How to jack up your CX-5
- Thread starter kampfire
- Start date
I got this idea from another forum: I use a good solid 'real' hockey puck with a notch cut down one of the flat sides. It fits over the pinch weld so the jack doesn't crush the pinch weld.
One of the specialized attachments would probably be better but my jack doesn't have an opening for one to fit.
Liability Disclaimer: You will likely end up dead and injured and annoyed if you follow my advice with anything dangerous like supporting a car....
this isn't my photo, but here's a photo of the idea (I cut a narrower notch in mine):
One of the specialized attachments would probably be better but my jack doesn't have an opening for one to fit.
Liability Disclaimer: You will likely end up dead and injured and annoyed if you follow my advice with anything dangerous like supporting a car....
this isn't my photo, but here's a photo of the idea (I cut a narrower notch in mine):
as long as your jack can take one. The jack shown in the picture doesn't have a hole in the center of the lifting surface. It is solid under the rubber pad that is there.
Can you provide a photo for the area your thinking of?
There should be visible jacking spots under the vehicle on or near the pinch welds near the tires at either end. I'd stay away from the engine area (i.e. oil pan), if you guys don't want to use the pinch welds, try under the control arms, near the tires.
Always use a jack stand with your jack.
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- Mazdaspeed6
Here is a photo of the hardened areas of the pinch welds which are made to jack up and support the car's weight.
I have circled the dimples which signify the jack spot. It is between these raised dimples that you want to place the jack or stand. There are four total, two front, two rear.
I have always just used a hardened 2X4 on pinch welds without issue. Yeah, maybe not the safest...
But I have had my CX-5 up in he air several times and I haven't had a problem damaging the pinches by dropping the car down on stands and resting the photographed jack zone on the stand pedestals. So meh...take it for it is worth.
I have circled the dimples which signify the jack spot. It is between these raised dimples that you want to place the jack or stand. There are four total, two front, two rear.
I have always just used a hardened 2X4 on pinch welds without issue. Yeah, maybe not the safest...
But I have had my CX-5 up in he air several times and I haven't had a problem damaging the pinches by dropping the car down on stands and resting the photographed jack zone on the stand pedestals. So meh...take it for it is worth.
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The frame rails underneath the middle of the car and the control arms are the safest bets in my opinion. I do recall a place that sold adaptors for jack stands that can fit into the pinch welds. Forgot the name of the site but a Google search should yield results.
GEARHEAD_ENG
Member
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- 2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring FWD
$22 on Amazon... I think I'm going to add this to my shopping cart. I usually jack most of my cars from the cross member but the pinch weld adapter would be safer and easier to access.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
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Where does everyone put their jack stands? I may try the spots in the picture but how do you put a stand there if you are also jacking it up there?
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- 23 CX-5 Premium
Years of working on my wife's Miata have shown me that there's really no more strength in the designated jacking portion of the pinchweld than anywhere else on it. I usually just jack the car up at the jack point and then place a jack stand right next to it on the pinchweld.
whoa now, Ive had 4 miatas and built one into a racecar and Miatas are very different from typical unibody cars. You can jack up a miata from any point along the bottom. You cant do that to most other cars, you will bend sheetmetal.
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- 23 CX-5 Premium
How is an MX-5 pinchweld any different from a CX-5 pinchweld or a pinchweld on any other car (Mazda?) for that matter?
I read through the thread, and also checked my under-body yesterday, and read the workshop manual. Still need help on where to lift on the rear.
So, here's an actual photo from my rear (AWD). Which place do you use to jack up?
Red or green or blue? I think it's the red part as it looks most thick, or at least it has some flat area. And seems like it fits the description of a "pinch-weld". (had to look up google picture for that type of weld)
So, here's an actual photo from my rear (AWD). Which place do you use to jack up?
Red or green or blue? I think it's the red part as it looks most thick, or at least it has some flat area. And seems like it fits the description of a "pinch-weld". (had to look up google picture for that type of weld)
Good god man, isn't that the rear diff? If you try to jack your car up there it could be a VERY expensive mistake.
Seriously, the manual CLEARLY shows on page 7-9 that the jack point is at the OUTSIDE of the car near the rear tire, NOT in the middle.
[EDIT] It looks like there is a household door in the background of your photo? The proper jack point looks like it is way out where the car outline meets that door.
Seriously, the manual CLEARLY shows on page 7-9 that the jack point is at the OUTSIDE of the car near the rear tire, NOT in the middle.
[EDIT] It looks like there is a household door in the background of your photo? The proper jack point looks like it is way out where the car outline meets that door.
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I would use the factory jack point when using the supplied jack should a roadside tire change ever be necessary. In my shop I use a floor jack on the protruding piece pictured in the photo (red circle I believe). I can change both rear wheels with one jack procedure. The rear differential is plenty well supported for this.
What are you talking about? That's what the workshop manual says, to jack up the rear differential. I just didn't know for sure which exact area it is because it's not flat when I creeped under.
See attached.
I have a low profile floor jack, so I was thinking of lifting the center, then placing two jack stands (a little bit front of the rear tires) on the two sides for support. Then lift the front center on the area specified in the workshop manual, and put two jack stands on front sides.
So I'll probably have to make some kind of an adapter or something for the red circled area. Or do I? Should I just use my floor jack to jack that up? It's so shiny, it looks like scratching it won't do any harm related to rust.
I have a cheap floor jack ($25) by the way.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-2-1-2-Ton-Low-Profile-Jack-Kit-HD00112/204835238?keyword=hd00112
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