Dynapak Dyno Day - Baseline!!

batou079

Member
Well i went with my local club for a Dyno Day @ Church Automotive on Saturday.
I was a little impressed with the numbers, but then again, numbers seem to be very dyno-type specific.
So i wont really know true gain numbers till i start going in for additional dyno's after i do a bit more work on mah car. Keep in mind, i will be staying relatively conservative since its my DD, but do like to eek a bit more power out of it.

Here is the best pull i had that day, they did 4-5 for me.
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Here's a little clip of my car on the dynapaks. Stock exhaust at high RPM sounds like a leafblower! haha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzm-HXzqELo&feature=channel

So the main thing that impressed me was the difference i had compared to a stock MS6 ran his Dyno just before me, only thing different from stock was upgraded plugs... His best pull was 250 awhp @ 291 torque. Not bad for stock yey? Only 8% drivetrain loss is interesting... usually its like 20%-ish!

From the graph you can see my best was 267 awhp @ 305 torque (at the hub)!!! Pretty nice gains over stock for very minimal performance mods... CAI/bpv/grounding kit, thas all!
Mind you, after the first two pulls, they dump about a gallon of water on the I/C since it was pretty damn hot in the sun that day, which my car had been sitting in for 2+ hrs. So the gains from my worst to best are slightly inconsistant, but then again they can never replicate exactly how much air our cars get when at speed/freeway.

only thing i was kinda curious about is my AFR. It shouldnt be a steady decline like mine showed. It SHOULD be a sudden drop and then consistent levels when he went WOT. I guess he didnt truely go wide open throttle? *shrug*

Next step is TIP, then upgraded plugs, then... thinkin of doing more suspension.
Performance wise, on a conservative level to squeeze out a couple more HP, what yall think is a good next step... not counting exhaust... DP, CBE plans are for next year.

cheers!
(drunk)
 
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that is power to the hub, not power to the wheels. get that thing tuned though, that curve is ugly. i hope judging by the graphs he didn't go WOT at 1800rpm and actually waited til 3000. but judging by the afr graph it looks like he did go wot at 3k, afr looks normal for stock ecu mapping.
 
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lol yes i said hub. i just denoted awhp later on cause idk how else to denote all-hub hp. hehe.

yay, it does look like a more dramatic drop at around 3000rpm, as far as tuning... yall think its that necessary with just intake? what about a tune after inlet & plugs?
 
its only necessary if you want more power up top and a nicer looking hp and torque curve.
 
My MS6 was the car that batou is talking about that went first, and these are my plots:

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On my worst run, the guy said the car knocked hard; apparently it pulled the power back during the run. The second run is the blue one here, and the third was similar in shape but the power was down slightly. The guy also poured the half gallon of water over my IC, but he did it after the first run which is why my second run was the best of the day.

I'm stock aside from the Denso ITV22 plugs, which I'm starting to consider swapping back (or getting the NGK stock plugs and replacing my stockers with those instead) since I haven't done anything. The new plugs did make a difference in how the car felt (peppier at lower RPMs), but I think that's also meant worse gas mileage. I knock with either type of plugs in.
 
pouring water over the tmic is not a wise idea with the coils sitting right below. but i guess your car survived so its ok.
 
pouring water over the tmic is not a wise idea with the coils sitting right below. but i guess your car survived so its ok.

Not to mention it could cause stress cracking on the intercooler itself. Be very careful about doing that next time.
 
Not to mention it could cause stress cracking on the intercooler itself. Be very careful about doing that next time.

this is what i was most worried about stresscracks from immediate tempurature change... the coils i thought have some sort of rubber seals on em? water shouldnt be an issue... i thought.

We did not do this ourselves or ask them to, they just went ahead and did it.
They know their mazdas pretty damn well, tune them often, work on them often so im sure they know if it truely safe or not.
 
yeah, i had no issues with them dumping water on the FMICs but to do that on a hot running engine seems risky? you could get the same result from an icepack or something else? I think they need a different kind of cooling fan for the TMIC set ups?
 
Yeah, when the guy did it I wasn't exactly thrilled, but the car seemed to be alright with it and I haven't had any problems since. I don't think I'd let someone do that again though, too much to worry about with having water poured over the engine like that.

So, since there were no comments, does that mean my car is running alright? ;)
 
big difference in a/f plots between these two cars. the first plot shows 12.5 @ 4k and the second about 11.25 @ 4k.
did they log the a/f straight off the ecu?
 
Whats the point of water spray kits / CO2 spray if it causes stress fractures?

Stress fractures seem unlikely unless the IC is HOT and the water is freezing
 
Whats the point of water spray kits / CO2 spray if it causes stress fractures?

Stress fractures seem unlikely unless the IC is HOT and the water is freezing

The carbon dioxide spray kits that you see people use on intercooler surfaces are not a direct temperature change. The CO2 molecules atomize with the air passing through the intercooler fins allowing an even dispersal of the temperature changing element across the surface.

Pouring a bucket of water or ice on a hot intercooler is a direct and rapid temperature change. That rapid temperature change is what causes stress fractures in metals.
 
big difference in a/f plots between these two cars. the first plot shows 12.5 @ 4k and the second about 11.25 @ 4k.
did they log the a/f straight off the ecu?

I don't think so, both of us had Dashhawks installed and they didn't plug anything into the ODB2 port. There was a sensor stuck in the tailpipe, but nothing under the hood...they must have pulled it off the tailpipe sensor somehow.
 
yay i wasnt so happy about my A/F curve.
then again, he makes a good point about how accurate is that reading?
exhaust sensor read all that? hmm... now im curious cause they didnt connect a single thing under the hood! ...
 
Yeah, the sniffer in the tail pipe is the same type setup that the smog police use. It is quite accurate although it depends on how it is inserted into the pipe, the cleanliness of the sensor, etc. I would take the AFR readings as accurate though.

The dyno operator should have connected to either the OBD port, or to a boost line and plug lead wire under the hood for rpms and boost.
 
aha, so my AFR is accuratly not good. lol. that at least helps reassure me that i have a good baseline to figure out whats wrong...

They wanted to plug into boost too, but apparantly could not connect to the boost line unless we had a T-connector in-line for him to use.
 
aha, so my AFR is accuratly not good. lol. that at least helps reassure me that i have a good baseline to figure out whats wrong...

They wanted to plug into boost too, but apparantly could not connect to the boost line unless we had a T-connector in-line for him to use.

Sounds like a pretty flakey dyno operator setup if they don't have all the accessories to hook it up.... Oh well, next time try to find a newer DynoJet for a more accurate to-the-wheels dyno run
 
aye, im not so fond of Dynopak. i got a guy that runs evos and sti all teh time in my town.
he uses dynojet, ill use him next time and now on for dynos for sure!
 
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