Corksport DP question

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coyfish

Member
Im getting a DP and im battling between the CS and the CPE. I always associate CPE with the highest quality parts for our car but also the highest price. I do know that corksport makes great products though. And a good product for under 400 bucks is a good deal to me. Im leaning towards the CS but I took a look at its design and it made me think. What made you guys go with the divorced pipe? Any advantages / disadvantages?? I have no idea how to install a DP yet but I know its a tight fit which makes things difficult. That double pipe seems like it would be harder to squeeze in.

Also is this install feasable with jack stands / rhino ramps?? My dads got about every hardware tool known to man in his garage but I don't want to be on my back with my nose 2 inches from the bottom of the car trying to find leverage to remove a rusted bolt. A lot of people seem to break expensive O2 sensors on the install as well. I will have the time to install it over xmas break but im not in the mood to break my O2 sensor or get stuck half way through and have to tow my car somewhere to finish the job. From what I gather the install isn't "hard" . . . its just tedious with lots of tight corners and annoying bolts.

Thanks for any advice.
 
coyfish said:
Im getting a DP and im battling between the CS and the CPE. I always associate CPE with the highest quality parts for our car but also the highest price. I do know that corksport makes great products though. And a good product for under 400 bucks is a good deal to me. Im leaning towards the CS but I took a look at its design and it made me think. What made you guys go with the divorced pipe? Any advantages / disadvantages?? I have no idea how to install a DP yet but I know its a tight fit which makes things difficult. That double pipe seems like it would be harder to squeeze in.

Also is this install feasable with jack stands / rhino ramps?? My dads got about every hardware tool known to man in his garage but I don't want to be on my back with my nose 2 inches from the bottom of the car trying to find leverage to remove a rusted bolt. A lot of people seem to break expensive O2 sensors on the install as well. I will have the time to install it over xmas break but im not in the mood to break my O2 sensor or get stuck half way through and have to tow my car somewhere to finish the job. From what I gather the install isn't "hard" . . . its just tedious with lots of tight corners and annoying bolts.

Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...

There are all sorts of designs available for downpipes out there. There were several factors that went into us choosing to go with the divorced design over others like clearance with other parts (alternator), radius of bend for exhaust flow, etc.

Installation of a downpipe in the Mazdaspeed 6 is tough but very do-able if you have a good selection of tools. Jackstands and or ramps are fine for the installation. Working on the O2 sensor with penetrant and taking your time is important to be successful in removing the O2 sensor.

Send me an email and I can get you a copy of the installation instructions so you can see what is involved with the installation.

-Derrick
 
Thanks for the response. Even though I have no corksport products ive always been keen on your products and good customer service. Ill be purchasing your downpipe this weekend as my early xmas gift :). Hopefully I don't run into too many problems with the install.

When it comes to installing car parts its usually rusted bolts / hard to reach stuff that takes the most time.
 
i went with CP-E and i love it.. sounds mean as hell and you can tell the quality of the build.. i know other guys that had lots of problems installing the CS DP... I also broke off the o2 sensor.. just soke it alot before you do it..
 
coyfish said:
Thanks for the response. Even though I have no corksport products ive always been keen on your products and good customer service. Ill be purchasing your downpipe this weekend as my early xmas gift :). Hopefully I don't run into too many problems with the install.

When it comes to installing car parts its usually rusted bolts / hard to reach stuff that takes the most time.
Click to expand...

Wear good heat resistant gloves, get penetrating oil onto the turbo studs while the exhaust is still warm (NOT HOT - FIRE BAD!) and let it soak. Be patient. Thoroughly read the installation instructions in advance and you'll be all set.

It is one of the more difficult downpipes in the DISI family (mostly from the standpoint of getting the factory unit out more than putting the new one in).

If you want to take the belt and suspenders approach, grab some spare turbo studs and nuts. Worst case scenario you use a few, best case you return them all to the dealership. The studs have a bad habit of pulling out of the turbocharger instead of the lock nuts coming off of the studs. If that happens with ALL of them, getting ANY downpipe fit into place and the threads started gets a lot tougher. Some insurance with having the studs and nuts available will most likely keep Murphy at bay.

Jason Griffith
Product Development Engineer
CorkSport Mazda Performance
 
Jason@CorkSport said:
Wear good heat resistant gloves, get penetrating oil onto the turbo studs while the exhaust is still warm (NOT HOT - FIRE BAD!) and let it soak. Be patient. Thoroughly read the installation instructions in advance and you'll be all set.

It is one of the more difficult downpipes in the DISI family (mostly from the standpoint of getting the factory unit out more than putting the new one in).

If you want to take the belt and suspenders approach, grab some spare turbo studs and nuts. Worst case scenario you use a few, best case you return them all to the dealership. The studs have a bad habit of pulling out of the turbocharger instead of the lock nuts coming off of the studs. If that happens with ALL of them, getting ANY downpipe fit into place and the threads started gets a lot tougher. Some insurance with having the studs and nuts available will most likely keep Murphy at bay.

Jason Griffith
Product Development Engineer
CorkSport Mazda Performance
Click to expand...

I can +1 all of this. When I was installing my downpipe, my turbo let go of all the studs which made installing the downpipe extremely difficult. Jason knows the trouble I went through. But, after taking the car down to them (thank God I live close :) ), all was solved and well. Definitely great customer service. They know that I'll always come back to them for my performance needs and advice ;)
 
coyfish said:
What do you mean let go of the studs ?? They all stripped ??
Click to expand...

No, no, a turbo, just like the head, uses dual threaded studs. Theres threads on one side that thread into the head or turbo, and then a plain non threaded space and another set of thruds. Basically they look like 2 small collard bolts stuck together without the heads.

When removing the nuts that keep the DP on these studs, some of the nuts will have become heat fused to the stud, bringing the stud out with it. In most all cases its best to replace them when this has happened, as trying the reuse them on a different DP and making them adjust can cause them to snap.

For what its worth, Ive been using CS parts ever since I bought my car and its been nothing but top notch quality and service. ;)
 
No code. That's why we haven't released a DP for the 2010 yet, because we're trying to get it to do the same. The 1st gen's with our DP haven't had any codes from what we have seen on our own cars and what we have heard back from our customers.

Jason
CorkSport
 
Also, if you do go the hardware store route on the downpipe studs, make sure you get stainless and use a dab of anti seize on the nut side, but not on the stud side. That'll help during future work on the car.

That being said, you can completely re-use the studs if they come out with the nut connected to them. There's plenty of room on our downpipes to reuse them all, but if you yard all 5 of them out of the turbo, alignment becomes difficult.

Another consideration to make is the grade of the fasteners. We have always used factory turbo exhaust studs on our installs when they're necessary to get the downpipe hung, and they are most certainly a very high grade stainless unit. We looked into having some made over in Switzerland, but the minimum order quantities prevented us from taking the plunge - mainly because most people just go to the hardware store for the solution. If this is something you guys would be interested in purchasing when you buy a downpipe, let us know and we'll reconsider going that route.

On the nuts, the factory nuts are an interference fit locking flange nut and for the most part (heat certainly doesn't help), the reason they stay on is because they were designed to stay on....the turbocharger doesn't have a similar locking feature in its casting, and so the studs back out of the turbo instead of the nuts coming off the studs. Ensure that when you choose a set of replacement nuts that you either use lock washers or some locking mechanism that can withstand substantial amount of heat or you'll be pulling the intercooler, heat shields, etc to get in there and tighten it all up and/or replace gaskets from the turbo blowing them out after your nuts without a locking mechanism or failed nylock nuts start to back off.

Jason
CorkSport
 
Thanks for the refining their Jason. MY knowledge is mostly from 22 year old equipment and experience of breaking those that seize. Some come off, some dont. I usually always replace them in this case. But for the newer speed motors, your absolutely correct.
 
88323GT said:
Thanks for the refining their Jason. MY knowledge is mostly from 22 year old equipment and experience of breaking those that seize. Some come off, some dont. I usually always replace them in this case. But for the newer speed motors, your absolutely correct.
Click to expand...

The heat certainly doesn't help.

Jason
 
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