protecting paint

edwardzik

Member
:
2013 cx5 6m/t
Welcome all,I`em new here but was reading your post almost everyday.
Can`t wait to pick up my new cx5 (sport with m/t ,red with beige interior),one more week I hope (still on a train from Vancouver to Toronto).
Have a question to you guys ,after you pick up your vehicles ,how did you take care of paint job?
Good wash and wax is enough or maybe some additional steps should be taken (clay bar)?
Also do not like the fact ,that blind spot monitoring is not available with 6 speed manual ,and 60/40 only instead of 40/20/40 on back seat
 
I just gave it a wash and a wax. There didnt seem to be anything to use the clay bar on. Was smooth as glass. I will likely do paint sealant in the fall.

Congrats on the new cx-5!
 
I always handwash and dry my cars, I hate going to the car wash coming out with a million tiny scratches. After washing and drying I use California Gold Spray Wax, must be used in a shady area and not in direct sunlight as it will streak. This thing lasts for months.
 
I did clay my car and there was not any noticeable dirt picked up. I applied Optimum Poli-Seal with PC and a finishing pad since there was no correction necessary.
 
I applied Optimum Opticoat to most of mine... but I admit to being in a bit of a rush and not really following directions "by the book". I was trying to get ready for a vacation and really had no time.... so it was a quickie job after work one evening, a couple days before leaving for Florida.

This is one of the nano-coating products on the market that claim to add an extra layer of protection, more like an added permanent clearcoat layer.... not just a sealant or wax that needs done every 6-12 months. I followed with a quick wax with colinite 845.... very easy to apply and wipe off by hand. I pick up my stuff from autogeeks.com
http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html?gclid=CPTDtJPQ6bACFQfrKgodXX5l3w

I'm also planning to add a clear bra, at least to the hood.... and maybe to the whole front bumper area. I have a kit already for the headlights, but haven't got it done yet.
 
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No need to clay a new car, in fact the dealer should deliver it to you in perfect condition. My dealer even waxed the car before I got there, but he knew I would be driving it from Orlando to Miami to take it home.
I'm saving up for the clear bra too. Unfortunately, I am going to end up spending bank, because I want to protect the front bumper, hood, AND roof as well: I go kayaking often and I know it only take a little salt & sand to scratch that paint.
 
I did Opti coat as well. took whole today to prep and apply it. You should clay bar your car prior to applying opti coat. it amazing how much the clay bar picks up that you cant see or feel.
 
No need to clay a new car, in fact the dealer should deliver it to you in perfect condition.

My dealer kept wanting me to bring ours back in so they could detail it. I wasn't going to let them near it. Most just add fine scratches or swirl marks or holograms with a dirty polisher wheel. I was at Carmax and every car they had on the lot had pretty little patterns on the hood that danced in the light as you walked by.

I put the Blackfire Wet ice over fire kit on mine.

These cars don't likely sit on the lot long enough to pick up contaminants in the paint but if they end up with rail dust on them then it is a very good idea to clay them. I'm not sure how much of the vehicle is covered while being transported. I doubt any dealer is going to clay the car as part of their prep. My CX5 didn't need clayed but my wifes 3 we got last fall did need it. It was a night and day difference on her car. If there is rail dust or other contaminants bonded into the paint and you just hit it with a polisher or a Dual Action polisher the pads will grab those particles and rub them around on the paint. Plus any metallic contamination bonded into the paint will not be good over time.

Fortunately neither of our cars spent long enough on the lot that they got to be subjected to multiple 'lot washes'. When they have the people come through with their pressure washers and just spray the cars off and then wipe them down to dry them. Notice that they skip the whole soap to lift and encapsulate the dirt part of the process, they just rub whatever the pressure washer didn't get off the car around on the paint.

When I got the survey from Mazda I did check off that the car was delivered in perfect condition since it was my decision to detail it myself. I figured that was only fair.
 
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I applied Optimum Opticoat to most of mine... but I admit to being in a bit of a rush and not really following directions "by the book". I was trying to get ready for a vacation and really had no time.... so it was a quickie job after work one evening, a couple days before leaving for Florida.

how did it turn out with the quickie job? I've done two cars with Opticoat and it wasn't too bad of a process but the one car I wasn't happy with the overall look of the shine so I removed it. Fortunately, it wasn't completely cured yet so it wasn't as awful to remove as if it had completely set. The prep is the killer with it though.
 
I'm also planning to add a clear bra, at least to the hood.... and maybe to the whole front bumper area. I have a kit already for the headlights, but haven't got it done yet.

Have you thought about using clear Plasti Dip instead of the clear bra?
 
Oh man - there are plenty of products that you can't go wrong on. P21S, Collinite, Klasse, Blackfire, Meguiars, and a few others. It's hard to not find something that's good. It just depends on what you want to do and how much time you want to spend on it. I went with Autoglym SRP followed by a coat of Klasse with my finisher as Autoglym HD Wax. I've decided that I'm going to go with a coat of Blackfire Wet Diamond with a coat of Meguiars Ultimate Wax. If I need to I'll use a polish first, but it's new. ;-)
 
Opti coat2.0 seemed to go on just fine, and looks good, feels good. I'm not sure about the streaks and high spots that are discussed on detail forums, because I haven't had any problems. It just makes me wonder if I'm putting on enough, but according to the directions, I should be fine there. No funky streaks or anything and the shine is good. I even did part of the windshield... and on our trip I wished I had done the whole w/s because the rain beaded up nice on the treated part, but my wife made me run the wipers because her side was blurry. LOL

I would do the clear bra on the roof, if using for bikes, kayaks, etc. Even if you find a cheaper product in bulk and do it yourself. You can probably do the roof for $150-200 if you are willing to give it a shot yourself. Just don't screw it up! :)

The plasitdip thing is interesting.... thought about doing that to the wheels just out of curiosity. But I don't think a black rubber front end is what I'm after. I would like to know how easy it comes off, and how durable it is.
 
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The plasitdip thing is interesting.... thought about doing that to the wheels just out of curiosity. But I don't think a black rubber front end is what I'm after. I would like to know how easy it comes off, and how durable it is.

You can get Plasti Dip in clear, not just black. I don't know what it looks like over paint, but over chrome, it looks like brushed aluminum.
 
wolfgang not the chef....

Have you thought about using clear Plasti Dip instead of the clear bra?

i would highly recommend you guys to try wolfgang deep gloss sealant products...its more expensive than any other products out there...but its the BEST results....anyway its just my suggestion...
 
autogeeks, autopia & detail image are a few places online where you can get a ton of info. you basically can't go wrong with products sold there such as wolfgangs, meguiars and the whole lot of products as mentioned above.

one of the first aftermarket purchases i did was aftermarket paint protection film(ppf). the oem nose mask is still unavailable and i wasn't keen on getting a clear bra, which is typically half of the hood up in front where a seam is noticeable and where wax can build up. instead, i opted for a full hood with the edges wrapped from a third party certified installer. no outright seams for my vehicle. :)

i chose ventureshield because it's supposed to be one of the clearest that doesn't get orange peel over a longer period of time compared to 3m and other products. from what i hear they used to have a lifetime warranty but after they were bought by 3m, it's now a five year one. standard 3m is great in scratch resistance -each has their advantages.

if anyone recommends using plexus, their info is out of date because it has been found to worsen the appearance of orange peel over time due to staining. but regular waxes and sealants are fine as long as they don't contain any petroleum distillates, other harsh ingredients or staining dyes. it's more noticeable on white colour.

while it's far more expensive to have a professional do it versus buying a roll of ppf yourself, what's great is that they have it pre-cut for the vehicle so that all the lines and edges match up neatly well. i haven't seen a pre-cut kit for consumers that covers an entire hood with edges wrapped or other components.

inodes has it made with a fully wrapped vehicle. but for us on a budget, it's nice to know that via a professional installer we can do a bit at a time. for those considering, i'd recommend getting the most crucial areas first. in my case it's the full hood and bumper areas. for others it might be the roof because of possible roof rack scratches or the result of parking under trees.

a few other things on my ppf research:
- the surface you apply the film must be clean in order for the film to adhere. the ideal time to apply it is when the car is brand new otherwise claying it is a good idea.
- as long as the products you use on your car doesn't have petroleum or other harsh ingredients or dyes/stains, it should be fine on the covered areas.
- it's possible to use a machine polisher to remove swirls on ppf but not recommended unless you know what you are doing... lowest setting w/ no pressure. for most people it's unnecessary.
- a clay bar is fine.
- a wax without dyes is fine.
- a sealant is recommended. i heard good things about optiseal on ppf.
- it's a good idea to find a good reputable installer.
- while it takes around 48 hours upon installation to cure, keep an eye on any air bubbles and adhesion of the ppf edges so if there are trouble spots you can notify them to have it corrected.

some pictures:
ry%3D480

note the seams. bumper (lower right), headlights covered, front hood edge, black front piece covered. you can ask the installer to cover that black piece.

ry%3D480

edges of the headlight & full hood covered. can't afford the full fenders yet but they get less of the brunt when driving.
 
Ditto with Gio26NJ - hand wash and dry only for me.

Everyone has their preferences and opinions regarding waxes and protectants. I personally really like 303 products and use 303 Aerospace Speed Detailer after a wash to provide some extra protection. NoSuchSol hit the nail on the head - there are plenty of great products out there, it just depends on what you want and how much time you want to spend. I believe that the little extra time you spend putting on a little extra protection after a wash could same some serious cleanup down the road.

Best of luck with the new ride!!
 
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