CX-9 brake job - changing front brake pads

I haven't been able to find on this forum anywhere pictures and/or tips for changing the brake pads on the CX-9. The only YouTube vids are for Mazda cars. So, I decided to embark on my first-ever brake job. Wife has been complaining of squeaky brakes, so I'm changing out the front pads, so my first-ever brake experiment will be on her CX-9. Good thing I'm not the primary driver of it. (boom01)

I'll do rear pads in a couple of weeks (and maybe rotors since I see some posts on here about crappy OEM rotors).

I'm taking notes and photos as I go. I'm on lunch break now, so for now here is a starting photo.

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Wanted to point out that even though there were no CX-9 brake work videos, I watched about a half-dozen brake work videos to get a general idea of what needs to occur. One of my mechanically-inclined buddies at work watched some of them with me and provided me great tips/advice.

Reason I'm doing the brake pad work myself is because the last time I had brake work done (on our 2002 Acura MDX that preceded the CX-9), it cost me over $600. I'm convinced I was ripped off. :eek: I refused to be a victim again. So far, this brake job has cost me about $110 (ceramic brake pads, pair of jack stands, can of brake cleaner, and rubber gloves).
 
Wanted to point out that even though there were no CX-9 brake work videos, I watched about a half-dozen brake work videos to get a general idea of what needs to occur. One of my mechanically-inclined buddies at work watched some of them with me and provided me great tips/advice.

Reason I'm doing the brake pad work myself is because the last time I had brake work done (on our 2002 Acura MDX that preceded the CX-9), it cost me over $600. I'm convinced I was ripped off. :eek: I refused to be a victim again. So far, this brake job has cost me about $110 (ceramic brake pads, pair of jack stands, can of brake cleaner, and rubber gloves).

Excellent. Keep going and good luck.
 
You might want to add a small packet of lube(for the slide pins) to the list. I always relube the sliders and make sure that no dirt gets on the pin or in the hole. Don't forget that you need to compress the pistons to fit the new pads in. A C-clamp for the front would work.
 
You might want to add a small packet of lube(for the slide pins) to the list. I always relube the sliders and make sure that no dirt gets on the pin or in the hole. Don't forget that you need to compress the pistons to fit the new pads in. A C-clamp for the front would work.

Good point on the lube. So happened that the Duralast Gold ceramic brake pads from AutoZone included a pack of lube and the replacement clips. Someone posted a brake diagram on this forum, and it showed where to do the lubing.

I'm done, test drive went well, now I'll formulate a tutorial with photos and post in the How To section.

-Phil
 
I thought about posting pics of my rear rotor and brake changes, but instructing my son while fixing was hard enough.
 
Good point on the lube. So happened that the Duralast Gold ceramic brake pads from AutoZone included a pack of lube and the replacement clips. Someone posted a brake diagram on this forum, and it showed where to do the lubing.

I'm done, test drive went well, now I'll formulate a tutorial with photos and post in the How To section.

-Phil

this would be great.
 
just to note.... those that are not familiar with pad changes... before you use the c-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper be sure to remove the lid from the brake fluid reservoir and place a rag around it in case it overflows.

once you have finished, cycle the brake pedal until it becomes firm. on your test drive, DON'T jam on the brake pedal for a panic stop. the new pads will need to break in, and they will be very susceptible to overheating. i usually find a back road, slow the car from 40mph or so down to about 10mph, then go back up to speed. i repeat this 4 or 5 times. this will break in the pads without them overheating. you want to keep the car moving so everything stays cool.

Al
 
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