Door Panel Removal

Hello,

I looked through all of the threads in this section and Googled like crazy, but could not locate how to remove the front door panel. I would appreciate if someone could post a link, step by step direction, or manual pages to do this. Local audio place wants $100 per set of doors just install the speakers. My wife's passenger side speaker blew out and she never even puts the radio loud. I suspect that since she only uses the front speaker (b/c kids in the back) that there was higher load to the crappy oem speakers?? Who knows...anyhow if I can do the work myself, I can replace all 4 speakers (will leave the dash speakers), for the price of someone doing the work for just two.

Thank you in advance for your assistance!

Unless you're actually upgrading, have the dealer replace the speaker under warranty.

Oh, and that's not how speakers work. THEY are the load. The fader wouldn't allow them to be overdriven. Probably just a fluke.

I thought speakers were not part of the warranty. Time to call the dealer, thanks for the reply!

CX9VA said:

I thought speakers were not part of the warranty. Time to call the dealer, thanks for the reply!

Click to expand...

LOL!!! Well I recieved your email then saw the post so I figured I would just reply here.

I have personally never taken off my door panels, I had all my work done at a stereo shop. I do need to take it off now to find a problem with my window switch so give me a few days and I will post a detailed post in the how to section and post a link here.

Cool, thanks!. Also, I'll let everyone know if the dealer says about my speaker. I figure they would say it's not part of the warranty, but will check.

No problem. The dealer should replace with out a problem tho.

For future refferance door panel is a breeze! I have it off now. I just need to upload pics and post. Tools needed are 10mm, extension, Phillips and flat head.
Only 2 10mm bolts and 1 Phillips head screw to remove it!

Feel free to let me know if I can do any thing else to help

Thanks for your help!

There is a cover behind the Inside Door Release. Carefully pry it from the lock end and gently pull it out. Use a plastic tool, if possible.

Pry off the inside Mirror Mount Cover.

Pry off the back end of the horizontal trim piece that's right below the Arm Pad. Pull it away, working towards the front, and then pull it slightly back and out.

Remove the 2 10mm bolts that the Trim Piece covers, and the phillips screw behind the Door Release.

Reach around to the front edge of the Door Panel, between the lower hinge and the Door Stop. There is an indentation you can get your fingers into. Reach in, then while supporting the back end of the panel, pull quickly. The entire panel comes loose, except at the top. Once loose, lift slightly to unhook the panel from the top edge.

Disconnect the electrical. They are all different, so don't worry about mixing them up. Pop the Courtesy Light bulb out.

Disconnect the Lock Cables. Create a little slack, then lift them out at an angle.

Thanks very much for your post. It will help me out when it comes time to replace the speakers. I had the dealer replace the oem speaker, but I think the oem speakers still sound like crap. I'm thinking of replacing all four door panel speakers.

Thanks again!

The best and easiest way to improve the sound is to upgrade the speakers. The factory units are 6x8 paper cones with whizzer cones. 25 watt max, and probably not very efficient (sensitivity)

I'm going to improve the sound by replacing the 4 door speakers with poly cone coaxial speakers. The speakers will be a lot better, and by being more efficient will make better use of the factory amplifier. FYI, increasing speaker efficiency (sensitivity) 3db is like doubling your amp power.

I'm looking at the Kicker DS680 or the Pyle Blue Label PL683BL. Both very well rated speakers and a huge improvement over factory for little money and hassle.
Parts Express even has the wiring adapters cheap, or you can put your own on.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizard...=CAT&srchCat=13&CFID=9027482&CFTOKEN=39996474


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CX9 SportOwner said:

The best and easiest way to improve the sound is to upgrade the speakers. The factory units are 6x8 paper cones with whizzer cones. 25 watt max, and probably not very efficient (sensitivity)

I'm going to improve the sound by replacing the 4 door speakers with poly cone coaxial speakers. The speakers will be a lot better, and by being more efficient will make better use of the factory amplifier. FYI, increasing speaker efficiency (sensitivity) 3db is like doubling your amp power.

I'm looking at the Kicker DS680 or the Pyle Blue Label PL683BL. Both very well rated speakers and a huge improvement over factory for little money and hassle.
Parts Express even has the wiring adapters cheap, or you can put your own on.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizard...=CAT&srchCat=13&CFID=9027482&CFTOKEN=39996474


.

Click to expand...

CX9 SportOwner said:

The best and easiest way to improve the sound is to upgrade the speakers. The factory units are 6x8 paper cones with whizzer cones. 25 watt max, and probably not very efficient (sensitivity)

I'm going to improve the sound by replacing the 4 door speakers with poly cone coaxial speakers. The speakers will be a lot better, and by being more efficient will make better use of the factory amplifier. FYI, increasing speaker efficiency (sensitivity) 3db is like doubling your amp power.

I'm looking at the Kicker DS680 or the Pyle Blue Label PL683BL. Both very well rated speakers and a huge improvement over factory for little money and hassle.
Parts Express even has the wiring adapters cheap, or you can put your own on.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizard...=CAT&srchCat=13&CFID=9027482&CFTOKEN=39996474


.

Click to expand...

I' was a professional car audio installer for about 12 years and a high end custom shop in Baltimore.
This was in the 90s and I know things have changed, but some of the old logic rules still apply...

I just purchased a 2015 CX-5 touring without the tech package...
In looking at the vehicle I see 2 dash, 2 front door, and 2 rear door speaker locations as well as a center channel location which I presume is not used without the Bose system.

My logic tells me that the dash 3 1/2 inch speakers are being used for tweeters albeit slightly muffled tweeters due to materials and composition.
In the past we simply located a silk dome tweeter in that location very often attached to "perf strap" so that the 1" tweeter could attach to the factory mounting points. (Remember dome tweeters do not require any back pressure as they are self-contained. We did however close off the cavity surrounding the tweeter with either dynamat, or black duct tape depending on the application and customer request as either will work well...

In the front door We would have used a deep 6.5 inch mid range driver on a 6x8 adapter made of MDF and sealed with urethane paint.

Generally if you purchase the mid tweeter combo in pairs, the crossover will come with the pair and most of the crossovers provide switchable attenuation for the tweeter in the crossover...
These sets are usually far less efficient and would prefer a 30 to 40 watt discrete amplifier.

For the rear doors a decent 6.5 " coaxial speaker would have better sound qualty but would lose some of the lower frequency that the 5x8" speakers can produce.

This is a moot point if you are using a subwoofer in the system, then the 6.5s are definitely recommended.


Just some ramblings from an old fart

I have hertz energy 6.5 coaxial in my rear doors and still have the factory 5x7 components up front with 2 kicker 12's changing the fronts ti hertz 5.25 components soon and throwing in a 4 channel amp for those. But even with just the rear door speakers swapped out and running on deck power it's an awesome system. I would definitely look into hertz if you like sound quality they are great about 220-300 a set for the energy series but I'm not a big fan of their subs