doesn't have a lot of cash back incentives like Ford/Dodge/Chevy...but the upside is that your car should hold it's off the lot value better than those brands.

Someone mentioned True Car as a good resource, and I agree. Check Intellichoice as well for cost of ownership explained.

Hope all of that helps!

Very helpful! Thank you so much!
 
I sent emails to several dealers in my area specifying the exact specs I wanted. Dealers were asked to submit bids via email by a specific date with an itemized break down of the out-the-door price. Dealers were also required to confirm availability of the vehicle. Detailed quote is here. All price negotiations were via email. Good luck!
 
I sent emails to several dealers in my area specifying the exact specs I wanted. Dealers were asked to submit bids via email by a specific date with an itemized break down of the out-the-door price. Dealers were also required to confirm availability of the vehicle. Detailed quote is here. All price negotiations were via email. Good luck!

Very good idea - how would I go about that? Could you PM me the email you sent to dealers if you still have it? Did you get the Tech and moon roof package on your touring for that price??
 
Just sent you a PM. I didn't get the tech package or moon roof as those packages were not worth it to me after reviewing the forum feedback.
 
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