How to change front brake pads

J

jediwebdude

Member
This is a step-by-step how-to for changing front brake pads. I did not remove the rotors (tried, but couldn't get the screws undone).

Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic. Heck...I'm not even mechanically inclined. Keep in mind this is my first time to ever work on brakes. These photos and text are a demonstration of how I did the brake change on my wife's CX-9. Much of the know-how here was obtained from YouTube videos and info from a buddy. So follow at your own risk. (screwy)

TOOLS
Mazda is metric. Lugnuts/bolts are 21mm and 17mm sockets. Other tools used are in the photo below:
1a.jpg


I had no clue where to put the jack stands. The lifting jack is exactly where the manual says it goes. So I put jack stands under various parts of the frame as additional support. Yeah...I'm clueless, but at least it was extra safe.
1b.jpg


Brakes are ceramics from AutoZone. They include the clips and a packet of lube.
1c.jpg
 
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Be sure to put blocks behind and in front of the rear tires. There's a point in the process where I put the vehicle in neutral to spin the rotors for sanding.
2a.jpg


After removing the wheel/tire with a 21mm deep socket for lugnuts and a cordless impact drill, the first thing I did was remove the brake line from the holder closest to the brake.
3a.jpg


Using pliers, I pulled the spring tab, then pushed the cable away from me to free the metal housing, then completely free of the holder.
3b.jpg
 
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CX9 SportOwner said:
You need an impact screwdriver for drum and rotor removal.

NEVER put weight on non jack points. You may be supporting the vehicle by body only, causing major damage. Alway use the jack points.
Click to expand...

But where exactly are the other jack points? Nothing in the manual, and nothing online regarding this. I even posted the question in a thread and received zero responses.
 
Removal of the first caliper piece.
4a.jpg


Bolts after removal. The longer bolt goes on top.
4b.jpg


Dual pistons. We'll push 'em back later.
4c.jpg


Bungee cord to hold this caliper piece while I work on the pads.
4d.jpg
 
How many miles are on your CX9 that it needed a brake job? Did you have the clicking sound when going forward and reverse?
 
CX9 SportOwner said:
I am at 33 and not even close to a brake job. Sounds like someone drives with there foot resting on the pedal.
Click to expand...

Some of us actually experience extreme traffic. DC is horrible, but not as bad a LA. Traffic goes from 60 to nothing fast. The crappy OEM rotors do not dissipate heat very well.

I noticed the OP uses bungee cords to hang is caliper. Oh mister fancy, I resort to using a wire coat hanger that I also use to unclog the toilet.
 
rslam said:
How many miles are on your CX9 that it needed a brake job? Did you have the clicking sound when going forward and reverse?
Click to expand...

Word on the street is replacing motor mounts fixes this issue. As for myself I will replace my front rotors, when the correct ones come in (beware of parts sites listing wrong rotors).

I also plan on greasing the tabs on the pad backing that fits into the shuttle clips to see if this helps. It might be attributed to sticky brake pads shifting when the car is placed into gear. Dunno.
 
Lindyrect said:
Some of us actually experience extreme traffic. DC is horrible, but not as bad a LA. Traffic goes from 60 to nothing fast. The crappy OEM rotors do not dissipate heat very well.

I noticed the OP uses bungee cords to hang is caliper. Oh mister fancy, I resort to using a wire coat hanger that I also use to unclog the toilet.
Click to expand...

Yep...my wife drives 70 miles roundtrip daily in Dallas stop-n-go traffic.
 
The bolts on the left are 21mm heads and on the right are 17mm heads.
5c.jpg


After removing the old pads, I sprayed this down with brake cleaner and wiped it somewhat clean. Probably not necessary, but did it anyway. Using the grease included with the brake pads, I put grease down the holes for the pins.
5e.jpg


New pads and clips installed and ready to go on.
7-new-pads.jpg


I don't own a grinder. Was informed that 60 grit sandpaper applied to both sides of the rotor is the next best thing. Prior to sanding, I cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner and wiped them down. After sanding, I again wiped down the rotors.
8-sanding.jpg
 
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jediwebdude said:
Exactly the page that shows only one on the side for the lifting jack. This isn't the location for jack stands.
Click to expand...

The way I usually do it is by lifting the front end using the subframe (back end on the differential) and then the jack stands go where the the jack points are. Subframe and differential is definitely strong enough. You just need to make sure that the jack you're using is rated for lifting that much weight.
 
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Using a c-clamp and one of the old pads, I pushed the dual pistons back to be flush. This enabled me to put the caliper on over the new pads. Since I had to remove the caliper from the bungee cord and needed both hands to utilize the c-clamp and hold the caliper, I stuck a cooler in the wheel well and set the caliper on top.
9b.jpg


Putting pads and housing back on was a bit of a challenge with the 21mm bolts. Difficult to line up the holes with the bolts when you can't see 'em. The CX-9 wheel well provides a lot of room to work in, but my noggin wouldn't fit in there enough to see.
9c.jpg


Next step was putting the caliper back on with the 17mm bolts. Remember to put the longer bolt on top.
9d.jpg


Last step was putting the brake line back in its place with the spring clip. Finished!
9e.jpg
 
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As I stated, this was my first time to ever do brake work and I found it far less intimidating than what I had anticipated.

I really appreciate the additional input from others on this thread. That info, plus any more added, will hopefully aid others in this endeavor.

-Phil
 
CX9 SportOwner said:
That is where you put the jack stands, but that assumes you have a floor jack, not just the car's scissor jack. These points are for end symmetrical stands (two front, two back, or all four), or scissor jacking one tire only.
Click to expand...

If you look in the 2nd photo I posted, you'll see I was using a floor jack at the appropriate spot in accordance with 7-9 in the manual. I first inspected that area and there was no way I was putting a jack stand there...it just didn't look safe. As you can see in the photo, I used the floor jack in the appropriate place and the 2 jack stands below frame/sub-frame areas for a combined 3 points of holding the vehicle (I only took off one wheel at a time). Maybe the tops of my jack stands differ from yours and that's why you are more comfy putting yours there.

CX9 SportOwner said:
Also, avoid putting grease on the pad clips. Use a anti squeal compound instead. Grease can melt and end up on the pads or rotors.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I only put grease where the brake diagram stated, which was where the sliding pins go. The last place to put grease is on the pad clips since they had a hard enough time staying on with what little grip they had. I had to adjust the clips' grip just to keep them on.

CX9 SportOwner said:
Here is my Water Pump pliers next to a pair of 9 1/2" Arc Joint (channel lock) pliers. No shop should be without a pair...
Click to expand...

Have those, but went with the multiple pieces of advice I received to use the c-clamp. But I think your suggestion is a good one and will keep that in mind in the future.
 
Bleed 'em, too

Nice write up and pics, Jedi - thanks.
FWIW (2cents)When I do my pad replacement, I find it a good practice to bleed off each corner I'm replacing. The brake fluid that does all the work at the pistons is usually dirty and probably has absorbed some moisture. I only bleed off a few ounces - just an ounce after it runs clear.
I do the bleed with a pressure bleeder because my helpers have gone off and gotten married :) - but if my wife is available she'll do in a pinch and then I don't have to go through the pressure bleeder set-up rigamarole. Just a couple of pumps of the brake pedal (with a 1/2" block between it and the firewall) coordinated with opening and closing the bleeder nipple and it's done. Nice clean fluid at the business end.
I do the bleed before the removal of the caliper so that when I push the piston(s) back in I'm not squeezing dirty brake fluid back up the pipe.
Again, thanks for the write up and pics - Nice job!
 
CX9 SportOwner said:
This is what I meant by a floor jack...

I had it out to look for a scraping noise. Turned out to be a rock stuck between the rotor and dust shield.

I also checked the pads again. Still 1/4" of usable pad left at 35k. Looked brand new.
Click to expand...

Yep...that's what I used...a floor jack. If you look at the 2nd picture in this thread, just left of the Hitachi impact drill is a red floor jack.
 
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