How to fix your rear Squeaky Squeaky in less time than it take to drive to the Dealer

AO928

Member
:
2008 Mazda5
Time: 20 Minutes

Skill level: Beginner

Special Tools: None!

My 2008 5 recently came off warranty and of course developed the dreaded squeaky squeaky rear suspension. Since there is a TSB on it and it basically shows you how to fix it, I decided to tackle it.

This is really a very easy fix. You can literally have it done in less time than it takes to drive it to the Stealership.

What you need:
1. 14mm Socket
2. Some grease (TSB calls for lithium grease, but I used M1 Synthetic Grease)

If you're skinny, you probably can do this without jacking up the rear end. I'm not skinny, so I put the rear end up on ramps.

The first thing to to do is to locate the the rear sway bar bushings. There are two of them - one on each side. You'll want to do one side at a time to keep things pretty much lined up for re-installation.

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Start by loosening the two bolts that hold the bushing in place. This is the hardest part of the entire job. They're on there pretty good.

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Once you have removed the two bolts, pull the bushing bracket off. You might need a screwdriver to pop it off, but mine came off by hand.

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You will now be able to pull the rubber bushing off. It's split on the back side, so it's just a matter of rotating it and slipping it off of the swaybar.

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Now, you'll want to clean off any debris that may be on the sway bar and certainly the inside of the bushing. Then put a coat of grease on the inside of the bushing.

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Now reinstall the bushing. When re-installing the bushing bracket, make sure the arrow points up.

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Re-install the bolts. BTW, I put a little anti-sieze on the bolts just in case I have to do this job again in a couple of years. Tighten the bolts to 30-40 ftlbs. It should look something like this.

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Now repeat on the other side. Total job should take about 20 min or less. The best part is having a quiet rear suspension again! :D

Hope this helps some of you.
 
front bushings should be almost as easy, same concept. rubber bushings (and urethane ones) squeak when they dry out and when rust forms underneath. grease is only a temporary fix as it will wear out.
 
Thanks for the how-to. I have the TSB but your directions were so much simpler to follow. Just finished doing this to the rear bushings on my 5. I just crawled right under the car and did it. I can see it being a lot easier with the car raised but I had no problems and I definitely do not fall into the skinny category. I still need to tackle the front but I'll be doing that next week when I change the oil. I don't think there's anyone skinny enough to do the front without raising the vehicle.
 
You could order new bushings prior to doing this job. They have after-market and OEM bushings that are of more durable compounds.
 
Nice to see that you used synthetic grease. For those who may not know, regular grease damages rubber. Thats why back in school the guidance teacher told you not to put vaseline on your rubber. sqeak,squeak,squeak, now how to fix that damn bed!
 
The replacement bushings for the front were only $12.00 at the stealer........ Replacement was a little more difficult because of where they're mounted, but still a DIY......... The loud knocking in the front is gone and I'm getting ready to replace the rear one's...... thanks for the pic's and the steps....... Rear replacement bushings should hopefully be the same price......
 
Nice to see that you used synthetic grease. For those who may not know, regular grease damages rubber. Thats why back in school the guidance teacher told you not to put vaseline on your rubber. sqeak,squeak,squeak, now how to fix that damn bed!

It's petroleum distillates that will "eat" rubber. Hence the warning about using Vaseline. Most (but not all) Lithium based greases are free from petroleum distillates and are therefore safe for this application.
 
It's petroleum distillates that will "eat" rubber. Hence the warning about using Vaseline. Most (but not all) Lithium based greases are free from petroleum distillates and are therefore safe for this application.

Way back in mekanic school we learned that some lithium grease has petroleum distillates, some have silicone. So I found it's just easier using a silicone grease to be sure.
 
Lithium refers to the "thickener" part of the grease. Lithium greases can have refined oil or synthetic oil. Actually, most lithium greases you find do contain refined oil.
 
When was the last time Mazda revised the bushings? I've got an '09 and wondering with 15,000 miles if I should just lube the originals or just go pick up new ones, as they may have been revised. Anyone know?
 
Wonder if there's some greasable bushing for our vehicles? I don't have this issue yet, but if/when I do, I'll look into it.
 
I'm sure there are. Just have to find the right size.

I found some Energy greasable bushings at Advance Auto Parts but they only carry like 3/4 or 1" or whatever. As I was told our bars are 21 and 20 mm. So I went to Energy's site and the closest greasable bushings are 20.5 or 22mm. SOL

But they do make a bushing without a nipple in 20 and 21mm. Maybe using a better quality bushing from a better company will make a difference.
 
If they can't be found, they can always be made!

Should simply be a matter of drilling/tapping the 'clip' and installing a zerk fitting. Some modification would still need to be done to the rubber to allow the grease to encircle it, but that too should be easy with a blade.
 
I'm getting a thud sound when I go over bumps coming from the rear of the vehicle. Could this be the bushings as well?
 
I'm getting a thud sound when I go over bumps coming from the rear of the vehicle. Could this be the bushings as well?

MY use to do that as well. On the first pics,do u see the green looking nut ( tighten that with an allen key and your good to go. ) . Now after that was done, sound went away. Hope this help Jason P. But what happen if you over tighten the bushing bracket bolt and strip the nut side, now what than?
 
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