2010 CX-9 First oil change

pyroMark

Member
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2010 CX-9 GT AWD ; 2005 Mazda6s GT
Got a leftover 2010 CX-9 this spring and decided to do the first oil change at about 2000 miles.

As I've read on these forums it was the hardest filter removal I've ever done. Took me an hour to get it off. Broke my filter wrench, got a new one which still didn't do the trick. Finally got if off with a large pair of channel locks. The filter was pretty torn up by the time I got it off. The factory severely over tightened them. I put the new filter on hand tight as I always do.

Oil was fairly dirty for 2k miles, I wasn't sure what to expect, if there was any break in dirtiness in there.

I replaced with Formula Shell 5W-20 Synthetic, and a FRAM extended gaurd filter. Took about 5.5 Qts. My first time using synthetic. I'll likely use Mobil 1 next time - seems to be what most people use.

Oil sample:
2wcdx50.jpg


Check out the torn up OEM filter:
11h4aqx.jpg


When should I do the next change? Am I completely through break in and can go 5k? 7k?
 
No matter what kind of oil and filter you use, at a minimum I'd stick with Mazda's oil change interval in the owner's manual, at least until the warranty is out.
 
No matter what kind of oil and filter you use, at a minimum I'd stick with Mazda's oil change interval in the owner's manual, at least until the warranty is out.

Good point on the warranty. Do I need to keep receipts and records to maintain the warranty if I do the work myself?
 
if you happened to get into a situation where you needed to prove you did maintenance, then maybe. like if your engine seizes due to sludge or something. but they can't deny your warranty because you change the oil yourself.
 
FRAM = Bad.

Heres a quick run down of just brands, there are some brands that have nicer or cheaper filters.

Best filters: AC Delco, Baldwin, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N.

Medium: Napa, Wix, Purolator Pureone (best bang for buck usually), OEM

Crap filters: Fram, Bosch, Pennzoil & Quaker (made by Fram)


Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com if you want to know way to much about oil and filters. :)
 
Thanks for the advice - I've wondered about it. Unfortunately Walmart is too convenient. I'll have to stock up online. I use K&N on my ATVs and I know they're good.

Where's a good place to buy quality filters and oil for that matter. I guess getting the oil at the local walmart is fine - they have Mobil1 which I plan to use next time. Filters though - online?
 
amazon has some of the best prices for most filters actually and normally the cheapest air filters (k&n) as well, besides going the ebay route.

walmart does have some house brand called super tech that's supposed to be decent for the 3k oil change.

i have a local oil change lube place that has AMSoil as an option for their quick change so i normally use them for both of my cars. Funny thing is that when i didn't get it done on the 9 because i got a free change at another place (they used Pennzoil) my wife told me she could tell the difference in the car's performance and it felt sluggish. I told her that's why we pay more for a once a year oil change with AMSoil because its much better :)
 
Try Advance Auto Parts. They usually always have good sales on oil/filter combo's. You can get 5 quarts or jug of Mobil 1 or EP with M1 filter for about $30-$35. I'm still using Castrol Edge with K&N filters for my cars now, got them on sale at AAP.
 
That oil looks fine to me. Not dirty at all. I can't see how it could be dirty after 2K miles. Oil is not suppose to stay goldish in color forever, even after 2K miles standard oil will change color. Synthetic will stay goldfish longer.
As far as Fitlers are concerned. I would not spend the money on K&N (made by Mobil anyway) anything nor would I spend the money on a mobil 1 filter, OEM is best and only around $5-6. Why bother with the others which are less quality.
Spend the money on good oil and good filter (OEM is best). Mobil 1 is one of the best and easiest to find. I myself go far and beyond that and use MOTUL.


Best filters: AC Delco, Baldwin, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N.

Medium: Napa, Wix, Purolator Pureone (best bang for buck usually), OEM

Crap filters: Fram, Bosch, Pennzoil & Quaker (made by Fram)


Don't get too caught up in the oil and filter wars. Stick with a good oil and filter that is convenient to get and affordable for you. I run Mobil 1 or Motul, Mobil 1 if I run out of Motul and have not ordered any. I run both a good amount over the intervals and change the filter with 1 L of oil halfway through. I have done this on all my cars including all my alfa romeo's with great results. No need to waste money on changing oil every time you turn around. Use 100% synthetic and a good filter and extend the interval by 2-4K miles. Not a problem. Just some advice.
 
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After a lot of research....

I'm using the Motorcraft filter and Motorcraft 5-20w synthetic blend oil. 5 quarts at Walmart for around $18. Great reviews on both. Since I do a lot of hwy miles, I change between 5-6k miles.
 
Adhere to Mazda's oil change schedule until powertrain warranty runs out at 5yr/60K
no matter what expensive oil you use (and save the receipts and mark the date and mileage).

A while back when Toyota had the engine oil sludge problem in their engines, Toyota asked for such receipts to
prove that you DIY the oil changes.
 
I just ordered 5 OEM oil filters from http://www.buyourmazdaparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1383 for $4.25/each, plus $10 shipping, total $31.25 to my door. I figured it was a decent enough deal after browsing ebay and amazon.

Getting ready for first oil change on our 2011 CX-9. Dealer recommended doing first change at 4 months or 4,000 miles. 4 months has just passed, and the car has 2,500 miles on it.
My question is regarding extended drain intervals, and OEM oil filter. My wife only puts about 8k miles a year on her vehicles, so I would like to start an annual oil drain interval. Would the OEM filter be the weak link here, if I go with Mobil 1, or Amsoil Signature Series 5w-20? (still on the fence on whether to order Amsoil or pickup the Mobil 1 for cheap from Wal-Mart) Or is the OEM oil filter perfectly fine for 8-10k miles? Worse case scenario, I could just change the oil filter every 6 months/4k-ish miles.

I'll have to double check the manual, but I think most manuals give different oil drain intervals, depending on your driving. Her driving would warrant the longest miles/months, if there are different options for this Mazda. 3,500 mile oil changes are ridiculous.

I'm not too concerned with motor failure and warranty. Because of her driving habbits, the 60 months will expire, and the car will have around 40k miles on it. No 2011 vehicle should have any signs of engine wear at 40k miles, unless it was completely abused...

That oil looks fine to me. Not dirty at all. I can't see how it could be dirty after 2K miles. Oil is not suppose to stay goldish in color forever, even after 2K miles standard oil will change color. Synthetic will stay goldfish longer.
As far as Fitlers are concerned. I would not spend the money on K&N (made by Mobil anyway) anything nor would I spend the money on a mobil 1 filter, OEM is best and only around $5-6. Why bother with the others which are less quality.
Spend the money on good oil and good filter (OEM is best). Mobil 1 is one of the best and easiest to find. I myself go far and beyond that and use MOTUL.


Best filters: AC Delco, Baldwin, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N.

Medium: Napa, Wix, Purolator Pureone (best bang for buck usually), OEM

Crap filters: Fram, Bosch, Pennzoil & Quaker (made by Fram)


Don't get too caught up in the oil and filter wars. Stick with a good oil and filter that is convenient to get and affordable for you. I run Mobil 1 or Motul, Mobil 1 if I run out of Motul and have not ordered any. I run both a good amount over the intervals and change the filter with 1 L of oil halfway through. I have done this on all my cars including all my alfa romeo's with great results. No need to waste money on changing oil every time you turn around. Use 100% synthetic and a good filter and extend the interval by 2-4K miles. Not a problem. Just some advice.
 
For you DIYers, consider the Fumoto valve, which makes the oil change much easier.
 
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For you DIYers, consider the Fomoto valve, which makes the oil change much easier.

Thanks ceric, great idea! Since I plan on doing UOA's, starting from this oil change going forward, I decided to order Fumoto valves for the CX-9 and my truck today. After reading pdxa4's 2011 Oil Change DIY and looking at his pics, I realized that I did not need the extension piece (ADP-107), even though the quickoildrainvalve.com website says I do. His thread helped to save me $7! :D(breakn)
 
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