Maxx Mazda's 2011 Build Thread

Well, the time has come to revamp the P5. Got bored of the old setup, so I decided to tear it all down and go for something new. Engine is being rebuilt again with CP 8.5:1 custom oversize pistons, Pauter rods, custom built head with oversize valves, and Integral stage 3 cams, etc. The turbo setup may stay the same, I really like my manifold. The Haltech is getting a bit of a revamp, as well as a few new gauges. Basically, the whole powertrain will be torn down, inspected, and rebuilt, making improvements where I can. This is going to be a big build. I'm going to keep a few of my plans "secret" for now, but I will reveal them in due time.

The car has been in storage since August 19, 2008. Over two years since this thing has seen the road. The engine was removed last summer, and torn down, and parts cataloged. You can see what I mean when I say this car is getting a thurough once over. Teardown and planning isn't really all that exciting, so i decided not to document it here, but I will commence with the rebuild.

Few days ago, I decided to get cracking on the transmission, I have a spare built the same, but this one is going in the car. Tore it down, cleaned and inspected everything. The transmission features a welded MSP LSD, GTX 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, revised shift forks, and the '03.5 updated synchros. All bearings and bushings checked out, and the gearset shafts were shimmed right on the tight side of Mazda's spec to ensure they don't spread apart under load, as I'm not running straight cut gears. This step, although crucial is a TOTAL pain in the ass, and requires some special tools to do properly.

While I was in there, I decided to mount a sensor for a transmission temperature gauge. There isn't much room in there in a spot where the sensor will be submurged in the transmission oil, but I did manage to find what I consider an ideal spot, just below the main shift linkage shaft. There is a small "indent" that will allow for an Autometer sensor, and not interfere with anything. This is in the bottom of the case, and will keep the sensor submurged. On the outside, it does not interfere wit hthe lower chassis crossmember, although it is close.

Drilled an appropreate sized hole, and tapped it for 1/8" NPT:





You can see the "perfect" indent:



Sensor installed, teflon tape was applied. Looks like a good fit:





The shift linkage shaft is reinstalled, and there is plenty of clearance on all sides:





The rest of the assembly was unremarkable, I've only done this about 15 times...

A teaser shot to show the new gauge layout. From left to right:

Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, EGT, wideband, boost/vac, fuel pressure, transmission temp. Also moved the TurboXS knocklite up to the column pod, but more details on this later.

Few new goodies.

Got the crank back from the machine shop, polished up and freshly balanced:





I forgot I had this thing, but dug out my DocB oil pump, with external regulator. All bearings will be Clevite.







Integral Cams stage 3 turbo cams, the specs on these things are outta this world.





CP custom pistons. 8.5:1 CR, and they're flat-topped, not domed like the Arias ones I used to run. This should work with the head and squeeze all combustion gasses towards the middle of the cylinder.





626 intake manifold. Ported, VTCS removed, EGR blocked, and a block off plate added. You can see the big threaded hole for my Haltech air temperature sensor. having it directly in the manifold will give the most accurate reading.





Preview shot of the turbo setup:



Throttle body, stock IAC valve removed. A haltech stepper is used instead.

Sub. Looking forward to the finished product.

Some serious s*** going on in here.... subbin.

Ballin ass build.

sub...awesome parts

subbin!

Looking good as always!

...I'lll be taking notes

Sickness! Trick' transmission temp monitor setup man, you've got skills.
OG build!
Thats got to be an original spool turbo mani..??..if I remember correctly they had a few different kinds or at least someone made a knock off of spools manifold.

Man, that transmission looks hot! If you dont mind if i pm you question on the tranny because im having issues with mine XD.


SUBBED!! i'm looking forward to the final product.

It's an original SPOOL tubular manifold. I don't think there's too many of those around anymore. I love it. Flows extremely well, good solid design, well built.

Nice, thought so. My friend jomo from the forum had and I helped him get it installed, was such a nice mani.

I have one of those rare manis as well

It seems you are going to hit some sick numbers when done bro.... I like the Gauges i might add another 2 gauges as well, now i know where to put them.... Keep us update it... one thing now that your block is off why dont you Sleeve the Block ???? what piston size are you going to use ??

Also just an idea why not move the Radio Down and gauges up,it will flow almost along with Column and cluster gauges....

sub. looks sick so far

Finally some documentation of your sick setup... Sub!

A few shots of the block, sorry its dusty it's been sitting for awhile! Hot tanked, bore honed, casting flash removed, and the mains were align honed. The block will be masked and bead blasted, then sprayed silver. I'm bored of the black.











I didn't like how my FMIC used to sit, so I fabbed up some new brackets, notched the bumper and moved it up, leveled and centered it. Painted the brackets black so that once the bumper is on, the FMIC has that "floating" look. It almost fills the entire lower grill opening, and since the main rebar support was not cut, crash integrity was not compromised.





My underhood wire tuck is coming along nicely. The entire factory harness was stripped right back to the ECU. I took apart the entire harness, and de-pinned (NOT cut) the stock ECU connector to remove everything non-essential. By non-essential I mean anything not required to run the factory gauge cluster. The stock harness was cut down to about 10 wires, the rest go to the haltech.

There will be three main "trunk lines." All three eminate from the pass through in the firewall. One trunk runs to the drivers side, and then splits off, one to the fuse box (this is not being relocated, I like the accessibility) the other runs to all engine connections, directly behind the engine. The final trunk runs to the passenger side, down past the washer bottle, and it too splits off to feed things like the CMP sensor, CKP sensor, RA-10, thermocouple, methanol pump, etc.

A tertiary trunk was also run under the rad support for things like rad fans, A/C compressor, headlights, etc. This line runs to the fuse box. I will explain this system in more detail as time passes, but I'm excited about it.

A pic of a couple connectors I managed to finish:



Inside, an entire revamp took place. I didn't go to the level that Brian did, I still use this car everyday in the summer, I saw no need to create my own wiring for tail lights, etc. For the most part, apart from cruise, all non-engine related systems are left as is. (Power windows, locks, lighting, etc.) For everything I've added, IE the Haltech, gauges, etc, I decided to add a standalone power source, so as to not "tap into" any factory connections. I installed a Painless fuse panel, powered directly from the battery, and installed junction blocks for each system. There is a wire run directly form the hot side of the battery, through a 100A circuit breaker, to the fuse block. A seperate ground was run to the metal bracket beside the box, and an ignition wire from the relay. From there, I ran seperate circuits to three banks of gauges, the shift light, turbo timer, etc. To keep everything modular, junction blocks were used under the dash, for power, ground, and seperate signals for the gauges. All connections were soldered, heat shrinked, and sealed, then wrapped just like stock into their own harness. The end result is something I'm VERY satisfied with, everything has its own harness, is completely modular, and will be extremely easy to diagnose should there be a problem.

Aux fuse panel, drivers side:



100A circuit breaker:



Example showing gauge signal junction block. Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, trans temp:



Rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder:





And as I was going through old parts, found some AWR trailing links I completely forgot about stuffed under my storage cabinet!

win!

sick